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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

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dave_r_1

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Back to using my "regular" machining tools (angle grinder, drill/press, welder), to make a new bracket to hold my taillights (it's a flatbed truck). The original one rusted off right along the sole weld, and the lights were just hanging by some bailing wire I wrapped around it to hold it in place.

IMG_1335.jpg

Original bracket at top, and new one at bottom. Should have done this when I changed the taillight's from the oem plastic/rubber/incandescent bulb setup to a metal box with 3 6' oval led lights, as it weighs significantly more than the original unit. The new bracket is overkill, made from 1/8" sheet metal.

Unfortunately, I believe I let out some of the magic smoke from the drill I used to cut the hole for the wiring harness to go through. I guess I demanded it produce a little too much torque at low rpms with the hole saw I used.
 

Shootymacshootface

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This weekend I started a project that was way overdue. After 20 years of not having enough time for myself to do things the way that I want to do them, I am finally at a place where I can work at my own pace and not be surrounded by useless clutter from the past. How I finally arrived here I could have never guessed. Divorced my first wife of 17 years. Get custody of my 3 kids, beutifull twin girls and my son . Get remarried to the girl of my dreams! The kids grow up. Twin girls move out (well one was asked to leave). My son who is an excellent machinist still lives at home and has grown frustrated with the lack of space for his projects and parts for his many toys, has rented garage space elsewhere.
So my project is to add an 8' long bench in my machining area but to do that I had to dismantle a storage area in my basement first so that I could move shelving that was on the wall in the pictures. Get the drawer units out of the basement to make the benches. The best part is all the stuff that is getting thrown away! Anyway its late and thats enough for tonight.154857339532744ee3ff5b8393f3ff27337d5d8669d653d569f810e8654fdfcd965ba1f877a015c3047db7cea4cdab...jpg1548579504300ede93edbd470c1bea3227e400ae01b3264b99eb8c5af5597cb06989413e0ccaf76c9ec6c5d0d9775d...jpg
There is goingto be a 1 1/2" thick top, a couple of bult in shelves and a large back board.
 

GoceKU

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Unfortunately, I believe I let out some of the magic smoke from the drill I used to cut the hole for the wiring harness to go through. I guess I demanded it produce a little too much torque at low rpms with the hole saw I used.
Who let the smoke out, The saying here is: You are not trying hard enough if you don't break something, Little smoke is nothing, if you talking about a good quality cordless drill, if it still works don't worry about is at all. At work a guy managed to fill an entire bus interior full of white smoke from a 18v makita cordless drill trying to drill thru a 1/2 inch stainless plate with 4" hole saw, and the drill still is working.
 

Diecutter

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Made this slitting saw arbor from a piece of round L-6 die steel that was laying around. I have had a pile of 3" dia. slitting saw blades for over 60 years and decided to put them to use since I just finished building my mill. They are Cutting Tool Co. brand new old stock with 1" center holesslitter.JPGcutters.JPGexpld.JPG, and were old when I got them in the 1950's.
 

Dhector

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This didnt happen today only, but I finished it today, minus some rust preventative measures. Ideas on prevention are very welcome and appreciated. Anyway, short reason for building this. I found blueprints for it. Seriously that's why I built it. I found blueprints and since it isn't dice or a burr puzzle 305, I wanted to try something above my skill level to see if I could do it. It isn't perfect, but I'm happy with it. I may edit this post tomorrow because I'm in my phone and it's easier to post with a PC. This project started about a month ago give or take. Did it in my free time but it took a LOT of free time!!!!

