Dating my vintage craftsman 12inch . My first day on the site.

We will gladly help you spend your money like a drunken sailor on 24 hour shore leave.

For us newbies, and I am still in that category, reading Mikey's thread on grinding HSS tool bits is a must. I started trying to grind HSS tool bits with a hand held high speed grinder. Didn't work too well. Then got a typical bench grinder for cheap at a garage sale. This helped but I was still struggling. Then I picked up a 1x42 Delta belt sander at a thrift store. 1x42 refers to the size of the belt. Wow. What a difference. I could now easily and quickly grind any shape tool bit that I wanted to. Like I said before don't throw any of those HSS tool bits away. As you gain experience you will understand how they were ground and what they may have been used for. And you can grind some to suit what you want in a tool bit for a particular task.

A lot of beginning machining is learning motor skills. The basics of lathe work is internal and external turning and threading. I practiced on pvc pipe just to learn the motor skills. I spent hours doing this. Next comes a project where you actually try to make something. I had a lantern tool post and a 4 way tool post that I was using. Wanting to upgrade to a QCTP (quick change tool post) and not willing to spend the $$$$$ for the commercial ones I stumbled across the Norman style QCTP. A lot of members on the forum have made these. Easy to make at a fraction of the cost of the commercial QCTP. So I made a Norman style QCTP. All you need is a lathe and a drill. This was a great learning project.

Keep plugging away. You will gain valuable experience with everything you do.
Awesome. Thank. I will read hos thread. How do I find it again? Im.sorry im.talking to 3 people right now. I also have a vintage industrial bearing bench grinder but I also got a small liquidation of a shop was a delta 6x48 belt sander that they used for metal. 1 hp motor. It had a circle disc but it was broke. The machine didn't work, they sd it was the motor ( I know a bit about electric motors) ao I knew it wasn't it was a bearing..so.for 10 dollars I fixed a 500 dollars sander no 9 inch disc option but still 1 hp 6x48 belt sander works great. Belts are little tricky. But as far as the tool post, I was considering getting a new set of regular cutters. And messing around with the HSS. I like the 4 way holder. It looks mire ridged ... my buddy is a excellent maker he just sold his craftsman 618 for a 10imch hes totalky restoring . Im just doimg a refrshing once over. Screw painting ect. Theachine looks better original.. i. Just getting it all cleaned and working smooth . 'm new to turning but I am a average trade guy, and have tons of tools. I can even use 1 or 2 of them lol. This machining caught ny eye. I wish i paid.more attention when I was younger. Direct me to the thread. I'm still navigating this platform. Thanks again. Whst size cutters should I buy?? 1/2 inch or 5/8 ???
 
Link to Mikey's thread on grinding HSS tool bits. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/models-for-grinding-hss-lathe-tools.62111/

What size tool bit stock to buy depends on the size of the tool holder. 3/8 is probably a good bet. That should give you some wiggle room to shim the tool bit so the point is on centerline. If you want to buy already ground tool bits you are mostly likely looking at insert tool bits. That is a whole nother rabbit hole to fall into. I do not use insert tool bits. I only use HSS that I have ground. Your 6x48 if it has an adjustable table will work for grinding tool bits. Get your friend to show you how to do it.
 
We will gladly help you spend your money like a drunken sailor on 24 hour shore leave.

For us newbies, and I am still in that category, reading Mikey's thread on grinding HSS tool bits is a must. I started trying to grind HSS tool bits with a hand held high speed grinder. Didn't work too well. Then got a typical bench grinder for cheap at a garage sale. This helped but I was still struggling. Then I picked up a 1x42 Delta belt sander at a thrift store. 1x42 refers to the size of the belt. Wow. What a difference. I could now easily and quickly grind any shape tool bit that I wanted to. Like I said before don't throw any of those HSS tool bits away. As you gain experience you will understand how they were ground and what they may have been used for. And you can grind some to suit what you want in a tool bit for a particular task.

