Switch wiring - Jet 8 X 18 mill

Re: Capacitor questions

Froneck said:
Hi Jim Can you do the same to the Mill motor, You should not have to disconnect any wires, test all the motor wires the same way. I want to see which winding has lower resistance.
Frank
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Here are the results Frank:

white-black=4.0
white-red=18.5

black-white=4.0
black-red=14.5

red-white=18.5
red-black=14.5

Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

Frank, remember I did one test with a light bulb in series with the motor capacitor and the motor hummed but did not run. You told me that apparently the light bulb was too much resistance and had me take the light bulb out of the circuit. Without the light bulb the motor would run. Don't you think that we would run into this same situation on the latest test you are suggesting? I will wait to hear back from you before I do this latest test. Also, in case I do the test, is R either leg of a power cord and S the other leg? Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

Frank, I think I get it. Four light bulbs have less resistance than one light bulb. OK now I'm looking at my notes from previously doing that test and if I am going to do Low Speed Reverse, then I believe the circuits should be S-X1-nms C and 4 parallel light bulbs as one circuit and the other is R-Z-X2. Is this correct? Jim
 
Re: Capacitor questions

Froneck said:
Hi Jim
S-X1 and 4 parallel light bulbs as one circuit Other side4 parallel light bulbs -nms C is another R-Z-X2 is the third.
Your not connecting nms C to S-X1 one side of the 4 Bulbs is connected to S-X1. Other wire from 4 bulbs is connected to nms C
nms C is getting power from S thru the bulbs so it can't be connected to S-X1.

Frank
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Just so I have this straight Frank, I have made two simple harnesses that are each two wires with each pair connected on one end. The connected ends go into R for one circuit and S for the other. So the R circuit with my harness has one lead connecting to Z and the other lead connecting to X2. Now I assume the S circuit with my harness has one wire connecting to X1. Does the other harness wire of the S circuit connect to one end of the four parallel blubs with the other end of the four parallel bulbs connecting to nms Cap? Jim
 
Hi Frank,

I set up to do the light bulb test with four bulbs parallel and these are the results:

The first time I plugged in my test circuit the motor ran with little or no hesitation. All four lights started out a little less than full illumination for only a split second and then came fully bright. It ran for a minute or so and then I shut it down. To make sure I was aware of all that was happening, I plugged in my power again. This time the motor would only hum so I immediately unplugged it. I waited a few minutes, turned the motor to a new location using the pulley, and tried power one more time but the motor only hummed so I stopped there.

Jim
 
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Froneck said:
Hi Jim When you tested is a second time, did the lights come on?

Frank
Click to expand...

Frank, I was afraid that you were going to ask me that. I think that it was so unexpected that the motor hummed instead of running since it had just run. When I had finished the three attempts (one running and two humming), I could totally recall what the lights did on the first attempt but not on the two motor humming attempts. So, since you did ask the question, I did the test one more time (a fourth time hours later). This time nothing at all happened. The motor didn't hum and the lights didn't light. I only plugged it in and immediately unplugged it when nothing happened. I hope I haven't permanently damaged anything. Jim
 
Hi Frank,

The reason I got nothing at all was because my R and S connections were not totally reliable. I have improved those connections and now when I do the test with the bulbs in circuit, the bulbs light but the motor only hums. Without the lights in circuit, the motor runs as before. When I talked about damaging a part, my concern was more about switches within the motor rather than motor coils expecially if those switches are solid state.

Jim
 
Hi Frank,

Besides giving a motor shop the motor, the spare switch, the wiring diagram for the motor, and the wiring schematic for the switch, is there anything else I should tell them or show them?

Jim
 
Frank, I do appreciate your help but I probably won't pull the motor off for a while since it does operate in the low range which is the most frequently used range. I will get some projects out of the way, contact some motor shops, and then take the motor off. Thanks again, Jim
 
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