I bought torch cut metal( on 3 sides) and started here!
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Did a t slot.
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Indicated the plate to the bottom of the t slot, and faced it off. This is after I tried to make the face flat on the mill. I could feel it wasn't flat with my finger. Very small but not flat either. Was hoping the lathe would make it flatter and I think it did. No surface plate so I cant tell you for sure, but it feels better!!!!
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This was a bit nerve racking on the base plate but it seemed to work out ok.
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This is quite a way through the process. I screwed up the dowel pins when drilling by using a drill bit too big. And it was a harbor freight so throw that in the mix too. Never reamed metal ever in my life so I adjusted the blueprints I found and made it work. One cool thing to me is the holes for the dowel pins fit(in my opinion) very well with everything being machined separate. Other than length on the dowel pins, they all fit correctly during assembly. Shocked myself on that one. I did however somehow get a bolt hole off a little and had to modify one hole on one hinge plate a little. 7 out of 8 fit very well. In very pleased with that and the dowels fitting too.
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From here on out the pics show the finished product. I made everything, minus 12 socket head screws, and 2 snap rings.
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While I was doing this and reading the blueprints, etc. I did find some math errors in the process. The bad thing is the errors came from me!!! Still a lot of work(for me) but a great time was had!!!!!
 

Dhector

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Great job Dhector.
Where did you find the Blueprints?

Thanks. It was fun. I was really happy the dowel pins and the pivot shaft lined up really well for my experience level. Little snug on a couple blocks, but the dowels didnt need modified to fit. I think I could have done some things different that would have saved a LOT of time and provide a better finish in some areas but thats ok. It seems like it will be functional.

As far as the blueprints, not sure how I found them and they dont seem to be copyrighted so here is the link. If its an issue maybe a mod can delete the link.

http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/11/newsletter1106.pdf#page=4
 

Dhector

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If it ever warms back up around here, I might get around to building this. Simple Ball Turner. Found it on Pint@**&%

View attachment 286179

Looks like a fun project. Be sure to post pics!!!!!!! Id make one, but I found one for my lathe a while ago and bought it. I think I got it for a good price, otherwise that would be my next project!!!
 

GoceKU

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Tonight i decided i need to work on something because nothing's getting done by itself, so one of the jobs on the lathe that i put off was making couple of wheel nuts for the little Niva, they are fine thread so i can't easily found them, so i started with some key stock, drill threaded it, cut a 60 degrees chamfer and parted it off i did this couple more times and was done. Then i chamfer the edges and did little debering on my bench grinder.
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Boswell

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GoceKU, Good to see you back and making progress
 

SubtleHustle

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Well, today I had to make a miniature tap wrench, to hold a m2.5 x .45 tap. I need this small tap, in order to make the screw hole for the carbide insert, for my ball turner I am just finishing up... I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little nervous about breaking of the tap in the tool holder. I'll keep you all posted!
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This is the link to my ball turner project, if anyone interested...
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/radius-ball-turner.76367/
 

Z2V

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Roadie, I think you need a hole in the top plate to access the set screw for the bit,
It looks like the set screw can be accessed be rotating the tool holder past the area of the top plate if I’m seeing correctly
 

dave_r_1

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Repaired my work-stool, the casters were failing (bearings were shot and one of them, the threads on it's pin stripped), and several of the welds for the center mount in the base (that the cylinder for the seat fits in) had broken, so the seat was leaning over and was fairly dangerous to continue to use. Straightened the mount out, then welded it up all the way around (vs the previous 4 short beads):
IMG_1339.jpg

Started making parts for my new project, mating a Bercomac Brush to a Husqvarna hydro walkbehind mower. First are the mounting plates that bolt to the drive unit in place of the mower. Also got some bushings, cut them in half, then welded some washers to them to make flanged bushings for the front caster wheels (for a total parts cost of $10, oem ones are about $10 each and take a couple weeks to come in). I may turn them down on the lathe so the flange is the same diameter as the tube they will be installed in.

IMG_1340.jpg
 

GoceKU

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Today i did some emergency machining, i need to check the rpms on a diesel engine, some time back i bought this 40-50 000 rpm mechanical meter, it is a good quality tool but it did not come with any attachments so i had to made one, i started with a 8 mm piece of C 45 in my lathe, centre drill it, then drill it with 4,2 mm drill, then i drill it with 4,5 mm drill about 20 mm deep and follow that with 5 mm drill for the first 10 mm then i traded it for M6 which was the same thread as the door stop i plan to use for the tip. The door stop is flat top which will be hard to centre so i put it in my cordless drill and grounded it against the bench grinder and cut a 60 degree taper, i did check it against my lathe and is accurate then i took it to check that diesel engine and it work out perfect.
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Franko

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It looks like the set screw can be accessed be rotating the tool holder past the area of the top plate if I’m seeing correctly
You are correct, A2V. I didn't see that.
 
