That longer splined end of the spindle looks like a much better solution to me than what I have seen in other versions of the 833. That said, the interference of the drawbar hex corners with the spline wrench would drive me crazy. Instead of that spline wrench, you might find that a certain size 12-point box-end wrench will fit the splines and still give clearance past the hex-head.
If you plan on implementing a power drawbar, you might live with it until the PDB project pops to the top of the list. If you go for the Maxi Torque-Rite PDB, it comes with a custom new drawbar to fit your machine.
But instead of beavering off the corners of the hex cap, I would be inclined to bring the entire hex-head down in size by milling off all six sides in an ER40 Hex collet block. Kinda hard to do without a second drawbar, but you can buy replacement drawbars easy enough - or make your own. You have to be precise in picking a replacement drawbar on length, but the R8 end is threaded 7/16-20.
Here are a few, or PM may have one specific to the 833.
This is another alternative - used in place of the spline wrench. I made a slightly more robust version of this for my RF-45. They are available on eBay
here. It's basically a spring-loaded plunger that you push on to engage with one of the splines and it locks the spindle. When you let go, it springs back automatically. Less likely you'll forget and leave a spline wrench on the spindle with this kind of setup and it's easily installed and works with existing unmodified drawbar.
View attachment 360634
