Stick or Post Frame Shop

No way prices can stay there for long. If I had larger cojones I would short that market.
 
Just picked up some lumber to build some work benches for the new shop. Talk about sticker shock. 1/2" plywood was 26 bucks a sheet. It was selling for 10 bucks beginning of summer.
 
That makes the labor I put into reclaiming wood from my neighbors garage look worthwhile.
 
Bit late to this thread...

I ordered a 40x60x14 post barn from the best builder in the area for $41K this spring. they finished about a month ago. here in the north we have pretty good specs for snow load and deep post footings for frost. Could have got it nearly 20% less from the cheapest builder. but ya gets what ya pays for.

My neighbor's shop burned to the ground 4 days ago. lost everything in it. he works for himself in HVAC. Just started the business 10 months ago.

Sounds like he can not replace the structure at any price before freeze up this year.
 
Oh man that's sad. Wasn't Brian Zeglen I hope.
Steve Nelson or Kenny Grimm.
Best builders in our area.
 
I have built post and beam and stick built structures. Pole barns are not the same as post and beam. Pole barns are inadequate for a shop, machine, wood etc. Ceilings are too high, insulating is a problem and siding needs a lot of preparation to make it look straight. I have sided pole barns but not installed the poles and timbers. Because the poles are not in a line due to the difficulty of setting poles in a hole and in a line.
If the poles are set fairly close together then the horizonal 2x4's may need minimal packing to get it straight.
Often the poles are 10'-0" or more apart. This presents a problem for the siding crew. I installed vertical 4x6's in between the poles and horizontal members nailed to it. Bottom of 4x6 bolted to concrete floor with an angle iron. Top of the 4x6 done similarly.
I do not know what the cost would be as I did the siding and framed and sheathed the roof only.
My own shop is stick built in 1997. It is 20'x30' and 8-0 ceilings. I sided the studs with 7/16" OSB inside and out. Inside I screwed the smooth side to the studs. I never painted the walls as the rustic look appealed to me. I have 9 windows on the first floor so I get plenty of light.
I have 120 volt and 220 volt receptacles on the wall and two on the floor. Cost was $9000.00 at that time, I recall 7/16" OSB around $5 /$6 then.
Naturally you can't compare costs from 1997 til today.
Post and beam construction is fine too. I have worked on historical homes that were framed this way. Studs were odd sizes ,about 2/3" x 4/5" .
Studs had a tenon that went into mortise and held tight with a draw peg.
 
7milesup said:
Well, whichever way you go you won't regret plywood on the wall, that is for sure. I have been installing cabinets and other stuff in my shop and it sure is nice not to have to find a stud.
Click to expand...
Ditto - 100%.
 
Guys. I will need to cut some holes in my new shop. Exhaust for the boiler and if I put in a minisplit next spring that will be more. I'd also like to do an exhaust fan but I'm thinking an air purifier would take care of stinky burning cutting oil and also take grit out of the air from grinding. Maybe an outdoor light, etc.
My question, is there a proper way to drill through the wall without ruining your vapor barrier and bat insulation? I've considered spray foam mainly because it would be so much more clean but realized that is silly since it will cost three times more and I am not wealthy.
 
@ddickey, the vapor barrier can be repaired with Tyvek tape. Nothing to worry about there. You will be required by fire code to dam all penetrations with fire foam and/or flashing. Yep, the first hole hurts the most, but it gets easier.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top