G0704 CNC Conversion (yes, another thread on this :) )

Be warned that if you go with ballscrews, you really won't be able to use the mill manually very well. Cutting forces will move the axis you aren't using unless it is locked. On top of that, the motors will cog making it harder to spin by hand and the faster you spin them, the more they'll fight you as you power up the stepper drive with the back EMF.

I had handwheels on mine for a while and the only time I used them was to move the table out of my way when the machine was turned off.

You'd be better off planning on setting up a nice pendant.

www.ebay.com

Universal 4 Axis CNC Handwheel MPG Pendant w/ E-Stop For CNC Router Machine【USA】 | eBay

X,Y,Z,4th axis selector switch. Required 5V+, 150mA, power for MPG. Wiring:User can wire this unit to the CNC system with easy. LED indicator. TTL output, drive capability +-20mA;. Magnetic base holder can place anywhere on the machine steel surface.
www.ebay.com

Good use for your 3rd port on the ESS. Wireless ones are OK, but I would never trust a wireless Estop.
 
macardoso said:
Be warned that if you go with ballscrews, you really won't be able to use the mill manually very well. Cutting forces will move the axis you aren't using unless it is locked. On top of that, the motors will cog making it harder to spin by hand and the faster you spin them, the more they'll fight you as you power up the stepper drive with the back EMF.

I had handwheels on mine for a while and the only time I used them was to move the table out of my way when the machine was turned off.

You'd be better off planning on setting up a nice pendant.

www.ebay.com

Universal 4 Axis CNC Handwheel MPG Pendant w/ E-Stop For CNC Router Machine【USA】 | eBay

X,Y,Z,4th axis selector switch. Required 5V+, 150mA, power for MPG. Wiring:User can wire this unit to the CNC system with easy. LED indicator. TTL output, drive capability +-20mA;. Magnetic base holder can place anywhere on the machine steel surface.
www.ebay.com

Good use for your 3rd port on the ESS. Wireless ones are OK, but I would never trust a wireless Estop.
Click to expand...

Well... son of a gun... I was not aware of that. Let me order that pendant...

Looks like I will be making some cool covers for those shafts (not planning on cutting them)...
 
wachuko said:
Well... son of a gun... I was not aware of that. Let me order that pendant...

Looks like I will be making some cool covers for those shafts (not planning on cutting them)...
Click to expand...

I mean, it can be done, but you might not want to. Having a good pendant should take care of any need to run the axes manually. Warp 9 has a great write up on setting Mach 4 up for the pendant. If you need help, I'm happy to help as well. I have one on my machine and it works great.
 
macardoso said:
I mean, it can be done, but you might not want to. Having a good pendant should take care of any need to run the axes manually. Warp 9 has a great write up on setting Mach 4 up for the pendant. If you need help, I'm happy to help as well. I have one on my machine and it works great.
Click to expand...

Ordered. Will take you up on your offer. I will reach out when I get to installing it. Thanks again.
 
For reference, here is what a pendant looks like for a $120k Doosan VMC. Not much different, lmao.

uo9P7Vql.jpg
 
Here are some circuit diagrams for my pendant installation. They might be of use to you.

1579723031822.png

1579723087151.png

Please double check that the colors on the pendant you bought match up with the ones in the drawings above. Wouldn't surprise me if they were different. The circuitry is nearly identical though. Your pendant has an enable button that I wish mine had.

The MPG to ESS connections are shown in the 3rd column labeled "Port 3". I detailed the pendant install on post #34 of my build log.

Can you tell I do electrical drawings for my day job?

If you go the same route I did, then the following information is applicable to you. If not, please ignore it.

I opted for an off the shelf IDC-26 breakout board and ribbon cable. Since it wasn't explicitly designed for the ESS, it required me to add a few pulldown resistors to get the inputs reading correctly. This isn't shown on the drawing here. This isn't an issue with the ESS, but rather the cheap breakout board (there aren't really any good ones for the 3rd port on the market).

The resistors are discussed in post #59. You need a resistor on each dedicated input (10, 11, 12, 13, & 15) of a value between 220 ohms and 1000 ohms. 470 ohm would probably be ideal, I used 220 ohm.
 
Great thread with lots of suggestions. Including for future reference when I start the build. Also getting a few of the tools mentioned there along with a proper enclosure for all the electrical components.

www.hobby-machinist.com

Tips for Your Electrical Panels!

Hi all! I am probably an oddball here who really enjoys the process of building electrical panels. I have two CNC mills (Sherline and a G0704) for which I have built several electrical panels over the years. At my day job, I design industrial control panels for some special applications. I...
www.hobby-machinist.com www.hobby-machinist.com
 
Glad to see the site back up and stable. Even if we lost a few posts, that is okay.

A few tools came in... and link to the Mist Coolant Lubrication Spray System that I got from Amazon

IMG_2990.jpg

Motors came in

IMG_2996.jpg

Also got me a 5C indexing spin jig fixture with some collects... looking at a few videos on how to make a few improvements... I should put this in the tool thread that I have... have not updated that one in years. Getting a few additional tools like a small rotary table and a few more things. ER20 collects came in as well, forgot to take a photo of those...

IMG_2999.jpg
 
See if you can catch my mistake...

IMG_3027.jpg

IMG_3028.jpg

Yeah... started on the wrong side... I hope I did not ruin the saddle... Anywho... flipped it around and made the cut on the correct side...

IMG_3030.jpg
 
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