PM-727V or PM-30MV

Not sure what's complicated about it. Maybe if someone's never done it?

Remove the handwheel/bearings/mount from one end of the table. Unscrew the acme screw out the other side (after unbolting the mounting plate of course). Loosen the gib, and slide the table off. Not sure of the weight of the table on a PM30, maybe you want someone helping with that part. :)
 
Removing the table is not that bad. I disassembled mine to move into the basement. This included head, column, table, saddle and base. All parts could then be hand carried by me into the basement. I'm 35 and 210lbs, but any parts could be easily moved down stairs by 1 person on a hand truck. The hardest part is reassembling the head, I fought with the air spring for a while. In hindsight I would have left it out. I found adds resistance lowering the head at the bottom of the travel as much as it helps at the top. Additionally, my stand is taller than the PM stand and even at 6'2" the head handwheel was a pain. I pulled the handwheel and chucked my 1/2" gear reduced corded drill on. I haven't used the mill much at all so I can say whether not having the head measurement dial will be an issue. I plan to use the quill with DRO for now. The drill sure makes raising and lowering the head nice.

I'm going to start another thread on the fuse rating/amperage issue.
 
I don’t know if it is the case with your mill, but I think a lot of 220v machines arrive without a plug so you can get what matches your outlet.
220V to a machine to meet code you would need a disconnect instead of an outlet. It's a good idea anyways as it provides a method of ensuring power is completely removed from the mill should you need to get inside of it for any reason. A fused disconnect from Lowes or Home Depot is only going to run you $30...
 
220V to a machine to meet code you would need a disconnect instead of an outlet. It's a good idea anyways as it provides a method of ensuring power is completely removed from the mill should you need to get inside of it for any reason. A fused disconnect from Lowes or Home Depot is only going to run you $30...
I don’t want to derail this too far, but can you expand on this? I’ve never heard that as code a requirement for 220v machines. I have a pm30mv on the way and I just installed a 50amp receptacle with matching 50amp plug (the machine only draws ~15 amps). Is that bad electrical practice?
 
I thought that was only for HVAC... and then, you only need a disconnect if your breaker is not within direct sight of your unit.

Than 50 amp drop will be WAY overkill, but if you decide to add accessories that run off the same feed you definitely wont run out of juice. This being said electricity will find the weak link if stuff goes south, so make sure your cord can handle what the breaker will support otherwise your cord becomes a big fusible link
 
Having a 50 AMP plug on a machine that draws 15 amps would not be wise. If you have a 50A plug with a 50A breaker, than all the wiring should be something like #6 and the breaker would do nothing to protect the machine. The plug size is specific to the breaker and wiring. There are some variations to breaker size relative to motors and VFD, but the breaker protects the wire. On a 50A circuit would need to take it to a sub panel or fused box that would have fusing/breaker appropriate for the machine load which in this case would probably be a 20A circuit. Normally one would use a 20A plug with a 20A breaker/fusing/wiring.

You also need a power disconnect at or close to the machine. I am not an electrician and not sure if this applies to residential setting vs. industrial, but what is posted is as follows: Article 430 includes the minimum requirements for electrical motors. Provisions for locations of motor disconnects are included in 430.102. There are two components of Section 430.102, the controller in 430.102(A) and the motor in 430.102(B). Section 430.102(A) requires a disconnect in sight from the controller and it must disconnect to be located in sight from the controller and it shall disconnect the controller from the source. The term in sight; by definition, it means that one component can be seen from the other and the distance between must not exceed 15 m (50 ft). The disconnecting means must be visible from the motor and equipment. One should always have a power disconnect switch near or at the machine, even if it has a plug. I seem to recall something elsewhere that the disconnected needed to be closer, this assume there is no factory power disconnect at the machine.
 
I don’t want to derail this too far, but can you expand on this? I’ve never heard that as code a requirement for 220v machines. I have a pm30mv on the way and I just installed a 50amp receptacle with matching 50amp plug (the machine only draws ~15 amps). Is that bad electrical practice?
Looks like several gents smarter than me already answered :) I was going to go dig thru the NFPA on this but it's been handled...
 
Having a 50 AMP plug on a machine that draws 15 amps would not be wise. If you have a 50A plug with a 50A breaker, than all the wiring should be something like #6 and the breaker would do nothing to protect the machine. The plug size is specific to the breaker and wiring. There are some variations to breaker size relative to motors and VFD, but the breaker protects the wire. On a 50A circuit would need to take it to a sub panel or fused box that would have fusing/breaker appropriate for the machine load which in this case would probably be a 20A circuit. Normally one would use a 20A plug with a 20A breaker/fusing/wiring.

You also need a power disconnect at or close to the machine. I am not an electrician and not sure if this applies to residential setting vs. industrial, but what is posted is as follows: Article 430 includes the minimum requirements for electrical motors. Provisions for locations of motor disconnects are included in 430.102. There are two components of Section 430.102, the controller in 430.102(A) and the motor in 430.102(B). Section 430.102(A) requires a disconnect in sight from the controller and it must disconnect to be located in sight from the controller and it shall disconnect the controller from the source. The term in sight; by definition, it means that one component can be seen from the other and the distance between must not exceed 15 m (50 ft). The disconnecting means must be visible from the motor and equipment. One should always have a power disconnect switch near or at the machine, even if it has a plug. I seem to recall something elsewhere that the disconnected needed to be closer, this assume there is no factory power disconnect at the machine.
I have 6/3 installed to the receptacle, hence the 50 amp plug. I did that in an attempt to future proof. I’ll need to investigate the power disconnect it seems.
 
I have 6/3 installed to the receptacle, hence the 50 amp plug. I did that in an attempt to future proof. I’ll need to investigate the power disconnect it seems.
I get the future proofing. Smart. You are going to be ok as long as you install a fused disconnect. Just make sure you install 20A fuses to protect your lathe :)
 
It is my understanding that a receptacle /plug at the machine counts as a disconnect. No other device needed. Correct?
Also, how can it be a problem with code to plug a lower amp draw device into a 50amp receptacle? Does NEC even comment on this? I can plug a 1 amp device into a 20 amp 120v receptacle all day long. Right now I am running a 50 amp receptacle with a lathe that only uses 8 amps. The device was not even plugged in for inspection. The electrician was aware of the "mismatch" and didn't say a word. I wanted the higher amp service for future devices. I do agree the power cord could be at risk, but I don't think NEC covers that?
I confess that I am only considering residential use. I don't know if industrial use would change this analysis.
Robert
 
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