Soon to be a PM-935T-S owner

Glitch,
I am a hobbyist, but I retire in 2 years and 2 months. I am really looking forward to spending many, many hours playing with my 935 and the PM 1236 lathe.

Like you I got tired looking at worn out mills here for top dollar. I didn't want a project, I wanted something to use.

Rick
 
I am just taking up metal work as a hobby, as you get older you need safer hobbies! I like the idea of just being able make yourself a new part when the old one breaks. I picked up another welder today so my little shop is really getting cramped now. I was looking at picking up a milling machine locally but all the ones I found were old and heavy! As well they were all around the $3,500 to $4,000 range. I was going to get the PM-45 but I liked the idea of a compact knee mill.
 
Good choice but do have a look at the 932 as well. It has power table and also power Z axis -which is a real life saver. BTW: The heads on those machines are identical. Only differences are the castings to accommodate different power feeds and available with different options.

Also, be apprised that the PM (quality machine tool) version are the only ones where the heads are identical. Other vendors have slightly different guts. Also the PM machines have hardened/balanced gears -also not found on most of the other brands.

Ray


Sparkymacker said:
I am just taking up metal work as a hobby, as you get older you need safer hobbies! I like the idea of just being able make yourself a new part when the old one breaks. I picked up another welder today so my little shop is really getting cramped now. I was looking at picking up a milling machine locally but all the ones I found were old and heavy! As well they were all around the $3,500 to $4,000 range. I was going to get the PM-45 but I liked the idea of a compact knee mill.
Click to expand...
 
Glitch said:
...Are you hobbiest? Machine shop? Specific hobby?...
Click to expand...

I just opened up a new business building custom 1911s. I've gone about as far as I can go with files and a drill. Time to up the capabilities just a bit.
 
Guys,
I have two PM machines I am talking to Matt about.
The PM-935T-S mill and the PM-1440E-LB lathe.
Matt sent me a list of accessories and I pretty much selected everything.
I was especially impressed with the single phase 220 input VFD that provides variable speed control for the three phase motors. Heavier motors than I expected.

Observation:

The Hitachi WJ200-022SF VFD rated at 3 HP is the same for both machines.

The motors in the machines are 3 HP three phase.
This is the max HP for this model VFD.
Are the Hitachi VFDs rated conservatively?


Is it advisable to upgrade to the Hitachi WJ200-037LF VFD rated at 5 HP for these 3 HP motors?
The cost difference is negligible if the 5 HP unit would provide superior performance, programming features, and reliability.

Anyone else have some practical experience or opinion?

Regards,

Ted

 
Guys,

After clearing room for the lathe I noticed a severe incline to the cement floor in the garage.
2 to 3 inches over six feet.

I am thinking of the following remedy.
Steel plates a few inches wider than the cast iron base at each end.
Bolt the cast iron base on top of the plates through the provided holes.
Provide jack screws on the wings of the plates beyond the base to level the plates and thereby the lathe.
This would permit the cast iron lathe base to fully contact a supporting surface.
Unintended consequences include a very tall lathe.

I do not want to use jack screws only in the provided base holes.
I believe this would produce significant pressure in a small area of the cast iron.
Over time resulting in stress cracks and failure.

Anyone else have to overcome a similar leveling issue?
Is there a simple and practical remedy?

Regards,

Ted
 
Hello Ted,

Your idea will work, but it may feel awkward if you are standing on a slope while using a level machine. If I were you, I would lay out the area where the lathe will sit as well as a few feet in front of the lathe where you will work from. On the downhill sides, install a temporary dam of sufficient height to bring to level, then pour self-leveling concrete over the area. Make sure that you add the appropiate amount of water for it to flow to level. It needs a little help with a trowel to spread, but then let it find its way. Let it cure for at least a few days before installing the lathe. You will still have to level the lathe with shims, or whatever method you prefer, but this will give you a nice surface to start from. If the abrupt edges are a tripping hazard, mix up more levelling concrete to a thicker consistency and fair those spots in.

I hope that this helps. :)

Brian
 
Hello Brian,

Yes I thought about doing this.
Unfortunately the layout is projected to have the lathe and the mill face each other.
The space is only 10.5 feet wide and eight feet long.
The rest of the garage is filled with woodworking machines.

If I need this level concrete under both machines it will leave a sunken path of only 2 to 3 feet wide.
As for standing...since the lathe will be elevated I was considering a wooden platform raised a few inches and level with the lathe. Wood is easier to stand on. Maybe a rubber mat would be better.

I hinted at expanding into the family room and she gave me that look.

Regards,

Ted
 
VTX1800 said:
Hello Brian,

Yes I thought about doing this.
Unfortunately the layout is projected to have the lathe and the mill face each other.
The space is only 10.5 feet wide and eight feet long.
The rest of the garage is filled with woodworking machines.

If I need this level concrete under both machines it will leave a sunken path of only 2 to 3 feet wide.
As for standing...since the lathe will be elevated I was considering a wooden platform raised a few inches and level with the lathe. Wood is easier to stand on. Maybe a rubber mat would be better.

I hinted at expanding into the family room and she gave me that look.

Regards,

Ted
Click to expand...


Oh....... the withering look..... * sigh * .... us mere mortals cannot defy such a look without the possibility of turning into a pillar of salt....:yikes:

I really like your idea of a wooden platform to overcome this. It seems to me that in a lot of older machine shops that this was common practice, regardless of the level of the floor. I have thought of doing that very same thing at my milling machine because the drawbar for the head is so darned high and I have a heel that bothers me when I stand too long on concrete.\

Show us some pics when you get things in place.

Brian
 
VTX1800 said:
Guys,

After clearing room for the lathe I noticed a severe incline to the cement floor in the garage.
2 to 3 inches over six feet.

I am thinking of the following remedy.
Steel plates a few inches wider than the cast iron base at each end.
Bolt the cast iron base on top of the plates through the provided holes.
Provide jack screws on the wings of the plates beyond the base to level the plates and thereby the lathe.
This would permit the cast iron lathe base to fully contact a supporting surface.
Unintended consequences include a very tall lathe.

I do not want to use jack screws only in the provided base holes.
I believe this would produce significant pressure in a small area of the cast iron.
Over time resulting in stress cracks and failure.

Anyone else have to overcome a similar leveling issue?
Is there a simple and practical remedy?

Regards,

Ted
Click to expand...

The simple and practical solution is to use the leveling feet in the holes provided in the lathe base. You are dividing the load over (6) points so the actual point load on each one is negligible. The only reason I would build a contraption like you are proposing is if you wanted to gain height in the case of a mill for comfortable working height.
 
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