70 C10 resto-mod (was Chevy culture shock)

Could a simple tighten the hose clamps. Rubber hoses do compress under the clamps and can leak there. Old hoses do get stiff/hard and should be replaced from time to time.
With the engine off, run a finger on the back side of the water pump pulley. Wet? Thermostat housing do corrode a fair bit under the rubber hose. Once the front of the engine is wiped off, it will be easier to trace a coolant leak.
 
Bone Head said:
"Green stuff" might be anti-freeze. Look at the water pump.
And yes; a good cleaning. I would caution against pressure washers as they sometimes force water into places you don't want water.
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It's definitely coolant, seems likely it's coming from the weep holes in the pump, but I won't know until I can see the trail of woe.
I use a spray bottle with diluted Purple power and let it soften up the coating
 
pdentrem said:
Could a simple tighten the hose clamps. Rubber hoses do compress under the clamps and can leak there. Old hoses do get stiff/hard and should be replaced from time to time.
With the engine off, run a finger on the back side of the water pump pulley. Wet? Thermostat housing do corrode a fair bit under the rubber hose. Once the front of the engine is wiped off, it will be easier to trace a coolant leak.
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First thing I did was replace all the hoses(they were crispy).
Could be weeping from the bottom hose, it'd be hard to differentiate. Thermo housing looks OK.
 
pdentrem said:
If it is the water pump, at least it is simple to replace unlike some modern set ups!
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Only car I ever had to change a pump on was a '96 Cherokee(straight 6) and that thing was a dream to work on. I shudder to think what that's like on 21st Century vehicles
 
Swapping shocks. Fortunately, the original riveted top hanger had already been replaced so they weren't tough to remove. I replaced the pin with the new one that came with the shocks. A crappy angle to work with at low altitude, but only mildly excruciating to put it on. Piece of cake on the lift, I guess ;-)
Buttoned up the brake lines on the right for now, I'll have to jack the whole front end in the daylight, prolly need some clocking for clearance
With spacers, the wheel studs are a bit short of flush, so I'll replace those. There's enough thread engagement, but it just don't look right
 
I rounded the nut on the driver's side breaking it loose, so tonight I cut, bent, flared and re-bent the little piece of hard line to put a nut back on.
Filled the tube with baking soda to keep it from collapsing, not sure that was necessary,....but it didn't collapse.
Got what I hope is a passable flare on the.....second try. This line is now ~1/4" shorter from cutting 2 flares off, but since I'm adding an adapter to mate to the new 1/4" soft line, length should be OK.
IMG_4614.jpeg
 
Old shock made interesting farting noises when I compressed it, and didn't have any spring to it. I suppose an argument could be made that it was still providing damping.
IMG_4611.jpeg
 
What shocks are you putting back on? You'll notice an improvement in ride for sure!
 
Bone Head said:
What shocks are you putting back on? You'll notice an improvement in ride for sure!
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I went with Monroe OESpectrums in front. Conventional wisdom is that the horse and buggy suspension on these doesn't really take advantage of fancy shocks.
Leaving the back for now. I'd like to go with air back there, but since I really won't be towing or hauling much it seems kinda silly.
 
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