POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

savarin

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From the labours of this build I believe your middle name is Hercules.
I think a video as well as pics of the finished machine are required.
 

GoceKU

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The end is in sight, but i have two jobs i'm really not looking forward to doing, one is the new exhaust, and the second is the transfer case mounts, the second one will be really difficult, partly because of my injured back and double difficult because of the welded floor, there is nothing factory to take measurements from to locate the transfer case and the gearbox. But i really appreciate the kind words and i'll share my explorations with the little Niva.
 

GoceKU

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Today i spend couple of hours in the big garage, first i tried to loosen the rusty lathe chuck, i've been soaking it in penetrating oil for a week but won't move, so i decided to unscrew the three bolts at the back, one unscrew with some effort, the other two i had to heat them and then they unscrew, tried removing the backplate but it is also stuck, i soaking it in penetrating oil and left it overnight.
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kd4gij

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drilled 3/8 pilot to clear the web, 4" deep 2.1/2" hss bit 250rpm. final bore 4 3/4" dia. the part before this was drilled with the 2 1/2"bit and board 10 3/4" dia. 5" deep. Want to know why they call it boring. :barbershop:
 

GoceKU

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Today was a long day in the garage working on the Little Niva. Today's job i've dreaded doing since i've bought this little 4x4. Making new mounts to mount the transfer case, this is e know week point on the niva's as from the factory it is bolted thru the thin metal floor with 4, M8 bolts. Also the mounts are aluminium and thin so they also are know to brake. I started with a wooden chair to hold the transfer case when i was removing the mounts, on the passenger side it was rusted in place, i had to cut in couple pieces and after 3 hours i managed to remove it without damaging the transfer case, on the drivers side there was a homemade mount that someone made it from a tube and pipe. Then the chair broke from the weight, so i put a hydraulic jack to hold it up but it moves in all directions so i added one more jack and spent next 2 hours making it level, but in my measuring i found out the gearbox is lower then factory and seen the drivers side double floor is sagging, so i put a 10 ton jack plus a sledge hammer made it straight, then i drilled and bolted it to the new floor i used a big spreader plate and big washers to secure it, then things started to line up, i did manage to place the transfer case where the factory manuel says it needs to be, also all the levers inside the cabin are in the middle of there holes, i also made and bolted new sleeves for the mounts. Today was a hard and painful day, all the bending and working on my injured back really took a toll on me.
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jdedmon91

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I’ve spent a few days working on enhancements on my bench grinders. One thing that bugs me is needing to make adjustments on the rests and having to go to the tool box and get wrenches. In this video I show how I modified my Craftsman bench grinder.


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Franko

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My 7" x 12" horizontal band saw started squeaking a few weeks ago.
I removed the belt and turned it on to determine it was the motor bearings.

The local electric motor fixer company wanted $150 to replace the bearings.
I don't know that something else might have been damaged so I determined to get a replacement motor.

After some Google shopping I found a 2hp motor at Harbor Freight for $165. It replaces the 1.5hp motor the saw came with.
The alternative was to spend near $400 everywhere else.
Nothing I found was an exact match.

The new motor has a 7/8" shaft. The pulleys on the band saw have a 3/4" bore.
So, I bored out the motor pulley to 7/8".

After boring, I had to broach the keyway some.
I purchased a broach set about 12 years ago. This is the first time I've used it.

IMG_1288.JPG IMG_1287.JPG

Unfortunately, the shaft on the new motor is about one pully shorter than on the original motor.
I think I can live with it. I'll just lose one speed setting.
I managed to align the pulleys and still have purchase on the key with the set screw.
Wiring the motor was a bit problematic. The wiring diagram was confusing, mentioning lugs, but there weren't any.
It was just wires that had to be coupled. I eventually figured it out.

Here it is, all hooked up and it seems to be working ok.

IMG_1290.JPG
 

pdentrem

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I have 3 routers but one has a problem. The inlay bushing will not fit one of them. So today’s project is to bore the recess and open up the opening for the bushing to fit. I need to do this as the router is my smallest and I want to use it on some doors.
So 45 minutes later job done.

