Redlineman's Logan 200 Rescue

Hey;

Yes, I colored them. Makes it much easier to differentiate between the various bits when there's a little contrast to be had.

I might creep out the purists here, but I actually use the "old" oil I drain from the race cars in the shop. It has maybe 200 miles on it or so, and is the slipperiest, clingiest stuff I've ever seen. Mobil 1 15w50, Royal Purple XRF, Brad Penn 20w50, synthetic 75w90 gear oil, and what have you. Toss some in a small jug and take it home for the machines. Use the rest in the daily driver. $5-15 a quart! If it is good enough for $50k race engines, it should work for my old machines.
 
I might creep out the purists here, but I actually use the "old" oil I drain from the race cars in the shop. It has maybe 200 miles on it or so, and is the slipperiest, clingiest stuff I've ever seen. Mobil 1 15w50, Royal Purple XRF, Brad Penn 20w50, synthetic 75w90 gear oil, and what have you. Toss some in a small jug and take it home for the machines. Use the rest in the daily driver. $5-15 a quart! If it is good enough for $50k race engines, it should work for my old machines.

I have read that EP (extreme pressure) additives used in some gear oils are corrosive to metals that are copper based (bronze, brass etc). You might want to check what's in the gear oil. Google "EP Additives Bronze" for more info.
 
No problem;

Some of the cars I'm referring to have bronze synchros in the trans, and these fluids are what is recommended for them. The mix is at least 90% engine oil anyway.
 
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Hey;

Yes, I colored them. Makes it much easier to differentiate between the various bits when there's a little contrast to be had

Reline ... that drawing modification ROCKS! You need to share (maybe in a diff post) how you did that with the original drawings. I sure know these old eyes can make out your diagram 100% better with the color. The main reason I did not tear into my spindle was because it was so hard to make out that drawing.
 
I might creep out the purists here, but I actually use the "old" oil I drain from the race cars in the shop. It has maybe 200 miles on it or so, and is the slipperiest, clingiest stuff I've ever seen. Mobil 1 15w50, Royal Purple XRF, Brad Penn 20w50, synthetic 75w90 gear oil, and what have you. Toss some in a small jug and take it home for the machines. Use the rest in the daily driver. $5-15 a quart! If it is good enough for $50k race engines, it should work for my old machines.

Man, that's just creepy! :))
 
VEEEEERY incremental progress;

I've been working through some issues. I've been ruminating on a number of things. One was the drive belt. I had finally decided on the automotive poly V belt in the 6 rib variety. Nothing available locally in the correct 40" length, so I've ordered and received a K060400 Goodyear and installed it.
That mystery hole in the back gear shifter finally did bug me enough to change it out. Fortunately, I purchased a complete spare headstock off of ebay some time ago to get a good cone gear (could not find one separately), and it had a good shifter. I've had a binding in the back gears right along, and today's study proved to me that since it bound at about the same point on the change gear end pair (the bull gear never coming close to one revolution) it was in the smaller of the two back gears. Yep, looking at that original small gear LA-124 showed a lot of wear from the old carnage. Fortunately again, the spare headstock had a perfect replacement ready and waiting cleanup. I also took the opportunity to slot the change gear end of the back gear eccentric shaft LA-125
 
Sorry about that. I somehow managed - with thick fingers - to get it posted before I'd even completed it!!!!
Only 30 minutes for editing... really?

Mods, please delete post #46.
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VEEEEERY incremental progress;

I've been working through some issues and ruminating on a number of things.

One was the drive belt. I had finally decided on the automotive poly V belt in the 6 rib variety. Nothing available locally in the correct 40" length, so I've ordered and received a K060400 Goodyear, and knocked the spindle out far enough to install it.

That mystery hole in the back gear shifter finally did bug me enough to change it out. Fortunately, I purchased a complete spare headstock off of ebay some time ago to get a good cone gear (could not find one separately), and it had a good shifter. All I had to do was swap over my latch key and spring.

I've had a binding in the back gears right along, and today's more focused study proved to me that since it bound at about the same point on the change gear end pair every time (the bull gear never coming close to one revolution), it must be in the smaller of the two back gears. Yep, looking at that original small gear LA-124 showed a lot of wear from the old carnage (it was the only one of the 4 main gears not totally destroyed). Fortunately again, the spare headstock had a perfect replacement ready and waiting for cleanup. Bind is now gone!!

I also took the opportunity to slot the change gear end of the back gear eccentric shaft LA-125 so that back gear adjusting would be easier. NO KIDDING... that works well! A quick trip out to the vertical mill and a couple of passes with a slitting saw had that done and smartly. I could have tossed one in with a hacksaw or something, but using the mill was a lot more fun, and the result looks factory! I further took the opportunity to drill a small hole in the quill sleeve LA-126 and tap it to 10-32 to add an oil hole screw. I should have thought that out better. Drilling it adjacent to the smallest flat belt cone would have made it far more accessible than in the center of the sleeve where I put it. Ah well.

All kinds of jiggering of gears and set screws and so on has finally resulted in a completed headstock assembly... I think. It really does take a lot of fiddling to get everything situated and clearanced properly, but it is far better that it be done now while the headstock is still off than later when it is installed. I think I have got it. Picture below of the headstock sitting on the bed, just for the fun of it and to give me more motivation.

LoganRebuildHeadstockDone.jpg

At least I noticed that the carriage rack has to go on before the headstock is bolted down, as one screw is under the case. I took the time to spruce up the variously buggered heads and slots of all the screws before installing them. You can also see that pieces of the rear primary drive are being stripped and refinished. The guard frame has been baked and is done, and the drive box LA-374 is stripped and awaiting its coloring.

At this point, I think it is time to finalize the base assemblies of the lathe. I have been ruminating on just what I am going to do for leveling. Some sort of jack screw arrangement is in order, and this needs to go in hand with a planned raising of the entire lathe to a height more forgiving of my own 6'5" frame. At least 4" is planned, if not 6, but how to accomplish that has eluded me so far. Something quick and easy might not satisfy my stylistic temperament. In any event, it occurs to me that locking this all down and getting the bed leveled before bolting down the headstock would be a good idea. I would also want to stone and finish the ways while they are most accessible.

And so it goes.....

LoganRebuildHeadstockDone.jpg
 
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You're obviously getting close to the end. Very nice work!
 
Great Job, starting to look like it's new again ready for many more years a service.
 
You're obviously getting close to the end.
Hehheh;

It doesn't FEEL that way, much...

For the record and future reference; pictures of the backgear eccentric shaft LA-125 slot modification, and the oil port added in the backgear quill sleeve LA-126. It is a debatable point as to whether I would have been smarter to put that oil port under the smallest cone pulley. It would have made access far easier, but would it have oiled both quill bushings evenly? In any event, it is not something that will need to be done often.

LoganBackgearSlot.jpg LoganBackgearOilPort.jpg
 
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