POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

extropic said:
@RandallsRaceShop
I think the knurl headed brass screws look fine.
I am curious about the spacers though. It looks like a stud to may be above the bed of the vise (no good). Why didn't you simply buy shorter studs (or use long set screws) rather than make spacers? What am I missing here?
Click to expand...
Well, the hardware for the vise is all too big to go into the slots of the table. The vice came with a swivel base that I didn’t want to mount & keep on the table. I’m sure the hardware would work fine if I mount up that swivel base then mount the vise to that. I bought a clamping kit with the 727 & what I have mounting the vise is the shortest studs in the kit.
Sounds like what I have done is wrong. I’ll chalk that up to my inexperience & also point a little bit to the guy that sold me a used PM25MV had his vise mounted to the table the exact same way.

The vise isn’t on the table right now (had to tram the head), so I’ll take a look at what length studs I need & go get something of the correct length.
 
@RandallsRaceShop
Easy enough to fix. I like to have the vise hold downs as unobtrusive as possible so they seldom get in the way.
You could probably get socket head cap screws and thick/hardened washers, at your local hardware store, that will work nicely.
You could also get shorter threaded studs or socket set screws to use with the nuts from your clamping kit. McMaster sells studs 1.5" long (and longer).
T-slot nuts are available fully threaded through as well as partially threaded (so a bolt/stud will not extend through the bottom). Whatever fastener combination you end up with, if your T-slot nuts are fully threaded through, be careful that your studs/screws are not bearing on the bottom of the
T-slot.
 
extropic said:
T-slot nuts are available fully threaded through as well as partially threaded (so a bolt/stud will not extend through the bottom). Whatever fastener combination you end up with, if your T-slot nuts are fully threaded through, be careful that your studs/screws are not bearing on the bottom of the
T-slot.
Click to expand...
Very risky to have fully threaded T-slot nuts! One wrong use and your mill table casting can be broken!
 
made a new Bull gear for my Standard Modern 13" 2000 series lathe using a modified off the shelf Boston gear YD72, now its smooth and quiet.
well quiet as you can get with a gearhead lathe.
old gear had a repaired tooth with a noticeable clicking sound while running.
 

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RandallsRaceShop said:
Well, the hardware for the vise is all too big to go into the slots of the table. The vice came with a swivel base that I didn’t want to mount & keep on the table. I’m sure the hardware would work fine if I mount up that swivel base then mount the vise to that. I bought a clamping kit with the 727 & what I have mounting the vise is the shortest studs in the kit.
Sounds like what I have done is wrong. I’ll chalk that up to my inexperience & also point a little bit to the guy that sold me a used PM25MV had his vise mounted to the table the exact same way.

The vise isn’t on the table right now (had to tram the head), so I’ll take a look at what length studs I need & go get something of the correct length.
Click to expand...
My solution (3" vise, swivel base removed, on a Mini-Mill):

Mill Vise Hardware 1.jpeg

Mill Vise Hardware 2.jpeg

T-Slot Nuts are 3/8-16; used short Grade 8 Flange Nuts with Thick Washers and the standard T-Slot Nuts. The washers help spread the load across the oversized hole in the vise base and reduce the possibility of the vise moving when tightened the bolts. Although I have never used the swivel base, I left brass indicator in place if I ever need it (the bottom doesn't touch the table).

The white bars were ripped from 5/8" PVC trim board and help keep swarf out of the T-Slots.
 
extropic said:
Easy enough to fix. I like to have the vise hold downs as unobtrusive as possible so they seldom get in the way.
You could probably get socket head cap screws and thick/hardened washers, at your local hardware store, that will work nicely.
You could also get shorter threaded studs or socket set screws to use with the nuts from your clamping kit. McMaster sells studs 1.5" long (and longer).
T-slot nuts are available fully threaded through as well as partially threaded (so a bolt/stud will not extend through the bottom). Whatever fastener combination you end up with, if your T-slot nuts are fully threaded through, be careful that your studs/screws are not bearing on the bottom of the
T-slot.
Click to expand...
Long story short, I walked out to the shop a little while ago & wanted to make the mounting situation better (no spacers).
So I ended up cutting 1” off of both of those studs, remounted & indicated the vise in. Good to go

Thank you for saying something about that. It made me do better & also realize that I wasn’t thinking when I made spacers & called it good enough.
 

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@ChazzC
I like your use of PVC "lumber" as filler strips. I have some remnants of that material laying around and will do the same. I knew I saved that stuff for something (head slap).
 
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