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BGHansen

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POTD was making a support strap for the support leg of our log splitter. I'm known at work for a few sayings, "Hope is a poor problem solving strategy", "Come on guys, how tough is this to figure out, it's only two parts going together" and "if you have to beat on the parts to get them together, step back and see what's wrong first". Well, didn't follow my own advise. Bought a new log splitter a few weeks ago. Tried to flip down the support leg but it wasn't budging. So, I gave it a kick to flip it down. Much to my chagrin, there "was" a rubber strap for holding the leg up while transporting the splitter. Fixed it today. Truly an "ugly but effective" fix, but it works.

The original strap was molded rubber or EPDM. I have some 1/8" thick rubber sheet stock, cut a couple of pieces to size on my Tennsmith shear. Then punched holes/slots with a Roper Whitney #218 punch press. Ran a screw/nut through the bottom end to act as a grip for pulling the strap off the support leg. Yeah, it's ugly but does work.

Thanks for looking, Bruce


Oops, broke this hold-up strap on the support leg of our log splitter.
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Cut some 1/8" rubber stock to size on my sheet metal shear
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Punched a number of 1/4" holes with my RW #218 press
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Used a rectangular punch to make an elongated slot
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Finished straps screwed together. Screw/nut at the bottom end act as a handle
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New support strap in place
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GoceKU

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Yesterday i tried to work thru the back pain but few hours in my back said NO, so i had to stop just as i mounted the two mounts and one crossmember bar, this will definitely slow me down, i don't have a car lift and the car creeper i made broke, so i'm left working on the floor. I'll try to finish some things standing up till my injured back recovers.
IMG_20190606_211606.jpg
 

Cadillac

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Made myself some dust guards for the surface grinder. I have the coolant system hooked up have been waiting to get these guards installed to test the coolant system. I plan on leaving th lower halves permanently installed and have upper pieces that can be clipped on for the taller stuff. Guards are made out of .060 stainless that actually came from the side of the barbecue I threw out this spring.
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mattthemuppet2

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Got another job off the list - a handle for the fine downfeed handwheel on my mill. Made out of various pieces of scrap including part of a motor shaft (lovely steel) and the bushings from a pair of trunk lift struts :)

Checking for fit


the various parts


fitted


works very nicely and the end has a rounded edge for when I hit my head on it (not if, when).
 

GoceKU

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Today after work i layed down to rest my hurting back, half an hour in a friend calls me,- What are you doing. I'm laying down resting,- What happened in which hospital are you in? What, nothing happend i'm at home. -You laying in bed during the day, i need to come over to take a picture that is miracle. Whatever, few hours in i got bored so i went in the big garage and tackle the passenger side upper bump stop for the Little Niva. I made one couple of weeks back for the other side so i had the measurements and marked and cut the pieces. Then i clapped them one by one in the vice and using a sludge hammer bend them in shape, also you can see the new body filler i bought today for the Little Niva, i went with the body pro F 211.
IMG_20190607_202447.jpgIMG_20190607_211604.jpg
 

jdedmon91

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I’ve been working on a small generator I own. Replaced the carburetor and the air filter was also trash. I wanted to adapt a air filter that I used back when I was kart racing to the generator. I machined up the adapter in the photo to fit the filter to the generator.



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dave_r_1

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Did a baby machining project after work today. The jack (a 5K lb weld-on jack) on my trailer wasn't winding smoothly anymore, making grinding noises, so about a month ago, I disassembled it and found that the bearing for it was missing any sign of lubrication, was thoroughly rusted, and the cage for the ball bearings had mostly worn away. I cleaned it, packed it with grease, and reinstalled it (and it was a little better), so I could continue to use it while looking for a replacement bearing.

Naturally, Princess Auto (where I bought the jack) has no parts for it, you're supposed to just buy a new one, but a local trailer shop had a couple of jack bearings in stock, I picked the one closest to the one in my jack (the primary measurements for me were the diameter of the screw shaft and the thickness of the bearing).

It's not as thick as the original bearing, and the center is too large in diameter, so I found a 5/8" washer to get the overall thickness close, and made a spacer for the center of the bearing so it stays centered on the jack's screw shaft (this spacer is the actual machining content).

