Single Point Threading on a PM-1030V?

So right when I was about to change the gears to cut 20 TPI, my Dad stopped by so I had a helper. This was a super easy task. I will post pictures and cite the very few challenges that I faced.

Here is the gear setup that came with the lathe: set up for turning, facing, boring, etc. (slow carriage and cross slide power feed speeds).

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I looked at the chart on the lathe (not the manual, just be to sure) to find out what gears I needed; I made sure that I had all these gears (I did) before proceeding. I loosened the two M6 bolts that secure the quadrant (or banjo) in place, and took off the old gears. I used an 8mm open end wrench and an M5 hex key to remove the "old" gears. I made note of the position of the washers, bolts and T nuts.

Here is the banjo ready for a new configuration of change gears:

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Around this point, I realized that this is a really easy task and that I should never fret about having to do it. Here is a picture of the "stock" (turning) change gears after I pulled them off. You will see bolts, washers, and bushings that hold two gears together. PM supplies an extra spacer (that I needed today) and an extra bushing (used to attach two gears together ("compound gears", says Mr. Pete). Both the bushings and washers are symmetric, so you can't put them on backwards.

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I failed to take a picture of the spacer, referred to as "H" on the threading configuration chart. It is a black oxide, keyed metal spacer.

Here are the first two pairs of gears installed on the banjo. I lubed the ball oiler and gear teeth with way oil. I used a sheet of Post-It paper to set gear lash.

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Some of these bushings were a bit of a tight fit. You have to make sure that you put the gear straight on and indexed perfectly with the key slot, obviously. I used way oil to help coax it in. I had to tap in one gear set. I may well need a gear puller to get them off, which doesn't bother me.

I wanted to file some of the parts a thou or so, but my Dad advised against it.

I did have to punch out one or two bushings. I laid the change gear on top of a bench vise and used a socket to punch out the bushing.

The gear and bushing below needed to be hammered together. I am sure that I will have to punch out the bushing when I take it apart.

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Here is a picture of all the change gears needed to cut 20 TPI installed on the banjo.

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The change gear install is complete. The banjo is back in place with proper lash set and way oil applied to the gear teeth.


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Here is the 20 TPI cut. Now I will set about cutting a lot of 20 tpi internal and threads, just for practice and fun.

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Here is a picture of the spacer ("H") slipped onto a keyed bushing in order to attach it to a change gear:

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