Rebuilding My Logan 820

The electrical motor is gonna give me fits... They had a 3/4 hp motor, but it did not fit quite right and it looked like the mounts were under tons of stress. Now I am trying to put it back but parts keep hitting in places I don't think it should hit. It came wired for 110 volts, and it can be wired for 220. It has a thread on chuck, which reminds me of safety issues if placed into reverse it "could" un-thread itself. I have a nice 6 terminal drum switch, (see the very first photo).

Now that being said, I have a brand new 1/2 hp motor that is smaller and fits on the mount much better, it also can be wired for 220, just needs a pulley which I can get locally. Not sure which way to go.......
On to the next thought, the belt cover acts as a tensioner for the belt. I am thinking that I want zero slippage, period. So anyone had an slippage issues with the current set up?

Also note the mounts under the cover that are supposed to be rubber??? I made some out of Delrin, before the light went on. Those are isolation mounts so I went to the local hardware store got 2 rubber stoppers and I will make them out of rubber and replace in the very near future.

And Not sure how I am going to deal with the counter shaft bracket....manual I ordered from Logan shows lathes after serial number 40115 to have (2) oiless bushings.....mine has none. Because of that the shaft is quite worn and will need replaced, but without the bushings it will repeat the failure. So off to work I go to bore out the bracket and install 2 bushings with grease fittings, as I am not comfortable with just oil there. Only have one more week off till I have to go back to work, looks like I won't get this up and running but going to push hard....

Till the next update...
 
Ok, the motor(s) have officially pi**ed me off. the 1/2 hp is a 48 frame and I can only get 2 bolts to hold it down. The 3/4 hp I can't bolt down because of the housing that holds the wiring is in the flipping way, and I can't find ANY way to solve it...I can only assume the PO used the 3/4 motor as that is what was on it, but I can't figure it out. I do NOT want to hack the lathe casting to relive for the wiring housing...Here is the photo with the 3/4 hp Baldor motor...I have almost 1/2 inch of interference, and no the motor wont go out any further without losing the front 2 attachment bolts, and I cant slide it any more towards the belt as the front of the motor is almost touching the fan guard now... Gonna be effing pi** if I have to buy another motor, cuz that will require begging the wife for more "toy" funds :)
motor fiasco.jpg
 
Is that the wiring box ? If it is have you plenty of room for your wires ? Now if you can you may be able to cut part of the box away or move the box on the motor turn it sideways or end for end just be careful if you drill to put sheet metal screws in !! If you can move the box I bet a couple of long zip ties would hold the box on . There has to be away to make it work fab a new motor mount not real hard to do .if ya were close to me I bet I could help ya.
 
Yup that is the wiring box....
I replaced the counter shaft today, I suppose I could cobble something, but really wanted to avoid that near anything electrical. The 1/2 hp motors frame is the wrong size so I can't use that one....Always something..LOL
 
Ya kinda have to accept that when doing work like that . Remember anyone who's done rebuilds has to deal with these PITA things. It's what makes it fun really.
 
I'm not familiar with that motor but sometimes you can loosen the bell screws and rotate the sheet metal motor band (between the bells) to provide a little extra clearance. It's worth a try.

John
 
Punch a hole in top of the pecker head and run your wires in from the top.
 
Ok, I can turn that box around but you gotta realize the box is over 1/2" out of location. And no way to blot that box down with it out of position... getting ready to take a chuck outta the side of the cast iron side to give room for the wire box...
 
usually the wires come out of the motor from one end of the box , so if you can turn the box it should make up at least the half inch you need??? Ck it and see before you start cuttin !!! or make a wedge to tilt the motor or make a plate to move the motor sideways , think clearer not quicker !
 
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