Line boring one piece vtwin kohler block

[RaisedByWolves]

From my experiences with kohler v-twin engines I would have to say I don’t think your lathe would have the swing to bore a cylinder. Have you checked?? Also you would need to bore about three to four inches length. Which I would suspect would be pretty flimsy. Idk the standard way would be setting up in a mill or dedicated boring machine. I think your best bet would be a mill and a stout boring head.

I’m thinking more like 5-6”

With a big enough mandrel holding a stout enough boring bar it would work, but now you’re material cost vs machine shop cost.

 

[Cadillac]

You are assuming you will be spinning the work piece, I am talking spinning the tool, watch quin's video and she has another where she bores a steam engine cylinder.

The difference is she’s boring an inch. The op will need to bore maybe four inches. Your stickout will chatter away.
Trying to align the block twice at specific angles with no references would be crazy. You really can’t use the existing bore because it would most likely have a taper or be oblong.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

I am not assuming that. Line boring doesn’t mean you hold the work. I thought I made that clear in the post. I wrote, could I attach the work to the carriage and hold the tool in the chuck?

I have seen that video, and many others on line boring. I have also done some small line boring. Not between centers, so I’m not sure it’s considered line boring. More like milling on a lathe with no milling slide.

I’m saying that I would have to hold a very long boring bar, or boring tool in the chuck. the steady rest would have to go before the engine block for support. The engine block oil sump/case is in on the same axis as the cylinder. It would only work if I’m going to bore through the side of the block. Then the boring bar could be held between centers. I can only hold onto a boring bar from the c

Understood

 

[FTlatheworks]

I’m thinking more like 5-6”

With a big enough mandrel holding a stout enough boring bar it would work, but now you’re material cost vs machine shop cost.

That’s what was thinking, but I measureed the carriage to my dead center and it’s only 3.75 inches. There’s no way my lathe is big enough. The vertical engine block sits on its side and has posts that lift the block up. The centerline of the bore is going to be way too high for my lathe. I haven’t actually checked with the block on the lathe, but I’m about 75 percent sure there isn’t enough room.

 

[Cadillac]

I’m thinking more like 5-6”

With a big enough mandrel holding a stout enough boring bar it would work, but now you’re material cost vs machine shop cost.

I’d say the op would run outta room on his lathe. That block he’s referencing is close to 2’.
It can be done but for about a hundred bucks I’d take it to a machine shop and be done. Guaranteed results.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Is it the Chinese portable boring machine that’s like 1-2k. I have always wanted one. How does it perform?

I bought a used unit to work on the big block I was racing in the mid 80's. I am seriously debating buying another unit, I have several project I plan on doing and I would like to restore a couple old tractors. I enjoy doing that type work.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

That’s what was thinking, but I measureed the carriage to my dead center and it’s only 3.75 inches. There’s no way my lathe is big enough. The vertical engine block sits on its side and has posts that lift the block up. The centerline of the bore is going to be way too high for my lathe. I haven’t actually checked with the block on the lathe, but I’m about 75 percent sure there isn’t enough room.

Do you have a big enough mill?

 

[matthewsx]

Well the gouges are right at the middle of the cylinder and they are about 1/16- 1/8 inch in diameter. They are pretty deep too, but I think you’re right. I will just ball hone it and see how she runs. It’s for a high hp racing lawn mower anyway, not a fancy regulated racing league.

Nice, make sure to have a scatter shield for the flywheel if using the original cast one.

And, we need pictures

John

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I’d say the op would run outta room on his lathe. That block he’s referencing is close to 2’.
It can be done but for about a hundred bucks I’d take it to a machine shop and be done. Guaranteed results.

I’m wondering about getting rid of the cross slide and clamping directly to the cross slide ways.

The saddle movement could be dealt with if the height could be brought in.

 

[FTlatheworks]

I bought a used unit to work on the big block I was racing in the mid 80's. I am seriously debating buying another unit, I have several project I plan on doing and I would like to restore a couple old tractors. I enjoy doing that type work.

Me too, wish I had more money for all my hobbies. I’m down to racing mowers cause I couldn’t afford diesel engine power and transmissions anymore. Even racing mowers are expensive.