- Joined
- Jan 25, 2015
- Messages
- 2,558
The 100mm test you referenced is about calibrating your extrusion rate.
Basically, you’re making sure when you call for an amount (100 mm is just the test amount) that you are getting what you are calling for.
No more, no less.
You should always calibrate the extruder becuase production tolerances between parts and manufactures vary, which can lead to over/under extrusion.
Obviously, if the extruder is under or over extruding, you will have print problems. Theres a modifier in the firmware that allows you to increase/decrease the extruder in order to get it calibrated properly.
I use a Cr10 v3 with custom marlin firmware. E3d volcano hot end, steel print bed and all in an enclosure for thermal stability. I ditched the print bed springs for solid mounts, installed a bltouch and my firmware has a specific setting to do a custom bed leveling. Works great and re-leveling the bed takes 5 mins if I’m taking my time at it.
It might be a bit of overkill, but I do a new z offset/bed level every time I change a nozzle. The custom firmware makes it a snap. Knock on wood, haven’t had a print fail since I started checking the offset after a nozzle change…
Basically, you’re making sure when you call for an amount (100 mm is just the test amount) that you are getting what you are calling for.
No more, no less.
You should always calibrate the extruder becuase production tolerances between parts and manufactures vary, which can lead to over/under extrusion.
Obviously, if the extruder is under or over extruding, you will have print problems. Theres a modifier in the firmware that allows you to increase/decrease the extruder in order to get it calibrated properly.
I use a Cr10 v3 with custom marlin firmware. E3d volcano hot end, steel print bed and all in an enclosure for thermal stability. I ditched the print bed springs for solid mounts, installed a bltouch and my firmware has a specific setting to do a custom bed leveling. Works great and re-leveling the bed takes 5 mins if I’m taking my time at it.
It might be a bit of overkill, but I do a new z offset/bed level every time I change a nozzle. The custom firmware makes it a snap. Knock on wood, haven’t had a print fail since I started checking the offset after a nozzle change…
Last edited: