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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

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stioc

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For the past two years whenever I've used the tail stock I'm reminded that I need to find a quicker way to lock it vs. using the wrench on the nut. I passingly looked at the Kipp style levers etc but didn't think those would've worked due to the clearance.

Just drilled and tapped the nut with an M4 tap. Then found an old Clevis pin, turned it down at the end and threaded it with an M4 die to make the lever, then some blue loctite. It works sooo much better than reaching for the 14mm wrench every time.

 

kvt

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Well finally got a chance to get back in the shop and do a little machining. Also did my first edited Vid.
may see if I can make a few of the rebuild as it goes.
 

Cadillac STS

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Made an extension for an outdoor faucet that was in an inconvenient place.

Got tired of walking on rocks in bare feet to just turn the water on or off.

I made an extension to the front of the porch that would allow easy on and off. Needed a substantial heft to it to be sure to allow full shut off. Also did not want to put any force on the actual handle to not damage it.

I went with a love joy stainless steel universal joint, most expensive part at $60 but needed all weather use and no rust.

Was going to make up a new handle using the current one as a pattern but ended up buying a 3.5 inch piece of 3.5 inch round stock and hollowing out one side to go over the current handle held on with 4 1/2-13 stainless set screws. Other end turned to one inch for the U joint side. Work done on my Warner Swasey turret lathe. Built in 1928, still works in all respects.

Then a solid one inch aluminum bar to a 5 inch hand wheel I got on eBay. Expanded the square hole on the Bridgeport and it tapped on very tight, likely won’t need a screw and washer to hold it on.

Mount up part made of 2 inch aluminum square. Stainless eye bolts that just fit the one inch shaft. I made those collars and nylon bushings on my Wabeco 10X22 lathe.

It feels very stout and doesn’t put pressure on the faucet 59196048-CDBB-4E2B-8E00-06C0B5B43E01.jpeg535FC5D3-F53F-44EB-AEDD-3B97911C3267.jpeg8306DA81-80BB-4030-A376-EF9A4562DD8C.jpeg
 

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Cadillac STS

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For the past two years whenever I've used the tail stock I'm reminded that I need to find a quicker way to lock it vs. using the wrench on the nut. I passingly looked at the Kipp style levers etc but didn't think those would've worked due to the clearance.

Just drilled and tapped the nut with an M4 tap. Then found an old Clevis pin, turned it down at the end and threaded it with an M4 die to make the lever, then some blue loctite. It works sooo much better than reaching for the 14mm wrench every time.

Great idea. If it too long of a stroke to lock it you might get shorter stroke replacing the screw with one with a coarser tread. I did same thing. Why reach for a wrench every time when a lever will do.
 

GoceKU

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Made an extension for an outdoor faucet that was in an inconvenient place.

Got tired of walking on rocks in bare feet to just turn the water on or off.
Nicely executed, this looks like something i would done few years ago, nowadays i would just screw in a electric valve from a washing machine and wired in a switch.
 

stioc

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Great idea. If it too long of a stroke to lock it you might get shorter stroke replacing the screw with one with a coarser tread. I did same thing. Why reach for a wrench every time when a lever will do.
Thanks. I like it so much that I want to figure out how to convert my carriage and compound locks to levers vs. using those darned allen keys. I think one of them is an M6 socket head and the other is a 10-32 internal socket head.
 

Cadillac STS

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Thanks. I like it so much that I want to figure out how to convert my carriage and compound locks to levers vs. using those darned allen keys. I think one of them is an M6 socket head and the other is a 10-32 internal socket head.
Here you go. These levers are made to be adjustable as far as where the lever is when tight. Can replace the socket head bolt and use this to lock the cross. You push the lever straight down to adjust where you want it to engage.

 

Cadillac STS

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Nicely executed, this looks like something i would done few years ago, nowadays i would just screw in a electric valve from a washing machine and wired in a switch.
Good idea thanks. There is even electricity right there for a fountain. That is the orange cord in the pic.
 

hman

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Thanks. I like it so much that I want to figure out how to convert my carriage and compound locks to levers vs. using those darned allen keys. I think one of them is an M6 socket head and the other is a 10-32 internal socket head.
I used to own a 9x20. Bought a bicycle seat quick release lever (M6) for the carriage lock. Here are a couple of current offerings:

As for the tailstock, see my post #2 in:
 

savarin

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I use that seat post lever on my cross slide as well, works a treat.
I wanted to make one of those cam lock tail stock levers but as there is a shelf directly over my lathe I just hang the spanner on a hook, not as cool as the cam lock but was easier to make :laughing:
 

GoceKU

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I've been busy last few days, but i did do some work on the Little Niva, i clean and sended few places on it, i want to put it in primer so it can shrink. I put 2 more coats on the rear trunk, also the roof piece and the front panel. My back is starting to be better i my try to finish the work underneath, its been on jack stands way too long.
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hman

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You do nice body work! All those primered surfaces look great.
 

GoceKU

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You do nice body work! All those primered surfaces look great.
I'm not so sure, i do what you can call mechanics body work, i put too much plastic filler on and send too much off, for this off road vehicle should be good enough.
 

Superburban

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I'm not so sure, i do what you can call mechanics body work, i put too much plastic filler on and send too much off, for this off road vehicle should be good enough.
You probably know this, but if you get the grater style files, you can easily take excess filler off, when it is in the middle of the hardening process. I think it is about 20 mins, or so. You get the timing right, and it will easily take the filler off, and not clog the holes. Timed, and done right, it can save lots of sanding time.
 

