2014 POTD Thread Archive

[savarin]

Made 6 of these,

to replace 6 of these that are way too loose to tighten up to stop them leaking.

to make up 6 of these

to go in here to even out the water delivery to the aquaponic garden.


Now I can just pop the taps out the pipe work for easy cleaning.
I ground the internal thread tool but as the compound was inline with the cross slide and I was in a hurry I just wound out the cross slide to cut the thread on both sides of the bit. I got away with it I think because of the plastic.

 

[12bolts]

Nice work Charles

Cheers Phil

 

[f350ca]

Hi, thanks for commenting. Not sure what you mean by the section with no joists. There are 2x6 rafters on 2 foot centres resting on the beams. Three 6x6,s tie the those beams together to stop them spreading. Yes on the rear section the rafters run from the outside to the centre, they rest on two beams then tie to the ones coming up from the other side.

Greg

 

[epanzella]

Hi, thanks for commenting. Not sure what you mean by the section with no joists. There are 2x6 rafters on 2 foot centres resting on the beams. Three 6x6,s tie the those beams together to stop them spreading. Yes on the rear section the rafters run from the outside to the centre, they rest on two beams then tie to the ones coming up from the other side.

Greg

Hi Greg,
You're roof pitch is relatively shallow, maybe 4 or 5 inches per foot. With shallow pitch the forces trying to cam apart the walls go up exponentially. Traditionally these forces are countered by joists tying the bases of opposite rafters together making it impossible for them to spread and therefore making it impossible for the ridge to sag. Your construction (so far) does not counter these forces at the point of origin but instead are countering them by tying the walls together with beams about three feet lower. (unless there's something I can't see in the picture). This puts the roof load on the birdsmouthes at the rafter ends and then in turn onto the three feet of unsupported wall above the cross beams. Although this might OK, over time it's likely to cause movement of the rafter contact with the wall and/or bowing of the unsupported portion of the wall, resulting in a sag in the ridge board. I'm sure you've seen roof lines with a sag in the middle like an old horse headed for the glue factory. These are the things that contribute to that. You're doing a beautiful job with strong materials but giving up some stability by omitting a few simple parts. You can either put a few joists across the rafter ends or (what I would do) put a post on top of that horizontal beam on the end to hold up the ridge directly. I'm guessing there's two more horizontal beams, one in the middle and one on the far end that don't show in the picture. Put posts on them too. It would add a lot of strength while still matching the style of the structure. Again, beautiful job and good luck.

 

[JT.]

had some time to kill so i made me a floating reamer pusher

 

[zmotorsports]

had some time to kill so i made me a floating reamer pusher

Beautiful work. Can I ask what material you used for this?

Thanks.

 

[12bolts]

Hi Greg,
You're roof pitch is relatively shallow, maybe 4 or 5 inches per foot. With shallow pitch the forces trying to cam apart the walls go up exponentially. Traditionally these forces are countered by joists tying the bases of opposite rafters together making it impossible for them to spread and therefore making it impossible for the ridge to sag. Your construction (so far) does not counter these forces at the point of origin but instead are countering them by tying the walls together with beams about three feet lower. (unless there's something I can't see in the picture). This puts the roof load on the birdsmouthes at the rafter ends and then in turn onto the three feet of unsupported wall above the cross beams. Although this might OK, over time it's likely to cause movement of the rafter contact with the wall and/or bowing of the unsupported portion of the wall, resulting in a sag in the ridge board. I'm sure you've seen roof lines with a sag in the middle like an old horse headed for the glue factory. These are the things that contribute to that. You're doing a beautiful job with strong materials but giving up some stability by omitting a few simple parts. You can either put a few joists across the rafter ends or (what I would do) put a post on top of that horizontal beam on the end to hold up the ridge directly. I'm guessing there's two more horizontal beams, one in the middle and one on the far end that don't show in the picture. Put posts on them too. It would add a lot of strength while still matching the style of the structure. Again, beautiful job and good luck.

epanzella, I am not going to comment on your theory as I am not a builder, however I have seen a number of threads by f350ca and the knowledge and workmanship he displays in other similar constructions leads me to believe he has some experience in what he is doing.

Cheers Phil

 

[f350ca]

Hi Greg,
You're roof pitch is relatively shallow, maybe 4 or 5 inches per foot. With shallow pitch the forces trying to cam apart the walls go up exponentially. Traditionally these forces are countered by joists tying the bases of opposite rafters together making it impossible for them to spread and therefore making it impossible for the ridge to sag. Your construction (so far) does not counter these forces at the point of origin but instead are countering them by tying the walls together with beams about three feet lower. (unless there's something I can't see in the picture). This puts the roof load on the birdsmouthes at the rafter ends and then in turn onto the three feet of unsupported wall above the cross beams. Although this might OK, over time it's likely to cause movement of the rafter contact with the wall and/or bowing of the unsupported portion of the wall, resulting in a sag in the ridge board. I'm sure you've seen roof lines with a sag in the middle like an old horse headed for the glue factory. These are the things that contribute to that. You're doing a beautiful job with strong materials but giving up some stability by omitting a few simple parts. You can either put a few joists across the rafter ends or (what I would do) put a post on top of that horizontal beam on the end to hold up the ridge directly. I'm guessing there's two more horizontal beams, one in the middle and one on the far end that don't show in the picture. Put posts on them too. It would add a lot of strength while still matching the style of the structure. Again, beautiful job and good luck.

Hi
Once again thanks for the comments and pointers. Now I see what you mean. The roof is only 3 - 12 pitch, lowest pitch roof I think I ever made, didn't want to get the centre too high. I lowered the front cross beam to close in the front some, no plan on doors, the middle and back one tie into the beam. Think your right, I'll probably opt for joists to tie the front section together. With the rear rafters sitting on two beams and only cantilevering 4 feet in the middle I can't see them sagging, can you? The post in the middle of the beam would look better but be a bear to mortise in now that its 9 feet up in the air and the scaffolding is put away.
Thanks for the help, we need it,
Greg

 

[f350ca]

epanzella, I am not going to comment on your theory as I am not a builder, however I have seen a number of threads by f350ca and the knowledge and workmanship he displays in other similar constructions leads me to believe he has some experience in what he is doing.

Cheers Phil

Thanks for the vote of confidence Phil but trust me I need and appreciate all the help I can get.

Greg

 

[epanzella]

epanzella, I am not going to comment on your theory as I am not a builder, however I have seen a number of threads by f350ca and the knowledge and workmanship he displays in other similar constructions leads me to believe he has some experience in what he is doing.

Cheers Phil

I am a builder for 30 years. One of my jobs got an 8 page spread in the Feb 2001 issue of REMODELING magazine. Members of this forum help me nearly every day in my bumbling attempts at being a machinist. I'm not looking to step on any toes but am just trying give something back to the forum in an area I do know something about. Isn't that why we're here?