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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

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jdedmon91

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As most of you know I do YouTube, like most of the machining creators we all watch Tublicain, Lyle is just as humble in private emails as our forum members, in fact I was helping a friend with a Lilse drill grinder he purchased that was missing a part, he had drawings but the part was a casting without the casting dimensions and I needed them to replicate the part. Since I knew Mr Pete shown one, I emailed him out of the blue to get the dimensions needed. He went out measured the part and emailed me back and was gracious about it. Because of that I decided to surprise him with a homemade speed handle, but Murphy, and cousin Bozo stepped in. A 5” Kurt has a different hex than a 6”. This video is machine the 6” one, next week I show the 5” and a Bridgeport vice wrench I also threw in because I felt bad. Enjoy


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GoceKU

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Today i did little cleaning of the big garage, there is stuff everywhere, i need a month to clean and organize everything, is so bad i don't even want to work on the little Niva because i can't find anything, so i getterd the tools in one corner, pick up the trash from the top, i filled up two big trash bags also i unwrapped the wheels for the little Niva, i installed the balance weights in their original places and stacked the wheels, in a clean and safe spot.
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tq60

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We made something new to us from junk.

We had a rechargeable air bed pump with dead battery that we could not give away.

Needed bellows for fire place.

What to do. ?

We hooked up a power supply to pump and it blows like mini-leaf blower so we order a new battery.

Makes a mess as is so found some aluminum tube and some brass fittings.

Threaded to end of tubing to thread on the fitting to make a nozzle.

Still too much air so made a cap from a pipe cap to. Hole it a bit and done.

Nor toss some logs on the coals and point this in and instant flames.



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rdean

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A friend of mine has a Shark CNC router and asked me to make him a better dust collection boot. The original boot was fixed to the Z axis and moved up and down when the cutting height changed. This meant the brush bristles had to be 3" long and flexible so they could reach the top of the material when starting and then squash down as the Z axis lowered. This at times would allow the bristles to be sucked up into the vacuum port of the boot and effectively close it off.

I had made a floating dust boot 8 years ago when I got my CNC router and it has worked very well to this day. The boot with short stiffer bristles always rides on the material surface as the router moves up and down during the program. It also gives some view of the process.

GEDC3761.JPG

The exhaust from the router motor is not blown directly into the boot so there is not a positive pressure in the boot to push the sawdust out past the bristles.

GEDC3757.JPG

Thanks for looking
Ray
 

mattthemuppet2

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nice! Funny too as my wife bought one of those at a garage sale years ago with a dead battery, so I replaced the old SLA battery with 8 li-ion batteries (2S4P so 8.4V). Now it will pump up a queen air mattres in about a minute and turn camp fires into raging infernoes :)
 

Shootymacshootface

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This kind of turned into 2 projects. My father in-law gave me several tools last year and one of them was this old 24" Starrett hight gage that was missing the scribe and scribe clamp. I made the clamp body and sharpened up a 1/4" hss turning tool for a scribe. I wanted the clamp screw to be similar to the original Starrett screws so I needed a knurling tool, and thats another project that I had on the back burner.

I got these 2 gizmos from a couple of automatic slack adjusters.
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Other than making the tool body, pin and a 5/8" hole in the gear thingy, cutting a usable piece off of the gear was risky for everything but an abrasive saw. I didn't want to heat up the part too much so I used my niagra 4"slitting saw, which worked very well.
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I made a test knurl on the opposite end of my drill rod. My first knurl ever. I wondered how deep it could go.
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I lightly knurled my part, then I turned the knurling wheel over to make a nice diamond pattern. That's when I found out that it doesn't work like that. I was a little surprised. It turned out like this though.
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It fit perfectly! Unless you want to measure all the way down to 1".
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But the good news is my project told me exactly how much to remove off the bottom of the clamp.
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Funny how things turn out sometimes.
 

Shootymacshootface

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I picked these jerry cans up monday that I found on Craigslist.
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Two of them had rusty innards, so I put a few handfuls of nuts and bolts in them. They each had a turn riding the rotary tumbler.
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They cleaned up nicely.
I got them for filling my torpedo heater with diesel.
 

Superburban

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With those GI cans, if you decide to coat the inside with anything, be aware that there is a vent tube inside that runs from the cap area, across the top. If that gets plugged, then the fuel will gurgle out, with having to let air in, through the filler tube. If you have one of the screw in filler spouts, watch that the gasket does not cover the vent hole.

Also, some older, or aftermarket gaskets will swell up in contact with diesel.
 

jdedmon91

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I screwed up twice, on in the earlier post about the vice handle video. I didn’t realize that the hex size was different between the 5” & 6” Kurt vices, Basically I sent Mr Pete the wrong size wrench.
So I made another one, but my spell check got me on the title and description. I’m not much of a machinist bit even worse proof reader.

Here is the companion video



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Shootymacshootface

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With those GI cans, if you decide to coat the inside with anything, be aware that there is a vent tube inside that runs from the cap area, across the top. If that gets plugged, then the fuel will gurgle out, with having to let air in, through the filler tube. If you have one of the screw in filler spouts, watch that the gasket does not cover the vent hole.

