POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

I'm just going to have an underground conduit from the house main panel with 150A 220V if code will permit. I will also run one 20A 120V to carry the internet from the house. It can still be used for powering a circuit in the garage.

Wait, are you using broadband over power?

Just a thought, If you're going through the work of building an extra conduit for network or anything else you want would be nice. When we built, I ran an extra 1", and extra 2" beyond the power run. Run shop air to the basement via Pex-Al-Pex through the 2" line, and fiber for network through the 1". Lots of room to pull anything else I might ever want too, a three way switch circuit for lighting someday, for example.
 
I think the blades are designed to only blow one way, unless they are flat. Like I mentioned, splitting hairs! If you can hold your hand on the cooler discharge line, all is well!

Just wait until you stop getting any water out of the tank after heavy use on a humid summer day. You'll start overthinking all the potential improvements!
12volt/15amp power supply arrived. As well as the 5.5/2.5 female connectors.

I plugged in the power supply to the cooler fan... gave it a run. The copper tubing from the cooler to the filter and the one to the tank, both are cool. Cooler than ambient temperature. This is working fine now.

I just need to find a way for the cooler fan to turn on when the compressor turns on.

AC-Cooler-1.jpeg




AC-Cooler-2.jpeg
 
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12volt/15amp power supply arrived. As well as the 5.5/2.5 female connectors.

I plugged in the power supply to the cooler fan... gave it a run. The copper tubing from the cooler to the filter and the one to the tank, both are cool. Cooler than even ambient temperature. This is working fine now.

I just need to find a way for the cooler fan to turn on when the compressor turns on.

View attachment 478410




View attachment 478411

You could use a 120v/220v relay that activates the 12v fan.

When I worked in the industry, we installed auto drains tied into the pressure switch power-in line, so that as soon as the power to the machine was switched on, the auto-drain had power.

With a cooling fan, you could tie in to the "out" side power feed of the pressure switch to the motor so that fan relay is triggered and only runs when the motor is running, much as we used to do with Hour meters to tell the hours the head and motor actually ran Vs Idle hours (dual hour meters worked for that)
 
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One of the code restrictions here is no insulation is permitted in garages. I think they are trying to prevent someone from living in them. Stupid! What happens later, after inspection??? Overhead doors are always a leaker. Even with the seals, which don't last very well, there is too much slop in the system. I had expensive OHDs put in my business but the seals failed after a few years. There were rubber seals between each panel as well as sides and bottom. They didn't last. The doors had urethane foam cores. 16w x 14h. I've considered what I can do to make an interior cover for winter, not easily done. Will get the best doors I can and do all the adjustments myself.
Another code restriction is not heating or AC. We'll see, later!
I'm just going to have an underground conduit from the house main panel with 150A 220V if code will permit. I will also run one 20A 120V to carry the internet from the house. It can still be used for powering a circuit in the garage.
I thought you guys had much less restrictive requirements. Seems bizarre that they would not consider a garage a work area to have hvac for comfort. Also insulation is good for fire control. Yes the seals get used and abused, owning stock in the weatherstrip company might alleviate some of the cost.
 
You could use a 120v/220v relay that activates the 12v fan.

When I worked in the industry, we installed auto drains tied into the pressure switch power-in line, so that as soon as the power to the machine was switched on, the auto-drain had power.

With a cooling fan, you could tie in to the "out" side power feed of the pressure switch to the motor so that fan relay is triggered and only runs when the motor is running, much as we used to do with Hour meters to tell the hours the head and motor actually ran Vs Idle hours (dual hour meters worked for that)
This, just use a relay with a 220v coil.

The cleanest way is to use a 220v muffin fan wired directly to the starter or pressure switch. I think I used this one on my set-up.
 
This, just use a relay with a 220v coil.

The cleanest way is to use a 220v muffin fan wired directly to the starter or pressure switch. I think I used this one on my set-up.

Pressure switch is what commands the motor to run, triggered by tank pressure, hence the name (yes, some are adjustable, others are fixed)

Agreed a 110/220v fan would be the better option and easier to tie-in dependant on voltage required for the compressor.
 
Pressure switch is what commands the motor to run, triggered by tank pressure, hence the name (yes, some are adjustable, others are fixed)

Agreed a 110/220v fan would be the better option and easier to tie-in dependant on voltage required for the compressor.


You could use a 120v/220v relay that activates the 12v fan.

When I worked in the industry, we installed auto drains tied into the pressure switch power-in line, so that as soon as the power to the machine was switched on, the auto-drain had power.

With a cooling fan, you could tie in to the "out" side power feed of the pressure switch to the motor so that fan relay is triggered and only runs when the motor is running, much as we used to do with Hour meters to tell the hours the head and motor actually ran Vs Idle hours (dual hour meters worked for that)

This, just use a relay with a 220v coil.

The cleanest way is to use a 220v muffin fan wired directly to the starter or pressure switch. I think I used this one on my set-up.

Bookmarked for my next build. Will use that fan in the other compressor.

Thank you.
 
Pressure switch is what commands the motor to run, triggered by tank pressure, hence the name (yes, some are adjustable, others are fixed)
Understood, his compressor is 220v and doesn't have a neutral wire. If you tie a relay into the system it needs a 220v coil to be safe. No reason to get into transformers and low voltage controls on a project this small.
 
Bookmarked for my next build. Will use that fan in the other compressor.

Thank you.
Compare the CFM's with your current fan, McMaster has plenty of options. The downside to this fan is you will need to build your own shroud to fit the cooler but, what's one more project!
 
Understood, his compressor is 220v and doesn't have a neutral wire. If you tie a relay into the system it needs a 220v coil to be safe. No reason to get into transformers and low voltage controls on a project this small.

True..

That said, English 220v has live (feed), neutral (return) and earth so easier to tie in other 220v items (such as a fan/hour meter/auto drain et-al).
 
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