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GoceKU

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Today i got back home pass midnight but i made the effort to make the final pieces so i can get the valves adjusted on the little Niva, i made the main plate for holding the dial indicator some time back, but i need couple of special fasteners to clamp it down to the cam cage. I started with 12mm piece of 4140 steel, which is overkill but is was only peace i had in that size, i used my die holder to thread the outside with M12x1,25 then i drill the inside and threaded bit for M8. Then i cut a flat spot at the end so i can cut a slot to use a screwdriver to screw them down, i made 3 pieces like this, then i started on the nuts, i drill the threaded a piece of 28mm cold rolled with M12x1,25. Then i used my fine knurling tool to make the nuts easy go turn, and parted them off, and finally i face them on my bench grinder this took couple of hours but i'm happy how they turn out.
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GoceKU

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Wow, wow my head's spinning now, i just went to test fit the valve lash testing plat on the Little Niva, and tested 2 valves and this even surprised me, factory clarence ia 0,15mm on all valves, i got 0,7mm on one and 1,05 mm on the other, now my thought is how is this engine running, and it showed factory compression on all cylinders and how worn is the cam and lifters to have almost 1 millimeter more clearance, any thoughts ?
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wcunning

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I made a little rack for my high tension hacksaws to sit in the top of a Kennedy 520 yesterday. It's just a piece of wire closet shelf from Home Depot (left over from putting shelves up in the house) bent on my 24" Di-Acro finger brake.

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All of my hacksaw blades reside in one of the drawers below.

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RJSakowski

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Wow, wow my head's spinning now, i just went to test fit the valve lash testing plat on the Little Niva, and tested 2 valves and this even surprised me, factory clarence ia 0,15mm on all valves, i got 0,7mm on one and 1,05 mm on the other, now my thought is how is this engine running, and it showed factory compression on all cylinders and how worn is the cam and lifters to have almost 1 millimeter more clearance, any thoughts ?
View attachment 286443View attachment 286442
Are they lifters or tappets? Lifters here are hydraulic and are self adjusting over a limited range. Tappets need to be set at the proper clearance. An engine with 1mm clearance on tappets should still run but it would be noisy.
 

pontiac428

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It's an overhead cam. If you have a larger gap than spec, you will still have compression, but you will lose power from decreased lift and decreased duration. Engine will sound loud in the top end, and it is hard on your components. Usually, the valvetrain parts are very hard steel, and not prone to wear. Who knows what the Soviets were doing with their production and design... just look for damage on the cam lobes, lash screws, rockers, and valve stems.
 

FOMOGO

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Wow, wow my head's spinning now, i just went to test fit the valve lash testing plat on the Little Niva, and tested 2 valves and this even surprised me, factory clarence ia 0,15mm on all valves, i got 0,7mm on one and 1,05 mm on the other, now my thought is how is this engine running, and it showed factory compression on all cylinders and how worn is the cam and lifters to have almost 1 millimeter more clearance, any thoughts ?
Take a close look at the threads on the adjusters and lock nuts to make sure they aren't stripped or galled. Mike
 

GoceKU

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It's an overhead cam. If you have a larger gap than spec, you will still have compression, but you will lose power from decreased lift and decreased duration. Engine will sound loud in the top end, and it is hard on your components. Usually, the valvetrain parts are very hard steel, and not prone to wear. Who knows what the Soviets were doing with their production and design... just look for damage on the cam lobes, lash screws, rockers, and valve stems.
The engine is overhead single cam 8 valve inline 4 cylinder, with manually adjusted valves, which should be adjusted every 10 000 km, and the adjusters look like they have never been touched, there was little noise from them and from the timing chain, but the engine starts very easy and runs smooth. This morning i talked to a old mechanic when i told him i found 1 mm excessive valve lash on manually adjustable valves, he started to cringe, like is something very bad, then he asked on what vehicle i told him a Lada Niva, his face started to smile then he said if it was anything else then a lada or an old fiat you should worry but that is nothing for those engines, just adjust them and keep on driving it those russian engines are durable as stone.
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