Well... I finally did it. PM-833TV (now in my shop!)

Skowinski said:
So, a couple of you have mentioned impact wrenches to tighten the drawbar (and presumably, also loosen it). I can understand how one might work fine. But, what torque setting is used?

Obviously you don't want to overtighten it too much, and undertightening it will quickly lead to a problem... I like to use torque wrenches.
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With the small Bosch electric impact driver that I use now it it is hard to torque way too much as you can feel it and see the rotation. It works very well and I don't have to hold the splined shaft.

I am planning in the future (when I am done with higher priority shop projects) to install a pneumatic wrench but for now the impact driver is working very well for me.
 
You should go ahead and make two plywood covers for the left and right side of the table, fitted around the vice. Trust me ;-)
I wish I had made mine a decade earlier!!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
Yes, was just looking at the table the other day and thinking I need to make some kind of covers, before the inevitable happens and I drop something on it....
 
Skowinski said:
I understand that, after so many years of torquing fasteners I'd bet my arm is calibrated to +/-15% or so.

Just seen way too many destroyed fasteners, broken off bolts down inside the hole they thread into, stripped threads that resulted in hours of work to repair...... so anyway, just snug it up good is the ticket for a drawbar? If it's motorcycles, I'm a blackbelt. But, machine shop work, ummm... I just stepped onto the mat for the first time. :D
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I snug the drawbar, then give it a short, quick pull to tighten. Larger end mills and/or if I'm taking heavier cuts I'll give the wrench an extra pull.

I have good collets (PM Ultra Precision set), and buy as good a quality end mills as I can afford. I figure that over tightening could possibly do as much or more damage than too little tightening. I could be wrong, and maybe I'll find out some day. ;)
 
NC Rick said:
A really cool Suzuki in there too!
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3 Suzukis in the shop, a 96 DR350S, an 04 Hayabusa, and a 79 GS1000S. The GS is about to start a crankshaft up restoration back to original condition.

And, some of the first chips! Still haven't trammed the head, or indicated the vise, just playing around with a block of aluminum.

Cut.jpg
 
Chips are good! I remember when the GS was just in the dealers and I wanted one in the worst way! I have had some DR 350s and presently own a couple DR650s. Motor bikes and machine tools. Life is good. Congratulations!
 
Finally got around to checking the tram on this 833. Been so busy around this new house and shop it took 2 months to get to this, uggh. This is the first time I've trammed a mill.

On the x-axis I lowered the tool until about 0.100" showing, picked a point on the table, zeroed one indicator, rotated the device to put the other indicator in the same spot and zeroed it. I raised the device, lowered it again until one indicator was zero and read the other one - looks like I'm off by about 6 thousandths over 6 inches. I guess that's not too bad, a thou per inch, but probably should try to get it closer.

Tram X.jpg
I

Then rotated to check the y-axis. Went through the same procedure and looks like this is out about 4 thousandths over 6 inches. Since this is a bench mill the only way to fix this is to shim the column I guess, but I'm wondering if this amount is worth it?

Tram Y.jpg
 
Skowinski said:
I guess that's not too bad, a thou per inch, but probably should try to get it closer.
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It is pretty easy to bring it to zero on the X axis, just release the nuts and rotate it to zero. It will move as you tighten the nuts but you can get it very close after few iterations. 1 mil per inch is 20 mil over 20 inch, I think it is too much. I adjusted my PM833 to very close to zero.

Skowinski said:
Then rotated to check the y-axis. Went through the same procedure and looks like this is out about 4 thousandths over 6 inches. Since this is a bench mill the only way to fix this is to shim the column I guess, but I'm wondering if this amount is worth it?
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You can shim the vice on the Y axis and take away the slight error. Shiming the column looks to me like a very extensive hit and miss job.

Good luck!
Ariel
 
ahazi said:
It is pretty easy to bring it to zero on the X axis, just release the nuts and rotate it to zero. It will move as you tighten the nuts but you can get it very close after few iterations. 1 mil per inch is 20 mil over 20 inch, I think it is too much. I adjusted my PM833 to very close to zero.


You can shim the vice on the Y axis and take away the slight error. Shiming the column looks to me like a very extensive hit and miss job.

Good luck!
Ariel
Click to expand...

Hmmm... never thought about shimming the vise. I suppose that would work the same as shimming the column.
 
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