What have you done in your shop lately?

I recently learned the fascinating info about files, here is the link for newbies like me:

Nicholson file guide

Yeah the File Filosophy book is great :)

I've found I enjoy file work. Keep buying more files and taking on more manual projects. It all kinda started when I was deburring some stock cut on the bandsaw - just kept going, a half-hour later the piece was finished.
 
Heading up to the Adirondacks for a couple days in an hour to open up camp . I'm a month later than usual due to my work schedule and SNOW so I'm hoping the black flies aren't going to eat me alive . When I get back it will be sell sell sell time and hopefully will be able to set up a small shop with minimal machines and tooling . My daughter may be moving back home next week after 7 years away at college so some things have to find a new home . Anyways , the dogs are ready for some camping fun and food , they really enjoy being able to run the woods , and I need a few days away from work . :encourage:

( not that camping primitive isn't work , I bust my butt just to eat ) :big grin:
 
Don't have pics right now but I am making a new aluminum quick change gear box lever for my 12" Craftsman lathe. Both of the originals were broken. I have replacement's bought on flea bay but I want to finish what I started. It is all roughed out at this point. Will post pics when I get back from my nieces wedding.

While I am working on my aluminum version I did manage to buy two non-matching handles off that auction site so I can get the qcgb back on and functional. Here are pics of the two replacement's plus the two I am fabbing.
 

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Here's something I've been working on for a bit. Didn't do any machining on it today (yesterday, yes) but took the photo today. While it's one of the more precision things I've done as a relatively inexperienced machine-er (I won't claim the title of 'machinist') it is far from much of what I've seen here. In my defense, it's an idea being explored -- revealing a number of shortcomings, some obvious some not-so. I don't want to engage in a "what is it" quiz because that would likely degrade pretty quickly. So, the reveal is: it's an experimental sine table combined with a shallow-jaw vise so I can machine some tapers for yet another experiment.

295014

The sine table is made of 6061 because I had it on hand. The sine table is on the upper left, showing two drilled brass cylinders resting in vees so they can rotate as the table is raised. The contact portions of the vees were cut with a carbide 45 degree router bit. Underneath, two more brass rolls in vees. Spaced 5 inches apart. One of the problems with this design: Placing the hold-downs (meant to screw into a tooling plate I made) on the outside of the bottom rolls can bend the center of the table up, so tapers won't be linear if the bolts are tightened too much. I KNOW this because I checked (after I thought about it)! Placing the hold downs on the other side of the rolls can produce bend in the opposite direction so the next version will have the top and bottom rolls coincident, hopefully eliminating most problems due to hold down forces bending the table. The bottom rolls will be modified to accommodate -- either cut shorter, or machined with holes so the bolts can pass through them. I think holes are better so the table can't bend on the other axis.

I drilled/tapped two holes in the sine table-top to mount a sacrificial "fixed jaw", made of hot-rolled steel. The vertical face of the jaw was milled flat, but not ground or scraped. I don't have a surface grinder and have no clue on how to scrape something only .125" wide. On the other hand, I'm aiming at making some tapered gibs so that is not a real issue anyway.

In the lower right portion of the photo is the "moveable jaw" of the vise portion. 1/8" thick, the horizontal portion is sacrificial hardware store aluminum and is bolted down to a .5" square piece of HRS. The side of the sine table was drilled/tapped to accept three 10-24 mounting bolts, and the HRS was clearance-drilled and counter-sunk to match. At that point, the HRS piece was bolted to the sine table and both were milled until mutually flat. I rotated the table up 90 degrees and drilled two more holes on each side of the moveable jaw's center screw, and reamed them for a press fit to two 3/16" x 1" dowel pins (shown projecting out of the sine table). I later reamed the HRS piece for a clearance fit for the dowels. They were meant to keep the moveable jaw from rotating as it is tightened against work. The 3 horizontal screws are used to clamp the work. Issues here, see below.

