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Shop made, homemade drill press.

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GoceKU

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#31
Today i spend all my free time driving steel place to steel place even visited couple of scrap yards, and finding pipe with 60 mm inside is difficult, i bought this exhaust pipe and this mercedes ML400 driveshaft, it was little expensive but should fit, the bigger pipe is 3 coll 89 mm i bought it for the column, i need to figure out some thing for the work table, i don't have a mill to mill T Nut slots and can't find a factory one, any ideas?
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GoceKU

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#35
It's an interesting, cool concept of making T slots, but it must be milled at the end to have it flat and straight, i was thinking a dual table design, to rotate between square and detent rotary round table (dividing head) on the other side, because of that i'll have to make the raising and lowering of the table be on a rack and pinion, which will key the table mount, so i'll have to make the head swing left to right, to be able to do off center drilling.
 

GoceKU

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#36
Today i've been busy but did managed to cut, clean up the pipes i bought yesterday, and take couple of measurements, the silver pipe seams to be much harder material, some type of stainless steel or titanium, and is at 60 mm and is smooth inside, no weld rage but doesn't fit over the pipe i've machined, will try cleaning the inside with flap wheel, and is the piece i'll most likely use, the black driveshaft pipe is 59 mm inside and has big weld rage, this is the backup plan.
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GoceKU

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#37
I was surprised why the pipe won't slide when i had 0.3 mm clearance i did not wanted to dirty up my flapper wheel so i decided to try and wash the pipe and was pleasantly surprised it wash out like new, smooth as glass, and after washing fits over the pipe i machined earlier, it has a little dent in the middle i need to push out or cut, what a difference little carbon made in the fit, and how smooth this pipe is was a surprise to me.
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GoceKU

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#38
Have you heard of Murphy's law, i've been looking for drill press with a good quill with no success, today i visited an tools market and in between all the china crap i spotted this new spindle with an morse 2 taper and B16 chuck, almost identical part i made last week about 50% smaller and missing the upper drive part, it was at a good price so i bought it, i'm interested how is the drive spline called, i've seen it before on other machinery i've put the last picture with a gear with the same drive spline only bigger.
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brino

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#39
it was at a good price so i bought it
Goce,

Those are words to live by.
If you don't use it for this project it will come in useful for another one at a later time, and you'll have it on hand.

Honestly, reading this thread and seeing the pieces of steel that you are having to work with makes me feel two ways:
1) lucky....................for both the used equipment dealers and the machine-tool parts places around that have decent prices, and
2) a little guilty..........I may have pieces of steel tube in my steel recycle bin that are better than your raw stock.

I wish I could send you some steel tube at a reasonably shipping cost!

But from what I've seen, you will be able to produce a very functional tool from pieces of scrap metal.
I commend your attitude and approach to making the best parts you can from the stock at hand.

I respect your fortitude!
-brino
 

jim18655

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#40
I'm impressed with the build. He's only one step above pouring his own steel.
 

GoceKU

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#41
I would love to know what comes next before you attempt, maybe we could offer some alternative solutions. Best of luck
I appreciate any suggestion, so next i want to start on the base for the drill press, to mount the pipe then move back to the quill so the work won't be monotonous, for the base i plan to use this 100 x 60 x 8 mm pipe is extremely heavy and should not flex, i plan to put thick gussets, in the last three photos i've mock it up with papir the in the front i plan to put that aluminium pedal for emergency brake, i'll install a switch that will cut power to the motor and a motorcycle brake cylinder and a disk brake on the last pulley, now the question is where do i place the pipe, all the way back, in the middle or in front of the base pipes?
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GoceKU

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#42
This morning i had couple of hours free so i started on the base, took me close to an hour to make couple of cuts with my 4" grinder on this thick tubing, then i chamfer the edges and welded them at 45 degrees, after that i need to figure out something about the gear racks i need a long one for the work table, and a smaller one for the quill, and after calling all the gear and bearing dealers i know, i know i'm on my own to make one, unfortunately i do not own a mill or a shaper, so i turn to cars, i dig out couple of old flywheels and remove the starter rings, did little straightening on the bench vice, then i took them to my destroyed shop press i got them semi straight they would take couple of hours more to get them truly straight but i run out of time, this is fairly cheap way to have gear racks.
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mark_f

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#43
I find this project amazing. It is amazing what this craftsman is doing with so little and repurposing materials. It makes me very thankful to live in a country where so much is available to us so easily. I wonder how many of us would have the fortitude to scavenge and go through the trouble to repurpose materials that sone of these guys in other countries must do because nothing is readily available.
I find GoceKU an amazing and talented craftsman.
 

Hellkell

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#45
I would have thought the ring gear would have cracked. Did you have to heat it up to soften it first?
 

