Pretty sure I need a mill part 2 cleanup

[Steve-F]

I have that same power feed on mine!

 

[DeadGuyAle]

I bought a new way cover at HF. It’s in the tool box section. Cut-to-fit. Xlnt stuff.
i have a standard tin stand under mine. It puts my mill table at 38”. Which is 2”-4” too low for me. And I’m just 5’-8.5” tall.
these stands, while they work, are hard to level, not Very solid, & storage is nil, & hard to access.
I’ll be building one out of angle or square tube with adjustable feet. Possibly with rollers. Take note.
Again, thanks for the write-up & photos, it answers most of the questions I would Ask.
And I agree, Dead Guy Ale & 10 Barrel Brew Pub beer are the Dog’s Bollocks.
cheers
EDIT: The vise is a 5” btw

Thanks for the input Manual Mac!
Will eventually need to address a stand myself. Another discussion at some point
Nice pictures, just ordered a 5” vice so timely to see your setup
cheers too you on all good beers power feed is pretty cool!

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Tonight was
little brass interface’s installed


end cap and inner/outer bearings

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Then back to the table
Green scotch brite and lacquer thinner much later


As far as I got

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Also been attending to some deburring with my beat up old file
Lot of pretty gross edges. One prime example that needs some love

 

[WCraig]

Are you going to separate the base casting from the upright portion? My RF-30 is a bit different, but I believe that to tram the spindle square to the table, that is where the shims would go on yours. Probably makes sense to ensure the mating surfaces are flat?

Craig

 

[pontiac428]

Are you going to separate the base casting from the upright portion? My RF-30 is a bit different, but I believe that to tram the spindle square to the table, that is where the shims would go on yours. Probably makes sense to ensure the mating surfaces are flat?

Craig

I'd verify that it's square first before separating the column from the base. My HF-RF was just like yours (mine was a 1997), and was nice and true, so I never touched it. Others have had to shim the column straight, but if it ain't broke, there's no need to go through the trouble.

 

[Tomzo]

I, for one, am really enjoying these images. Thanks!

 

[DeadGuyAle]

Are you going to separate the base casting from the upright portion? My RF-30 is a bit different, but I believe that to tram the spindle square to the table, that is where the shims would go on yours. Probably makes sense to ensure the mating surfaces are flat?

Craig

I'd verify that it's square first before separating the column from the base. My HF-RF was just like yours (mine was a 1997), and was nice and true, so I never touched it. Others have had to shim the column straight, but if it ain't broke, there's no need to go through the trouble.

For the time being I’m going to let things alone on this front.
Not sure what the process would be to check but sound like a good learning experience

 

[pontiac428]

For the time being I’m going to let things alone on this front.
Not sure what the process would be to check but sound like a good learning experience

Wise choice. When it's all back together, you can check tram by mounting a test indicator in your spindle with some offset from the spindle axis. Then you compare measurements along the arc of travel that the indicator makes as you rotate the spindle. If the spindle is perpendicular to the plane, the measurements will all be the same. If not, you can shim the post. Basically, it doesn't come down to numbers or measurement, it comes down to whether the mill's axis is straight enough that you can live with the finish you get on your work.