Rockwell 25-OX6

OneIWilly,

Being in a similar position to yourself, just starting out with metal cutting, only a month or so ahead of you, my recommendation for your first purchases would be measuring equipment. You are not going to be able to do much of anything on your lathe, other than cleaning, without some basic precision measuring tools. You are going to need a couple types of dial indicators, a magnetic base, some calipers and/or micrometers, a small steel precision rule, and a few other small things, just to get the lathe set up and do anything useful. I bought Shars stuff to start off with, but eventually I will step up to better stuff. The Shars, or probably any of the cheap Chinese stuff offered on eBay is sufficiently accurate for what I'm doing, although I can't vouch for the durability or the accuracy over the long term. If you can afford it, I'd suggest getting good stuff to begin with, but you're talking about a difference of orders of magnitude in price.

After the measuring gear, I'd invest in a 3-jaw chuck. I think you said you have a 4-jaw. You can do anything with a 4-jaw that you can with a 3-jaw, plus you can dial it in with a dial indicator to have absolutely no runout (provided it's in good shape to begin with), which you cannot do with a 3-jaw, however, a 3-jaw is so much faster to set up, that if you are doing an operation in which you can tolerate runout of maybe .001, then the 3-jaw is the way to go. I have both and find myself using the 3-jaw a lot more than the 4-jaw.

You are also going to need some centers. I find a good dead center quite useful. Dead centers are more accurate and cheaper, but live centers are great. Since you have the headstock adapter (which is very difficult to find, by the way) you should get at least one center in MT2 for the headstock, to use with your drive plate and dogs. The rest should be MT3 for your tailstock. I would also recommend a good keyless Jacobs chuck with a MT2, so you can use it in the headstock or tailstock (with an MT3/MT2 sleeve adapter).

You'll need a set of center drills, and some bits of appropriate size for your tool post. If you can afford a quick-change tool post of some variety, I'd recommend getting one. I am using a lantern tool post right now, like the one on your lathe, and while it works fine, I find it very tedious resetting the tool height and position for every operation. If you don't have one, you'll need to buy a grinder. It doesn't have to be an expensive one, but it will need to have a decent tool rest. You'll need this to grind your tool bits.

Collets are really nice for precision work. Your lathe will take 5C collets, which are readily available and not too expensive, but the collet adapter and closer are killers. You will be looking at $3-500 for a collet set, closer, and thread protector, so mark that as a Christmas present to self for another year.

There. I think that will suffice for now. As you get going you'll find other things to put on your wish list, but these things are what I found to be necessary for me to do the basic things I needed to do right away with my lathe.

I have a DR 11 like yours that I am rebuilding, although it is the older model, and have been using a South Bend 9A to make replacement parts for it...and enjoying every minute of it.
 
I actually have a lot of the tools you mentioned. I also ordered a bxa qctp today. I have been dealing with the lantern type post, it's a pain, but useable. I figured, I'd post some pictures of some stuff I made recently. What do you guys think? That thing in back is a tool I made to go in the tail stock, to put a threading die in. Pretty cool!null_zps2543fe37.jpg

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Get yourself one of these AXA tool post holder sets. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/axa-tool-post . I have a piston type on my small 9" lathe and a wedge type on the 12", I think the wedge type is better but I really haven't had any problems with the piston type. It sounds like you have plenty of cutters. Your gonna need a few center drills and some standard size drill bits (0-1/2") and maybe a number and a letter set to go with that, if you don't already have those items. A live center would be nice but not necessary since you already have a dead center. Things will creep up as you get more involved in using your lathe, but i think those things will get you started. I'm constantly making and acquiring tooling for my machines. The more tooling you have, the quicker and easier it is to get things done. This hobby can get expensive, so watch Craigs list and ebay for bargains. I've bought stuff for pennys on the dollar, compared to new.

Also check out Tools4Cheap.net ( http://www.tools4cheap.net/products.php?cat=9 ) He has a wedge style AXA set for $125 - and Shars (discount_machine on ebay) Also CDCO tools.
 
Looks like that lathe cuts metal a lot better than a Jeep top!:)) I'd say it was a good trade!
 
looks like you're quite a lot further along in the machining front than a lot of us! The tail stock die holder is a great idea, I wouldn't mind making one of those at some point.

If you end up dumping the old style holders, you can recoup quite a bit of the cost of your QCTP by selling them on eBay. I sold a couple of sets that were thrown out by a work machining shop for $50 a set (L, R, Center, boring). That'll put you some way towards a set of indexable bits :)

Merry Christmas!
 
My wife told me that if I made everybody a Christmas present, I could run the lathe 24-7. So I made a pile of hammers and stamped names into them with a stamp set. Just finished the last two!null_zpsce8214de.jpg

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I'm jealous. Wish I were using my DR. I'm still rebuilding.
 
I have read about the one you are rebuilding. I feel really fortunate to have found this machine. If yours works like this one, you are going to love it. Just got the lathe cleaned up. Emptied a bucket of chips.null_zps09a8dd8e.jpg

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Well I got my quick change tool post today. I am happy with it. I need to go down and have this piece milled down to .275 so it will fit in the compound. I'm excited!null_zps023f8a20.jpg

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Machine it so its like a T nut, you want all the threads to be as tall as possible in the nut. This will give you the most holding strength without straining or warping your compound. Tim
 
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