seized spindle bearings

Good job! So what kind of grease did you go with?
 
savarin said:
I followed the idea from the pdf above of reducing the diameter of the old bearing outer ring to use as a pusher.
View attachment 282132
I found by angling the wooden batton I could get the ring to spin fast but sand off material as well.
It took only 5 mins to get to where it was a free fit into the headstock.
View attachment 282133
I'm glad it didn't take long because as I got everything together I suddenly found a chunk of aluminium casting that had been turned down for a spacer ages ago (never throw anything away) that fit perfectly and made the job easy.
View attachment 282134
by slipping the end of the all thread into the tail stock it kept it straight and the new parts went in easily but a tight fit.
I also fitted the grease shields back in place.
The mega down side later was I distorted the roller cage getting that part onto the spindle and all the rollers fell out.
Luckily they fell onto the cloth and I never lost any.
I learnt two things here -
1. use a proper fitting tube drift to install the cone so as not to damage the cage.
2. the rollers are tapered so only fit in one way. Now thinking about it of course they have to be tapered and it says "taper roller bearing" but it had never crossed my mind before.
It took a bit of fiddling to get the pre load correct but it runs very smoothly now and 20 mins flat out only got to pleasantly hot, ie can be held in the hand. 40 mins at low speed barely raised the temp.
It is way smoother than when new but I havnt used it to do anything yet.
I decided to drill for grease nipples so the bearings wouldnt dry out and maybe last more than 6 years this time.
View attachment 282135
I know its under the speed plate but it wont be a weekly job.
I couldnt place them on the top as the inside of the casting doesnt reach the bearing housing.
So I wont have an excuse not to do it I will replace the screws with knurled ones.[/QUOTE
Click to expand...
 
Nice job on the repair ,A little trick we used to do when using old bearing cones as pushers we just used to split them with a grinder then they can be pulled out easily from the bore
 
That's a fantastic place to put the grease nipples! If I ever have to service the bearings on my 9x20, I'll do the same. Might have some surprises, though. I think I read somewhere that some of these lathes use angular contact ball bearings, rather than tapered rollers.

Thanks also for your tips and techniques, such as centering the all thread in the tailstock!
 
Way to go Charles !
Now get back to your binoculars.

The grumpy old coot
 
Very nice! You make a complex job look easy!
Robert
 
Thanks everybody.
The grease is an SKF product advised by the agent.
grease-2.jpg
It has a very nice smooth feel
grease-1.jpg
 
Ray, a 2 meter lever is a hell of a lot of leverage/poundage
I used a 1 meter steel box section and got 3 thou " deflection and that was a lot of weight on the lever.
 
Wood is soft, that's why I suggested a 2x4. It will crush and shouldn't harm anything. I think I might even have used pine, pine lumber is common around here. I'm not talking about what you would call Oregon Pine , Douglas Fir. That's harder and stronger. There is a difference between bearing clearance and machine flex. You need bearing clearance otherwise they don't turn, but you need enough that when things get warm, they still turn.

Yeah, after being retired for 4 years, that weight has increased. We have friends in Cains (sp) How's the wet.
 
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awaiting the storm, very very hot humid and muggy with thunder in the background.
Weve had a bit of rain but not the wet yet.
Just put up the large snowman and lights, a snowman at these temps?
Cooling down with psychology does nae work.
 
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