A lot of beginning machining is learning motor skills. The basics of lathe work is internal and external turning and threading. I practiced on pvc pipe just to learn the motor skills. I spent hours doing this. Next comes a project where you actually try to make something. I had a lantern tool post and a 4 way tool post that I was using. Wanting to upgrade to a QCTP (quick change tool post) and not willing to spend the $$$$$ for the commercial ones I stumbled across the Norman style QCTP. A lot of members on the forum have made these. Easy to make at a fraction of the cost of the commercial QCTP. So I made a Norman style QCTP. All you need is a lathe and a drill. This was a great learning project.

Keep plugging away. You will gain valuable experience with everything you do.
Thanks. Sorry for the delay in reposting . Is it me or is that at form confusing ??? Its me right ? O wanted to post this for everyone to see
As some of you know I bought my first lathe. Atlas 12inch. I have been refurbishing ( not restore) it. It was dirty, sticky ect. But pretty complete and worked. I've done a decent job, i must say. About 12 plus hrs into it. However , like a newbie, I screwed up. I saved the tail stock for last. It was all running smooth, clean ect. I even did my first turn ( which l show later, its a wicked joke) . But when I was taking apart the tail stock I broke the dam bracket that holds it to the ways. ( pic below.) IM super ******. I went theougj the entire machine and didnt break or loose anything. Then this stupid crap..
What is the best way to fix? I'm sure replacing is almost impossible.. these are the options i have now.
1. Harbor freight cheap Flux welder.
2. Aluminum or bronze braizing rod
3. Epoxy. Note, first two I have very limited experience.
4. Remake, with no skills..

PLEASE HELP!!!
 

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All you really need is a piece of steel of similar dimensions about 3/8 to 1/2” thick with a hole drilled through. Easy peasy.
Pierre
 
All you really need is a piece of steel of similar dimensions about 3/8 to 1/2” thick with a hole drilled through. Easy peasy.
Pierre
just make another piece? I understand and can agree with and im.alresdy working on obtaining thr pieces.. but, for my own knowledge and skill building, I would want to try and fix as well. I read online that braising cast or using jbweld work. It also stated welding was difficult without reheating and cooling slowly with decent welding skills. ..

What would be the best fix metheun?

Ken
 
just make another piece? I understand and can agree with and im.alresdy working on obtaining thr pieces.. but, for my own knowledge and skill building, I would want to try and fix as well. I read online that braising cast or using jbweld work. It also stated welding was difficult without reheating and cooling slowly with decent welding skills. ..

What would be the best fix metheun?

Ken
Its it cast steel ? Or Aluminum
Cast is not always easy to weld and still retain strength
 
I measured it is 42 long and 24 between centers seem correct. My friend had a 109. And I recall him using it. Everytime I consider mine his size parts cone to my head. Then when i get hone I realize how much bigger mine is. So with a tail stock on 24 is about dead on fornthe centers.


I found the 1/2 20 nut for the end of the lead screw. So I hope it fits. I'll be home in 30 to try



I found a 1/2 20. I tried to put it on and it went on like 1.5 turns then was very hard to twist. There a 'key way' cut through theead screw I think that is stopping it. I didn't want to force it. But I'll going back down stairs to mess around with it. I may put washers on to build up the space between the nut and the braket if needed.

I also need a nut for the screw that is used to lock the carriage. I only have the bolt. I have pic. I forgot to look for that size I think it 5/16 not sure on thread or size. Here a couple pics. I think the unit is early 40s. It has the old craftsman logo with the c underlining the word. It has the blue paint which I think they used grey after. Plus I belive I have the tenkin bearings, rather I DONT have babbitt bearings. There no screws for the shims behind the headstock. I could be wrong. Let me know what you think please.

Thanks

Ken
I found the half by 20 nylock nut. The nut i first used was just a regular 1/2x20.
 

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Thank you, that will help alot. It's worth 35 beans. But I'm also wondering what would be the best method to fix it. I think wit would be good practice to fix in the event I had no other choice . What would you say would be best to fix and why

Thanks
Ken
 
Without having the right equipment or a friend makes it tough.
I would braze or weld back together if wishing to try. Many people have used plain wire MIG welders with good success. Check out Uncle Tony’s Garage for a recent video of an engine block repair. No preheat used in his case. Usually cast iron is preheated and slowly cooled. I have used regular brazing rod with a MAPP torch setup on a small part like the top slide of the lathe.
Pierre
 
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