GoceKU

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#48
Today i spent a lot of time in the big garage looking for gears, strengthening the gear rack for the quill, then i went to the machine shop and continued machining the quill pipe, first i installed and set up the study rest, and cut the first bearing seat and retainer grove the i install the bearing to help the pipe from collapsing in the chuck and flip the pipe around, then cut the outside to meat the rest of the OD than i measure and set the distances between the bearings cut the second seat and retaining grove, then i scraped two lines to help me position the gear rack, more to come.
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GoceKU

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#49
Today i did little of both machining and welding, you've may seen this piece in previous photos, yesterday i welded little on it, it has a big enough lip to register, but i wanted to add little more to be sure it registers flat to the flywheel, the flywheel is from an peugeot 405 an i've chosen it because is the flattest one i've got, removed the starter ring and welded the shaft to it on both sides also welded the bolt holes as well i plan to use this piece as a rotating work table on the drill press, i need to remove about 10 mm of the face to make it flat and the shaft is over sized so i can cut it down to size and make it run thru with the face, then i place and welded the gear rack to the quill, both pieces were clean so it welded much better, than i began working on the base, first clean up the welds from yesterday and welded the two legs together at the back then from the front, then i cut and weld a piece of flat bar in the front, i'll have a pedal there, also i welded up the fronts of the tubes, i'm thinking should i fill those tubes with sand or concrete to add weight for stability ?
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GoceKU

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#50
Today i started machining the modifying the flywheel in to a work table, started by changing the chuck jaws for the outside ones, because the shaft is old it already had centered hole but because i weld it, it wasn't centered, so i redrilled it with a big centre drill, then i setup the live center to make the setup riget the shaft wasn't too much out of round, i took it easy, 80 rpm and took 0,5 mm cuts, because the keyway didn't want to grab the insert and make a mess, i need to take couple more cuts but wanted to check how parallel is the flywheel running and it clean up with only few tens cut, i run out of time for today, i will continue tomorrow.
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savarin

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#51
I cant wait to see the finished machine.
I love this build.
 

GoceKU

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#52
This morning i had some free time so i managed to finish the shaft to size, also drill and tap the end, now is ready to be turn around and the face cut flat, may do one more update tonight if i do any more machining.
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GoceKU

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#53
I managed to do little more machining on this flywheel, i did finish the outside diameter, it had a step for the starter gear, i made a two passes on the face but i quickly find out the fly wheel is cast iron and not cast seel, i did a spark test before i weld it, it welded normally, if i known i wouldn't use it, i run out time tonight also my insert chipped, tomorrow i'll change the carbide insert and continue.
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GoceKU

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#54
Today i continued with machining the work table, started with light cuts to allow the new insert and machine to come up to temperature, it turn out good, i'm thinking maybe i should cut circles at 50 mm increments to help with aligning the parts for drilling, also whale it was turning i oiled it to prevent it from flash rusting, tonight Real Madrid vs Man United are playing in the city next to me, so i'll be there watching.
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GoceKU

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#55
Today i decided to make the spring loaded detents for the rotary work table i did not take many pictures then machining them but i can tell you they took me couple of hours on the lathe, i drill and cut the channels by hand with a grinder, it's hard to explain what will they do but it will become clear once i put it together.
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GoceKU

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#56
Today i continued working on the drill table, started again with a scrap piece of axle housing first i cut the ends flat then clean the outside so my study rest can roll on it, then i bore out the inside 55 mm lower side is bored much more deep for the index plates, i'm using 6006 bearings , i do love my study rest, it's so sturdy i can take 0,1 mm cuts and ti measures exactly 0,1 mm the accuracy of this lathe even after 45 years of hard use is unbelievable.
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GoceKU

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#57
This night i had some free time so i started on the dividing plates, started with 60 mm piece of 4140 i drill it out to 29 mm, and need to bore it out to 30 mm, then i cut down the outside diameter to 54 mm i left 1 mm clearance, tomorrow i'll continue, the simplest way to explain i'm making this dividing table like tumblers on a safe lock.
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GoceKU

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#58
Today i had very little free time to spend so i spend it wisely, first i press in the bearings in the work table housing so i can measure how wide to make the dividing plates, after that i got back to the machine shop and started by boring the inside diameter to final dimension, the boring bar i was using did not reach to the bottom of the bore so when i flip it around, had to go back and bore the last 12 mm, then i parted the plates at 21 mm wide now i need mark and cut the dividing groves, more to come.
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GoceKU

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#59
Quick little update, i mark and center drilled all 3 plates, and drill starter hole, and tried drilling to size on one, i used one clamp to hold them, i don't have a drill press vice, more to come.
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GoceKU

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#60
Last couple of weeks i've been extremely busy so much so i've been getting only 3h sleep every day, but finally today had an hour free, so i continue on the work table, chuck it up and cut couple of lines at 100 mm and every 50 mm bigger, i use a dial indicator to measure them and they are very accurate, than i drill and tap the center co be able to tread in a bolt in the chuck and use it to set the head in the centre of the table, then i changed the chuck jaws and took couple thousands to make it slide fit instead of press fit, then i testfit the housing and in the last picture you can see where the cam plates will go, more to come.
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