Line boring one piece vtwin kohler block

[sdelivery]

You need a sunnen hone and a drill press.
If you use roughing stones first to true the bore then finish hone with a finer grade stone you can take .020 out of a bore before you say oh shirt I just went to big!
Ball hones won't do what a sunnen hone will do.
I started boring my K series blocks and then honeing them, now I hone to size.
A few months ago I stumbled on everything to grind valves and seats. Then I'm on to connecting rods....

 

[FTlatheworks]

You need a sunnen hone and a drill press.
If you use roughing stones first to true the bore then finish hone with a finer grade stone you can take .020 out of a bore before you say oh shirt I just went to big!
Ball hones won't do what a sunnen hone will do.
I started boring my K series blocks and then honeing them, now I hone to size.
A few months ago I stumbled on everything to grind valves and seats. Then I'm on to connecting rods....

I had an engine builder tell me .020 would take forever. I disagreed, but I haven’t honed a cast iron sleeve on these command blocks before. I have used cheap spring loaded hones, but never the sunnens. They are probably pretty pricey? Our drill press table never stays locked well. You think a drill press is a must?

I take it your a tractor puller?

 

[RaisedByWolves]

lol, why? Cause of how overkill and sloppy they are?

Keep in mind it’s a 110v fcaw welder that’s on its last leg. I Have trouble with the clamps and good continuity. I am much better than what you’re seeing, but I didn’t care much cause these parts will be trashed pretty quick. Just needed to make the thing operate first.

I will either make nicer, or purchase after. Also, I didn’t have any experience, just started doing it. I’m much better now, but don’t have my own mig setup yet with gas.

Yes, but just busting balls. Flux core is de debbil unless you need penetration, then it needs to be a 220 machine.

Your welds would get me hired as a welder, but I actually thought that was tight position stick welding.

Mig with gas is the easy button. Like a mans version of a hot glue gun.

 

[sdelivery]

You can do it with a half inch drill and a strong back but alas I can't.
A drill press is the way to go. It gives you some where to make the thing stationary.
If you want to remove material it has to be stationary.
Cast iron is pretty easy but cast steel is harder and will take longer.
A little misalignment is handled by a u joint in the driver.
You can find them used on Craigslist sometimes.
New they are expensive. I don't tractor pull but I do work on older garden tractors and
I like my 50 year old wheelhorses and I work them hard.

 

[FTlatheworks]

Yes, but just busting balls. Flux core is de debbil unless you need penetration, then it needs to be a 220 machine.

Your welds would get me hired as a welder, but I actually thought that was tight position stick welding.

Mig with gas is the easy button. Like a mans version of a hot glue gun.

Jesus, if they hire someone that welds like that, then I could be making decent money. That was literally no prep work, no anti spatter, ****ty settings, and no cleaning the mill scale off the metal for good contact lol.

It did look like stick for some reason. I was laying welds on welds though.

 

[FTlatheworks]

You can do it with a half inch drill and a strong back but alas I can't.
A drill press is the way to go. It gives you some where to make the thing stationary.
If you want to remove material it has to be stationary.
Cast iron is pretty easy but cast steel is harder and will take longer.
A little misalignment is handled by a u joint in the driver.
You can find them used on Craigslist sometimes.
New they are expensive. I don't tractor pull but I do work on older garden tractors and
I like my 50 year old wheelhorses and I work them hard.

Nice! I have bore honed mostly only steel on big machines, like presses. I guess I will have to think about all that.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Me too, wish I had more money for all my hobbies. I’m down to racing mowers cause I couldn’t afford diesel engine power and transmissions anymore. Even racing mowers are expensive.

As the old saying use to go, "speed costs, how fast can you afford to go".

I did some math, figuratively speaking, I love to build stuff and my wife and I enjoy wood work as well, we cannot keep everything we make so we'll use the wood projects to fund more wood projects and I plan to build obsolete parts for folks who are involved in restoration projects and fund my bad habits with that. Thus far we haven't geared up with the wood work yet but I have managed to make a little with the parts side. I do not need to get rich nor take every opportunity, I just need to sustain my hobby....

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Well if I had a mill I would mill one, but I don’t have one yet. Yes, I know not to use the cast iron one unless the rpms stay under 5k rpms.

Here is the 5/8 pulley I made for the clutch. The hubs for the front and back. The chassis from an mtd mower and made the front and rear axle, steering, and a whole bunch of other stuff I have made. It’s been a long road and my first fabrication project with a cheap fcaw welder. It’s not the nicest, but I have tested the parts with hydraulic presses and everything holds up well. Most parts bend or break the stock, not on the welds, even with how bad the welds look.

Then there’s pictures of the engine I got screwed on. I bought it for 100 dollars and the guy overfilled it with oil , so I couldn’t hear the metal clanking around. I was dumb and didn’t pulll the plugs to check bot cylinders for piston movement. It turned over just fine, even though it has a broken rod. The way it broke was one in a million. It’s ok though, I have other engines that will make massive power for a small racing mower/go kart. I’m trying to do wheelies and be able to go at least 50-60. I doubt it’s possible to do both without a transmission, but I could definitely hit 60-80 mph with the gearing I have calculated and the engines I want to build.

Nice work.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

No mill yet. Working on that too.

I have a PM940V-PDF, it have a large work envelope, just a thought...

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Ya because it’s a one piece block laid on its side, it’s not easy even for an auto machine shop to do. Has to have a custom jig. I wish I could make two piece small engine block castings myself. There would be a boat load of money in it.

2 thoughts of which you likely have already thought of 1 and 2 is really a thought exercise:

1. looking at your pictures, where the plate unbolts to provide access to the internals of the block, could you fabricate a plate to bolt to that area which you could bolt to your carriage for work holding? If you removed your tail stock, could this plate be setup in such a manner as to give you more room to the head stock even if it required a rest back to the flat sections of the ways? with the tail stock out of the way from the end of the jaws on the chuck to the end of the bed is about 40"+/-.

2. There are several engines built much like the old VW bug with bolt on Jugs/Cylinders (air cooled) that can be had very reasonable. Design and fab your own block and use one of those possibly with the cylinder head made for the head to simplify and the guts from your engine... That would not seem a very long stretch, not to complex. A lot would depend upon the rules of the class you are racing in....