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mmcmdl

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Here you go. These levers are made to be adjustable as far as where the lever is when tight. Can replace the socket head bolt and use this to lock the cross. You push the lever straight down to adjust where you want it to engage.


I hate those darn things . Constantly stripping the heads in here at work and I have to replace them daily . I would use a nut and pass thru ratchet FWIW .
 

GoceKU

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Today i tackle the Little Niva's LPG (propane) conversion. The logical place to start is the gas bottle, propane tank i have many tanks in all different sizes and shapes, but no one fits like i wanted. Most common place is to strap it to the back of the rear seat, here i can put 80 litre tank but i don't need that much fuel, i can drive across my entire country end to end with 25 liters so i'm taking that as a measurement. I test fit all my small LPG tank and non will fit sideways, so i went to couple of car scrap yards and bought this 27 litre tank i loosely put it in to see, it may needs a stand to raise it to clear the wheel well, but it leaves me a lot more trunk space and make the vehicle more usable, also is a newer tank with all the safeties and i may change the safety valve with a tested one and a digital level sender. As a part of the deal i bought a evaporator and a gas valve with filter, all in: tank, evaporator, valve for 15$ a great deal.
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GoceKU

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Today i got the day off work and my back is finally better, so i stopped with the LPG and continued with the transfer case mounts, i put in about 10 hours of hard work, this involved welding upside down, drilling cutting, and fabrication on my back. Started by making one more crossmember and mounting them on both sides, on the passenger side i decided to mount it to the floor with 3 bolts because i wanted to leave space for the exhaust from there i made and welded tabs for the mounts, and welded the 5 th mount to the frame and made a small bracket to bolt to the back of the transfer case, to stop it twisting under load, after every bracket i remove it and fully welded it to stop it twisting, after all was done i ground the edges smooth and painted it first with primer then with some black paint and left them to dry.
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GoceKU

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Today didn't go as planned, i started with doing bodywork on the rocker panels, the plan was to finish the body work on them, apply seam sealer on the floor pan from undernight and together with the rocker panels, passenger side wing and floor pan undercoat everything with bedliner, but midway of applying the second coat of plastic filler a freak rain storm rolled in, from a sunny day it became the perfect storm. My neighborhood is pretty high above the city, so no real threat of flooding but both my garages are couple of meters under the roads, there was so much water flowing on the road that it flow in my garage, the big garage got just a little amount just enough to soak the cardboard undernight the little niva but my machine shop got flooded, i managed to cought it in time and devert the water and only had to drain only a inch of water. The storm lasted few hours in which i got soaked head to toes and that was the end of the progress on the little niva. I hope the cardboard drys till tomorrow so i can make up what i had plan to finish today.
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GoceKU

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Today after work i went straight in the big garage, started with changing the cardboard under the little niva, and seam sealed the floor pan all the small holes and every weld where i've put in a new piece of metal. The seam sealer i used needs 120 minutes to harden, so i started on the rocker panels, sending the plastic filler and applying new coats, i also did some more body work one the front wings, then i prep all the panels for the bedliner. I end up using 3 bottles, that is about 5 kg of material, i had to go up and down with the air pressure to get the texture right for the rocker panels, the nivas have texture on the rockers and are painted body color just a bit on the rocker panels. Then i shoot the undernight the front passenger wing and all the spots i missed on the floor pan. Yesterday was a setback but today i got done as much as i could in the time i had.
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mmcmdl

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I sold my D1-8 collet closer on the bay as well as a 44" tow behind mower on CL ! :encourage: I unfortunately have to scale things down to get into my remaining space . I'm making progress .
 

GoceKU

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Today was a tiring day in the big garage, i did more and more clean up, and made the garage even more of a mess, i needed to remove the LPG tanks from the Little Niva that i used to choose which to use, so i decided to move them in the storage shed, also i made few more trips moving gearboxes and other spares to the shed. That was ended by another one freak rain storm. This one was way less powerful and shorter, the one on tuesday was 70 liters per square metre i did dig out lots of scrap steel from my spares manly car body panels and broken gearboxes, which i may try to scrap tomorrow.
 

hman

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I had to do some high-powered math to convert 70 l/m^2 into the units we tend to use - inches of rain. Assuming I didn't do a blooper, that 2 ¾" (7 cm) of rainfall ... quite a "worm drowner," by anybody's standard! Glad you and your garage survived!
 

mmcmdl

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Tonight is the end of my week . Taking Friday and Sat night off . Be spending 5 straight days and nights in the garage ( if I don't head to the mountains ) I need to get those vfds ordered . Need to clean up as usual . Need to move things back out of the basement . Need to cut both lawns . Need to change a set of rotors on the Honda . Ah heck , I may as well come into work . :rolleyes:
 

jdedmon91

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I had this little suitcase generator for several years. Recently I decided to get it up and running, after letting a local small engine shop attempt to fix it I decided to do it my self.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

GoceKU

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Today i did some more cleaning of the big garage, took a load to the scrapyard. After that i got under it and mounted the transfer case, the mount is hard to mount because of the 5 rubber mounts but feels really solid, the wet and dirty cardboard made this job more miserable but i got it done, i'll be removing all the cardboard before i start on the exhaust. Then i moved on the inside, i clean and applied insulation in the fuel tank hole, i'm using tar style insulation and heating it with blow gun and torch then rolling it with a small roller. After i insolated it i replaced the rubber fuel line, also the filler neck rubber hoses installed new stainless hose clamps, then i installed the cover plate this being a lada it is made from thick steel, i used all new bolts to secure it. This starting part of the fuel system is finished i'll need to start insulating the inside, it is taking a lot more time than i thought.
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