So another problem is lift of the moveable jaw due to over-tightening of the 3 screws (due to flex of the dowel pins). I tried to minimize this by making a jaw that is just-barely wide enough to accommodate the material I want to machine (so the dowel pins have maximum contact with the jaw), but they are just two 3/16" pins seated .5" into the sine table. Not super rigid. But this IS a trial run -- eventually I need to make a larger one so I can make some 5" long tapered gibs, and this one isn't long enough for that. But is IS long enough to try making tapered gibs for the Y axis of my mini mill.

A second, longer, version may have more pins to improve the rigidity of the moveable jaw (but see concerns below). I think I also will make the sine table taller (in the Y axis) so I can put some bolts in to prevent the moveable jaw from lifting up with regard to the table -- with careful adjustment, that should keep the moveable jaw from lifting. My current version is too small to accommodate them. Oh well....

A final issue is that, while the moveable jaw DOES slide onto the dowel pins there is about zero tolerance for misalignment. To move the jaw up to the work I have to wiggle it down, pushing one side down then the other. Pulling it back is even more problematic. I thought the sharp edges between the holes and exterior surfaces might be digging into the pins and relieved them with a conical grinder bit, but that didn't make any difference.

So the plan for now is to make the table wider and deeper, so I can make longer gibs. Steel would be better than aluminum, but I need to check what I've got in that category. The table hold downs and bottom rolls will be coincident. And I will include 2-3 top bolts to keep the moveable jaw from lifting up as it is tightened against the work. Hopefully I can stick with just two dowel pins -- I'm concerned that 4 pins (the most likely increment) will introduce difficult or impossible tolerance requirements when it comes to installing the moveable jaw.
 
Got my digital readout today for the mill. I also played with treadmill parts.
Do any other out there find treadmill parts, especially from pro units, useful? Motors, threased rods, roller bars.
 
I just got a new to me lathe and needed a tool setting height gauge. I saw a video with Joe Pie where he had a cylinder with a block on one end...kind of interesting. He had some application for it that I don't recall, but it seemed that a simple version would be a good height gauge. I just turned a piece a few inches long of arbitrary diameter, then stuck it in the mill, measured the diameter exactly and removed half of the cross section on one end. Now when I chuck this in the three jaw, the middle of the piece is right on the center of rotation, and with the flat area, it's easy to tell by feel (rub a fingernail) or sight when the tool height is correct.

It only takes a few minutes to make this, and it works well for me.
 

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If you make it the correct length you can stand it up next to your tool and check tool height with stock in the chuck. I'm always changing tools with my material already chucked.
I also stick a long true strait rod in my tail stocks drill bit holder with a pointed end and indicate tool height that way sometimes.
I like how you made a flat rather than a point, safety first:)
 
Yes on treadmills having useful parts..if a knob for speed control it has mc30-40-60 controller.get pro-commercial if you can..very nice large DC motors..3-4 hp..or 3 phase name brand motors.you have to look at treadmill manual to find hp rating. Most are tagged special..rods and bearings rollers are mounted on.much metal to repurpose ..I started off getting any I could..now kinda picky.will goggle manual.check hp and what kind of motor and controller.if it's a good brand it won't last long on Craig's list
 
Did my 1st paid job in my hobby shop on the lathe. I think I put in at least 10 hours for the 50$...lol Paid to learn is the way I see it.
Made a chess pc out of stainless damascus steel.

Turned a few rockets and used a center drill to mill the fins in a tool holder on the lathe...redneck as all can be but worked out, kinda like my tail stock taper in my spindle to hold the ER collet chuck.

Now if I could figure out how to make a small dividing head, I could perfectly space my fins.IMG_6047.JPG
 

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Finished the platforms for my HF 1000 lb hydraulic cart. Platforms are on linear slides that extend out beyond the edge of the front by about 7 ". Increased the height that the table can reach to about 43" enabling me to easily get to the mill bed as well as the bed of my Chevy 2500 tailgate for loading or unloading.
 
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