- Joined
- Feb 24, 2015
- Messages
- 1,382
I need to make a canopy to protect my boat in the driveway. A standard canopy has the peak too high and will be visible over the gate on my driveway. The code Nazis don't like boats, rvs or canopies visible in the driveway. I have a good cover but no matter how I try to brace it up, it still makes puddles and lakes. I figure if I can make a shallower pitch canopy it would help deflect leaves and acorns and other spring and fall tree things from the inside of my boat.
The idea is to keep the peak of the canopy roof below the 6' gate across my driveway. I need to do some maintenance on the boat and a shady place to work would be nice. I can jack it up higher when I need to work on it, and lower it as low as it will go to deflect all the tree gonads that fall and spring have to offer.
For rails and legs, I'll use 1.25" OD chain link top rails, and make the tinker toy joints from 1.5" rigid conduit.
Which means, I need to make a lot of Saddle cuts. 3-ridge joints, 4 corner joints and 2 center joints for a 6-legged canopy.
I have a HF tubing notcher that sorta works. It tends to drift a little.
I was thinking of using either the 1.5" bi-metal hole saw on the mill, or getting a 1.5" roughing end mill. Shars has a 1.5" x 2" LOC roughing cobalt end mill for about $48.
If I use the end mill, should I enter the cut from the side or plunge it on the end of the tube?
The idea is to keep the peak of the canopy roof below the 6' gate across my driveway. I need to do some maintenance on the boat and a shady place to work would be nice. I can jack it up higher when I need to work on it, and lower it as low as it will go to deflect all the tree gonads that fall and spring have to offer.
For rails and legs, I'll use 1.25" OD chain link top rails, and make the tinker toy joints from 1.5" rigid conduit.
Which means, I need to make a lot of Saddle cuts. 3-ridge joints, 4 corner joints and 2 center joints for a 6-legged canopy.
I have a HF tubing notcher that sorta works. It tends to drift a little.
I was thinking of using either the 1.5" bi-metal hole saw on the mill, or getting a 1.5" roughing end mill. Shars has a 1.5" x 2" LOC roughing cobalt end mill for about $48.
If I use the end mill, should I enter the cut from the side or plunge it on the end of the tube?