Well... I finally did it. PM-833TV (now in my shop!)

Mr Mike said:
Just how i like my stuff clean and in order.... well except for the order part... still working on that but I like my tools clean...

Hey on another note did you fill the cement relief lines in then epoxy the floors or their just small to begin with so you can roll stuff over them without hassle... thinking of doing the same look as your floor.

Thanks Mike
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The joints between concrete sections were filled about halfway when the guys did the epoxy. Don't know what they squeezed in there, liquid cement concrete crack filler maybe.

Janderso said:
Nice shop and congratulations.
Your bikes remind me of my 1980 Yamaha XS1100 Special. Fast son of a gun. Best not go into a turn.
When I started a family, I sold it. When the kids were grown and gone, I bought a new BMW R1200 RT.
Sold it when I hit 60.
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Thanks, and get another bike! I'm 63. I'll quit riding when I can't climb on one of the damn things anymore. :chunky:
 
And.... powered it up and ran it! (hard to see from this photo but it's running at just under 400 rpms)

Running.jpg
 
Went to set up to make some first chips and discovered there is no way to hold the spindle while tightening the drawbar.... seems like a weird oversight. Can't put it in gear like the 833T model. The splines on the top of the spindle are recessed below the top of the enclosure, and don't have a wrench for it anyway. No flats on the bottom of the spindle...

Sent off an email to PM tech support, but in the meantime used a rubber jar holder to try to hold the spindle while I tightened up a 3/8 HSS end mill in the collet. Not at all satisfactory.
 
I drilled a short hole in the side of the spindle, and then made a bracket that attached to the head and held a spring loaded pin that would go into the hole of the spindle to hold it while I cranked on the drawbar to tighten a collet. When I released the pin, it backed out of the spindle automatically, and the spring kept the pin from inadvertently engaging the spindle.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. :)

I think I'm going to find the correct size spline wrench, maybe modify it. Looks like the manual for the 833T indicates it's a 28mm 6-spline wrench.

edit: maybe something like this, modify it so it can be lowered onto the spindle from the top

www.grizzly.com

Spindle Spline Wrench

Manufactured from steel, this new spline wrench was designed especially for holding the spindle spline on many Chinese made round column, square column, and other like-sized mill/drill machines and the smaller X3 sized machines. This wrench has a 28mm spline on one end for the larger machines...
www.grizzly.com www.grizzly.com
 
I set up an 833TV earlier this year, too. I tried the spline wrench but found a butterfly impact wrench works much faster. I have it on a 6' air hose from the ceiling and it's right near the drawbar so it's quick access, too.

For a power switch, I simply used toggle switch on the wall next to a separate 120v switch for lights, DRO, power feeds, etc.

I found the Shars 440 vise to have the largest opening of the 4" vises. I bought two and use both on the table if I need the extra width which I rarely do.
 
So, a couple of you have mentioned impact wrenches to tighten the drawbar (and presumably, also loosen it). I can understand how one might work fine. But, what torque setting is used?

Obviously you don't want to overtighten it too much, and undertightening it will quickly lead to a problem... I like to use torque wrenches.
 
wrmiller said:
My drawbar torque wrench is my arm. Hasn't failed me yet. :)
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I understand that, after so many years of torquing fasteners I'd bet my arm is calibrated to +/-15% or so.

Just seen way too many destroyed fasteners, broken off bolts down inside the hole they thread into, stripped threads that resulted in hours of work to repair...... so anyway, just snug it up good is the ticket for a drawbar? If it's motorcycles, I'm a blackbelt. But, machine shop work, ummm... I just stepped onto the mat for the first time. :D
 
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