Rebuilding My Logan 820

OK, the hole in the box is not the issue, the entire box itself needs to move towards you in the photo...Look at the gasket and you will see how much it has to move... it can't be rotated because that then causes a misalignment of the pulley and housing on the other side...
 
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sorry your not understanding me . I mean open the box and look inside to see where the wires come out of the motor, then the box is bolted to the outside of the motor. up to you I'm trying but you have to look and think things out too. now if the wires come out on an end you can undo the screws holding the box to the motor turn the box ninety degrees or one hundred eighty degrees and drill new holes and mount the box , now don't drill deep just thru the metal use the same short screws and remount on the angle that gives you room. if the box can't be turned by a new motor. I'm talking about the box that's on the motor blocking the movement if all else take the box off and wrap your wires good with electric tape making sure they can't rub any sharp metal .
 
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And it is now powered up, but LOTS of noise..... me thinks the motor, but going to check everything out first..WOOHOO!!!!!!!!!!!

It is the motor, so now to tear it down put the chip pan in and re-assemble with the new motor...Very stoked...
 
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So now everything is together, I have 4 bolts to clean up and put back in the turret, I have oiled every gits cup, and both non existent oil cups on the counter shaft yoke. There are only holes and NO threads...quite odd, and add to that fact there are NO bushings on the counter shaft yoke???????? Parts lists CLEARLY calls for 2 bushings... Interesting, well I know 2 things I gotta make then. aside from that I filled the automatic apron up with oil, until it started to come out the set screw. During assembly I kept referring to the parts list and realized, there is NO gasket between the 2 halves?????
I can't imagine 2 metal halves keeping oil in place and with the work I have gone thru, I don't want to keep filling this thing with oil. So I made sure both sides were clean, dry and free of dirt...When assembled I use Quicksilver Bellows adhesive. Waited 4 days before adding the oil and dang....it leaks...UGGH!!!!! Now to drain it, tear it back down and make a gasket.. Unless someone has a better idea?

Oh here is the completed project: Ready to make final parts for the taper attachment as well.
Logan Lathe final assembly.jpg
 
I used liquid (?) gasket, comes in a tube from the auto parts store. No leak now.

And wow, that's looking good.
 
OK, I am back :) Well here goes, lathe runs well, cuts true, like it should, but.
The counter shaft, shows having bushings, per the drawing. Mine has NEVER had them. I think that if it was a replacement it should have them. That implies mine is original. A whole lot of friction going on back there. See attached photo, there is wear in the yoke as well, so I am thinking bushings?I would LOVE to put roller bearings with oil seals, but that would require a hardened shaft, and I used that for the taper attachment :) Oiled @ less than 20 minute intervals.....

So I am thinking .125 wall thickness on the bushings? They would be somewhat easily replaceable, but I don't want to replace them yearly..

Thoughts?

You can see the stripes already with less than an hour of run time...
counter shaft wear.jpg
 
Ours never had them originally either, but it does now. I used commonly available oilite bushing stock that was 7/8" OD and 3/4" ID (I think). The shaft itself was a piece of common non-keyed shaft stock. I think I dropped $20 at my local bearing supply house for everything. Be careful as you drill the yoke. In the end I needed to line ream to correct alignment, which left the contact a couple thou gappy in a couple spots, but it's far better then it was, and should wear a lot longer. I've contemplated fitting oil cups or grease fittings as the small oil holes tend to get skipped when the machine gets lubed.
 
Very discouraged on the gasket used to "seal" apron assembly. I tightened it twice, and every day religiously it seeps, which means the seal failed. What the heck.... I cant fathom it having nothing from the factory and NOT leaking, so I add a seal and it STILL leaks...LOL
 
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