Pictured is the new bearing, with the spacer and washer, along with the original bearing. $9 + some machining/assembly time vs $70 + cutting off old jack & welding on new jack...
IMG_1436.jpg
 

GoceKU

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Today i decided to get something done in the big garage, so i brought all the tools near the passenger tire, all the parts, like the brackets, brake calliper, set down and put in couple of hours of work, to button up everything i started with setting up wheel bearing preload, with my torque wrench and angle gauge, then i drill and thread the upper and steering joints and installed zerk fittings and greased them up. Then i bolted the brake calliper to the hub and fit the rubber lines, but the steel lines are a real mess, i'll try to find new ones, but here no one's replacing brake line so i may have to visit a junkyard or order a flaring tool on ebay to make my own lines, then i open a package of seam sealer and sealer all the welds and seams that has gaps or small holes. The new strategy of putting everything near me then starting to work, work out well and my injured back seams to be getting better.
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mmcmdl

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I shoe horned the Bridgeport , a Micromaster SG , the Clausing lathe and an Atlas lathe into the garage over the past 2 days , along with four 4 wheelers , the Kubota , 2 zero turns and a multitude of other junk . It was quite a task to just get things to fit .
 

hman

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Naw ... the old fashioned kind - injection molded. By the way ... that's the official "mascot" of my shop. My official motto (probably only intelligible to folks who are both Mac users and chemists) is:
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BGHansen

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Quick POTD for my wife. She has a solar-charged LED motion-sensor flood light on the pole barn at her garden entrance. Well, the aiming post for the light broke from the wind(?). Figured aluminum would make a good replacement.


Really like these LED motion-sensor floods. Have them in the storage section of our barn for no-hands lighting
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Support/aiming post broke
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Chunk 'o 1" aluminum for a replacement
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Challenge would be duplicating the ribs which engage a splined mating piece to keep the lamp from rotating.
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Post has an M4x0.7 nut set inside a hex-hole for attaching to the light bracket
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Only challenge was the plastic shaft had three ribs that engage with a mating bracket with grooves to prevent the shaft from turning. I figured the easiest way to replicate that was to do a straight knurl on a couple of areas of the aluminum shaft. The plastic ribs stick up about 0.008", but how much for straight knurling on aluminum? Turned the aluminum blank to a known oversized diameter, mic'd and knurled with a Rockwin hand-knurler. Ended up increasing the diameter by 0.005".

Turned the shaft to final diameter and hand knurled a couple of bands.


Turn to a diameter for development of how much diameter increase would come from knurling
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Hand knurled and mic'd the shaft at ~0.005" larger. Not quite the 0.008" of the plastic but "good enough"
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Turn to final diameter and chamfer the end
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Knurled the shaft in 2 areas
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Next step was to mount the piece in a 5-C collet and square collet block and go to the mill. Found the edge of the shaft's shoulder with a laser center finder. Center in Y was easy as my mill vise fixed jaw is always at 0.000". I paint marker the width of my square collet block for easy setting to the center of the work (0.864" in this case). Milled away half of the surface (hole at the end was a leftover from a previous job).

Spot and tap drilled for an M4x0.7 thread. Tapped manually on the mill with a tap wrench with a slip-fit shaft for alignment.


Found the shoulder of the shaft with a laser center/edge finder
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Milled away half of the top of the shaft
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Spot and tap drill the mounting screw hole
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Tapped the M4x0.7
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Finished part and original broken shaft
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Screwed the replacement shaft to the light and remounted to the wall bracket. Works and my wife is a happy woman again!

Thanks for looking,

Bruce


replacement shaft in place
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rabbits beware . . .
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GoceKU

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Today supposed to be a hour or two just to replace couple of hard lines, but it turns out to be a full 8 hours of taking apart the entire braking system, started with removing the metal lines from the passenger side, someone had too long of a line so he just left it all kinked, i could not find all new so i bought some and reused some of another car, then i started on braking lose all the bleeders, the little niva has 6 of them because it uses a 3 piston front caliper, this task was really hard, the bleeders are very small and all rusted and stripped, so after i loosen all of them i changed couple of them. After this i called a family member to help with the bleeding, the fronts bleed well but i wasn't getting any fluid from the back ones, so i started to chase the problem replaced one more kinked line and run wire thru the bass T for both wheels and still no fluid. i suspected the rubber line, i had a spare so i changed it, and still no fluid, i know i had fluid in front of the rubber line, but nothing after and the line is new, so i started to look at the metal line and i found a nail in it. A frickin nail, that some mechanic probably used to stop the brake fluid from leaking when doing repair to the rear axle, doing this ment hours on the ground rolling on my injured back, not fun and a bit painfull. The braking system in now bleed but i'm still not getting any braking on the drivers rear, the handbrake works but the cylinder looks like has frozen, that nail may have been inthere for 20 years or more.
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