2014 POTD Thread Archive

[jumps4]

I modified my HF spot welder. the original tips threaded into the arms and the threads were worn out. it would not get a good connection between the tip and arm and just melt the tip. I made new tips and an adapter for quick removal to sharpen them. after over 100 spot welds the tips are showing no wear. The aluminum is acting like a heat sink and the tip barely gets hot beyond the point. it's a bit bulkier and the tips are a bit long but for tight spots i'll use shorter tips. I also installed a roll pin in the handle, the original pin worked loose and would fall out. this thing welds better now than it ever did, very fast and hot. I guess the tips were always a connection problem
steve

 

[Hawkeye]

Not just today's work. I'm working toward making a threading dial for my Storebro lathe. 4tpi leadscrew. I messed up the only brass washer I had, so I decided to cut the gear out of 3/16" ABS plastic. If anyone wants to get into making gears, I recommend trying it first in plastic. It's really easy to cut and will prove or disprove your setup and the shape of your cutter.

The dividing head was tilted to 5[SUP]o[/SUP] to allow for the helix of the leascrew. 16 teeth on the gear.


It fits the leadscrew well. There isn't much stress in turning the dial, so plastic should give good service.


Today's job was to finish a spindle nut I started yesterday. Most of the tooling I use in the spindle is MT3, but the spindle is MT4. When I go to drift out the tooling, the sleeve usually lets go first. Then I have to separate the MT3 tool from the sleeve. I figured a nut would hold the sleeve while the tool is being tapped out.


If I loosen the nut a turn or two, the sleeve should loosen first, then the tool can be released. After that, removing the nut will allow the sleeve to be removed.

 

[Syaminab]

I can make you a stamping die to make thousands per day!

Yesterday I made a few hundred little brass thingies. Not sure what they are for, just making them to spec.

I am using my friend's CNC router because my mill spindle speed is too slow (4500 rpm) and I haven't finished my z-axis conversion yet. I will build a high speed spindle system for my mill when I get the rest of the conversion done. It wasn't practical to laser or water jet cut these parts.


Brass widgets:



Material: 24 GA, 260 half-hard brass
Taped to 3/4 inch MDF with carpet tape
Tool: 30 deg taper, half-round engraving tool, 0.125 dia, solid carbide
Machining: Spindle 18,000 RPM, Feed 10 IPM, Depth of Cut = 0.025. I would prefer 30,000 RPM, then I could feed at 15 IPM
Soy based cutting oil.
Run time = about 40 min / 12 inches width. That i

 

[JimDawson]

I can make you a stamping die to make thousands per day!

So could I, unfortunately I only needed about 300 pieces

 

[Walltoddj]

Quicky little project.
I actually put in some play time today and made me a nut to screw on the end of my small porta-power ram.
The plan is to eventually build it into a small C frame like you would use on ball joints and u joints.
Started with a 1 1/4" nut. Bored it out to "around" 1.43". It needed to be cut to 1 1/2" 16 tpi. Then single point threaded it in reverse on the back side. ( the chucks on there good and snug and the threads are tiny)
It's nothing special but it fits pretty good if I do say so myself. Threading's not my strong point. Thanks to everyone on here I must be improving.
Made a little video but can't seem to find it now.


Master of unfinished projects

Not a bad idea I use my 12 ton hyd press, but I have an OTC ball joint press I could adapt the hyd cyl to it. Thanks for the idea one more thing to add to my bucket list.

Todd

 

[JimDawson]

I made about 300 more brass widgets yesterday.

Used a 10 deg taper, 2 flute end mill, with a 0.003 tip. About the same size as a heavy sewing needle. Ran for about 4 hours with out a hitch. I'm surprised I didn't break a bit, but it kept going and still feels sharp.

spindle speed = 18,000 RPM, Feed= 10 IPM on straight cuts and 5 IPM on the arcs. Depth of cut 0.027

Coolant: Soy based cutting oil, just wiped on

Material: Half hard 260 brass, 24 ga



I'm still amazed that it is possible to run such a tiny tool in such a large, clunky machine.

 

[itsme_Bernie]

Not just today's work. I'm working toward making a threading dial for my Storebro lathe. 4tpi leadscrew. I messed up the only brass washer I had, so I decided to cut the gear out of 3/16" ABS plastic. If anyone wants to get into making gears, I recommend trying it first in plastic. It's really easy to cut and will prove or disprove your setup and the shape of your cutter.

The dividing head was tilted to 5[SUP]o[/SUP] to allow for the helix of the leascrew. 16 teeth on the gear.


It fits the leadscrew well. There isn't much stress in turning the dial, so plastic should give good service.
[URL="http://www.metalworkingfun.com/attachment.php?aid=7954"]

Today's job was to finish a spindle nut I started yesterday. Most of the tooling I use in the spindle is MT3, but the spindle is MT4. When I go to drift out the tooling, the sleeve usually lets go first. Then I have to separate the MT3 tool from the sleeve. I figured a nut would hold the sleeve while the tool is being tapped out.
[URL="http://www.metalworkingfun.com/attachment.php?aid=7955"]

If I loosen the nut a turn or two, the sleeve should loosen first, then the tool can be released. After that, removing the nut will allow the sleeve to be removed.

Wow Hawkeye! I look forward to seeing the finished thread dial!



Bernie

 

[Hawkeye]

Bernie, I think I'll post the whole process as a new thread when I get it done. Got the body done today. Just the shaft and markings to go.

 

[TOOLMASTER]

added a dovetail for a scope on my tripod camera/telescope head. easier to sight in long lenses :thumbsup:

 

[kizmit99]

I finally got around to building an adapter for my HF 20-ton press to push out pins and rivets...


I decided to go with a removable 3/4" slug to hold the final sized pins. But as you might notice, with 20ton vs. a .120 drill rod pin vs a Suomi rivet - the drill rod loses...
Next step will be to try hardening the pin first...