2023 Pass Around Box Mega Thread

Thanks for including pictures of the removed containers! I repacked a bunch of stuff in those because was about the only thing I could think of that I had on-hand. Its clear that they didn't make more than 2 destinations. I have mixed thoughts about the bubble wrap & paper wrap that I've seen.

I have some ideas of more durable, sub-dividable storage which stays with the PAB for common-ish stuff. But ultimately I think there's just too much in there to be able to pack it securely given the rough handling it receives.
 
Box just received would like to have seen the look on his face. Propped on the front porch. opened it up Oh by the way who had the gorilla tighten the screws. Thought I was going to break something getting a couple out. I have started looking at things. I have selected a few pieces that I want to put in. Sorry no more Old Babbitt to put in. Have to save some for my use. And I do not think the postman like it when I put a bunch in one time. Will need the info for the next person.
 
kvt said:
Oh by the way who had the gorilla tighten the screws. Thought I was going to break something getting a couple out.
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I wanted them snug, but I guess it's possible I over did it... 8^)

Some or all of the riv-nuts are aluminum, though, so galling could be factor. Maybe give it a little lube?

anBn


[That's a joke, BTW. Please don't flame me. "You can have my anti-seize when you slide it from my gold, slippy fingers."]
 
I was thinking of putting something on them. and the price they put on this stuff is like it had gold in it. Will hate it when I have to get more.
 
The repair rivnuts that I put in are carbon steel with zinc plate and Yellow-Chromate. There should not be galling.
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Are they installed, or in the repair kit? I could have sworn I saw aluminum on the one side I looked at. (I was trying to cram something in under the lip of the box and was stymied by the nut's lower half...)
 
I think the original ones were Tig welded in and i don't believe they are aluminum. I would guess they're plated similar to the repair ones. Or maybe they're polished from all the stuff hitting them during the trips around the country. All the screws have been very snug where you get that satisfying crack when they break loose!

@OCJohn - you don't know your strength! :)
 
ivel03 said:
I think the original ones were Tig welded in and i don't believe they are aluminum. I would guess they're plated similar to the repair ones. Or maybe they're polished from all the stuff hitting them during the trips around the country. All the screws have been very snug where you get that satisfying crack when they break loose!

@OCJohn - you don't know your strength! :)
Click to expand...

I think the Originals are SS and TIG’d


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Correct, the originals were SS and tig'd in place. there were some repairs done by others along the way that were AL. There was even one hole that someone repaired with a rivet in nut plate. Some holes were repaired to #10-32, the originals were all #8-32. I replaced all of the oddballs and put everything back to 8-32 There were/are still a few of the original SS nuts still left I was not going to rip them out if they were still good. That is why I put together the repair kit so anyone can replace any nuts that get damaged going forward.
 
The fundamental issue with the cover fasteners is not with the nuts. The problem is caused by using TOO LONG SCREWS that protruded into the box volume and get beaten up (threads damaged) by heavy content inadequately packaged. When a buggered screw is extracted, it damages (strips, spins, breaks the weld) the nut.
Many moons ago, I replaced all with proper length screws and made sure all the nuts were serviceable at that time.

I hope all participants find it easy enough to use the proper length (not protruding beyond the nut) screws. Years of history has made it crystal clear that consistently adequate packaging is an unrealistic expectation.
 
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