Also, some older, or aftermarket gaskets will swell up in contact with diesel.
Thanks Superburban, i have an original flexible metal spout that you just insert into the hole pull a lever to make it expand and pour. I couldn't stand the thougt of buying new cans with that safety crap all over them.
 

Shootymacshootface

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Tip: To reduce the chances of having Gerry cans stolen, I grab a paint pen and write "Mexico gas 81 octane" or "30:1 mix" on them. Working so far.

(from mobile)
Thats funny.
The valuable part is the Gerry can not the contents. I have 2 very old surplus cans that I have been using for diesel. When I decided that I wanted at least 2 more I looked on ebay and was shocked to see the prices. So, I checked Craigslist and found these 3 for $40 and had to drive 40 miles. I'm pretty sure these are NATO surplus from the 80's.
 

GoceKU

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Thats funny.
The valuable part is the Gerry can not the contents. I have 2 very old surplus cans that I have been using for diesel. When I decided that I wanted at least 2 more I looked on ebay and was shocked to see the prices. So, I checked Craigslist and found these 3 for $40 and had to drive 40 miles. I'm pretty sure these are NATO surplus from the 80's.
I think they come on some of the military vehicles for fuel and water, i have two identical cans in military green, they have a small steel vent tube going from the outlet on the inside, and the inside white coating always flakes off, i don't use my that often anymore, they are too heavy and too bulky and only hold 20 liters.
 

GoceKU

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Today i managed to get home before midnight so i made the effort to do some work on the little Lada, started by opening the new can of plastic body filler, mixing it and applying some more on the passenger quarter and rear panel, then i moved on the the machine shop, i took the the original alternator/ dynamo and the newer bosch unit, the mounts and pulleys are very different, after measuring them, i think it should fit, but i can't just swap the pulley, they have a different size shaft and one has a key, at first i thought about machining a new pulley from scratch but i don't have a scrap piece of aluminium or steel i that size so i left it so i can search to a piece or a pulley tomorrow, then i started on the radiator repair for the same project, it has a mest up out let, i made a new nipple from some thick wall pipe on which i threaded some threads but the fit was too tight, i'll need to start on it from scratch again.
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Shootymacshootface

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GoceKU, I don't think that you have to start from scratch with those fittings. You could line them back up on your lathe and continue cutting.
 

GoceKU

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I may have forgotten to say that the wall thickness on the pipe i'm using wasn't consistent, and i broke thru, a simless pipe may be better to use in this application but i don't have a piece in this size, i'll measure the piece i'm using next more carefully to have to have enough material to make it fit.
 

Superburban

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Thats funny.
The valuable part is the Gerry can not the contents. I have 2 very old surplus cans that I have been using for diesel. When I decided that I wanted at least 2 more I looked on ebay and was shocked to see the prices. So, I checked Craigslist and found these 3 for $40 and had to drive 40 miles. I'm pretty sure these are NATO surplus from the 80's.
Most real ones have the maker, and date stamped into the bottom.

My diesel ones, I always leave a cup or more in the can, and shake it good, hoping to coat the inside, and keep the rust away. The gas ones, if not going to refill soon, I will add a 1/2 cup of oil or diesel, and shake it up also.
 

dave_r_1

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Did a spot of machining today.

The pin for the angle mechanism of my Power Brush got bent, and it's about $75 or so to order a new one in, so instead I made one from a 9/16" steel rod I have.

IMG_1333.jpg

I actually made 3. First one, I made a mistake while trying to creep up on the final size of .375", and made it too small, so it went into the scrap bin straightaway.

Next up is the bottom part, with the broken off tap next to it, the other end of the tap is in the end of the part (the end is threaded, for the pull-cable to screw in). Stupid error, was almost done, and tried going an extra revolution of cutting new threads before removing/cleaning the tap, and snap.

Middle part is the final piece, after going to the store for another tap.

Top part is the original piece, the end was bent over a bit more before I hammered it mostly flat again. It's a little weaker than it has to be, as they drilled & threaded the entire length of the part, whereas my replacement piece is only threaded to where the "pin" begins (the right side is the pin, the left side has a spring that goes over it, pushing the pin in, and a threaded rod w cable goes in the left end, enabling me to pull it up to change the angle of the brush).
 

mmcmdl

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Had my regular duty of removing broken Grade 8 bolts in hardened dies . So , got a broken bolt , a broken tap , and I just added some carbide in there to boot ! :applause 2: Next stop , the EDM . ( I don't own any unobtainium end mills ):grin:
 

GoceKU

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Yesterday we got lots of wet snow and today temperatures dropped deep in negative, so after spending half my day shoveling snow i did some work in my machine shop, first i made me a tool for shaping, i welded on a broken piece of HSS on a rod, then a clean it up and sharpened it on my bench grinder, i chuck up the pulley in my lathe and put the tool in the tool holder and used my rapid feed to move the tool in and out as a shaper. I did manage to make the key channel, the crooked hole i drilled made to top of it wide but should work just fine, then i started on a another project, i made me a small chuck key, i turn down the end for the square, supported it with my live chuck and parted it, then i cross drill it and pressed in a small rod, and finally i ground a square on the end, a also made couple of odd sized nuts and turn down the end of a broken socket extension so i can use it in a drill.
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