Wanting to power a lead screw

Well, Got the Box all wired up, and Nothing!
Checked other (new) kbic-120 board . Nothing.
Tested MC-60 board Nothing.
WTH. OK, cant be 3 bad boards can it?
So had my MC-60 board hooked up, trying to check A+ with a volt meter, Tired, careless, couldn't see real good ............BAM...........
Shorted my meter lead to the chassis.
Scared the ##)) out of me.
Decide to test Pot, Bad!
Thanks (in part) to The bad POT from Radio shack, I fried my MC-60 board.
Got another pot wired up, both used and new kbic-120 are working, reverse switch only had one direction.
Off to radio shack to change out the Pot and DPDT switch, It was a Bad DPDT switch too.
But at least it is working now.
Bummer I fried My MC-60 though.
Don't know if it is worth trying to fix. I don't know too much about electronics.
Maybe if I see something obviously burned up, I can try replacing it.
I got this one for $35.00 shipped, but he raised then to $45.00 shipped.
I would say test all pots and switches before installing from now on.
 
Actually looks like I shorted the L2 terminal to the chassis, Not the A+ .
Any Idea what part that would have fried?
 
Question, For your D/C motor set ups, for you DPDT switches for reverse, are you guys just using a regular DPDT switch say from radio shack,
(The radio Shack switch is said to be "Rated 20 amps at 12VDC")
http://www.radioshack.com/dpdt-20-amp-flip-switch/2750710.html#.VRlyX-FTmSo
or are you using some type of heavy duty D/C rated DPDT switch?

Or these ones on e bay are said to be rated , 20 amp @ 125 volts A/C.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291254788963?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
and if using about a 20 amp @ 125 Volt A/C switch, are they holding up OK?
I have been turning off My power before changing direction.

This one on e bay already has the jumpers built in, and is said to be rated 30 amps, @ 12 VDC.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160140769301?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I had read the A/C rated switches are not the same amperage using them for D/C.
But then read the damage was done when turning off the switch, due to arcing.
But then I thought if I am turning off my power before reversing, I should not get any arcing.
But wonder if these switches are heave enough to carry the motor running load?
 
DSCN0190 save.jpg DSCN0190 save 2.jpg here is the board, can anyone tell just where the open might be.
I don't get any lights when l power up the board.
 
Got the MC-60 fixed. Refer to picture below.
I checked a KBIC-120 board I have, and there were 2 diodes near L1 and L2 that looked just like the 2 on the MC-60 board, and there was 0 resistance between 1 side of each diode and 1 A/C (and only one a/c tab) for each respective diode, So I figured that almost had to be it, and took a chance and bridged L1 and D3 and L2 and D4 (shown on the photo below.)
lt seems to work fine. I got a little sloppy on the bottom one, and see the spot right above D4?
I kind of bridged into that. But looking at the Schematic again, It already is tied into that spot. , it is one side of the MOV.
Pretty good job for knowing next to nothing about electronics....................LOL

DSCN0190%20L1%20L2_zpslxnawmza.jpg
 
Be sure they don't sell you pots that are designed for audio use. They if I remember correctly can't handle heavy amperage. I didn't see any bad solder joints in your photos. I hope you got it working.
 
They were the one I was told here to get, I found them on line, and wrote the # down. Linnier, (sp) IIRC they were the type.
Radio Shack number was/is 271-1714 it's a 5 K pot.
It was open between L1 and D3 and L2 and D4.
But the 1st pot was defective, Nothing would work, and why I was checking for voltage, when I shorted L2 to the Heat Sink.
 
Got a few controllers, ( KBIC -120's )I am fooling around with, was getting erratic running out of the DC motor when I would move the pot around.
Testing with a meter across the outside terminals, I was also getting erratic readings when moving the wires ant the pot.
I cut my wires off and had all three on the meter, wiggling them around, they (the wires) seem OK, Tested with a pot that came with a merrimac motor controller, (It's actually a 10K pot, ) But testing that pot with the meter, it seemed OK.
And testing that pot on the boards, the motor works properly.
This looks like the 2nd bad pot I have gotten from Radio Shack So Far. the 1st. bad one helping me to burn up the MC-60.
had it not been bad, I would not have been trying to test the board, and shorted the L2 lead.
Is there a better place to buy these 5K linear pots from?
 
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