Line boring one piece vtwin kohler block

[FTlatheworks]

I’d say the op would run outta room on his lathe. That block he’s referencing is close to 2’.
It can be done but for about a hundred bucks I’d take it to a machine shop and be done. Guaranteed results.

Ya because it’s a one piece block laid on its side, it’s not easy even for an auto machine shop to do. Has to have a custom jig. I wish I could make two piece small engine block castings myself. There would be a boat load of money in it.

 

[FTlatheworks]

I’m wondering about getting rid of the cross slide and clamping directly to the cross slide ways.

The saddle movement could be dealt with if the height could be brought in.

I thought about that too, but I think it’s still too big. I will bring the block to work and check it all on my lathe.

 

[FTlatheworks]

Nice, make sure to have a scatter shield for the flywheel if using the original cast one.

And, we need pictures

John

Well if I had a mill I would mill one, but I don’t have one yet. Yes, I know not to use the cast iron one unless the rpms stay under 5k rpms.

Here is the 5/8 pulley I made for the clutch. The hubs for the front and back. The chassis from an mtd mower and made the front and rear axle, steering, and a whole bunch of other stuff I have made. It’s been a long road and my first fabrication project with a cheap fcaw welder. It’s not the nicest, but I have tested the parts with hydraulic presses and everything holds up well. Most parts bend or break the stock, not on the welds, even with how bad the welds look.

Then there’s pictures of the engine I got screwed on. I bought it for 100 dollars and the guy overfilled it with oil , so I couldn’t hear the metal clanking around. I was dumb and didn’t pulll the plugs to check bot cylinders for piston movement. It turned over just fine, even though it has a broken rod. The way it broke was one in a million. It’s ok though, I have other engines that will make massive power for a small racing mower/go kart. I’m trying to do wheelies and be able to go at least 50-60. I doubt it’s possible to do both without a transmission, but I could definitely hit 60-80 mph with the gearing I have calculated and the engines I want to build.

 

[FTlatheworks]

Do you have a big enough mill?

No mill yet. Working on that too.

 

[matthewsx]

Well if I had a mill I would mill one, but I don’t have one yet. Yes, I know not to use the cast iron one unless the rpms stay under 5k rpms.

Here is the 5/8 pulley I made for the clutch. The hubs for the front and back. The chassis from an mtd mower and made the front and rear axle, steering, and a whole bunch of other stuff I have made. It’s been a long road and my first fabrication project with a cheap fcaw welder. It’s not the nicest, but I have tested the parts with hydraulic presses and everything holds up well. Most parts bend or break the stock, not on the welds, even with how bad the welds look.

Then there’s pictures of the engine I got screwed on. I bought it for 100 dollars and the guy overfilled it with oil , so I couldn’t hear the metal clanking around. I was dumb and didn’t pulll the plugs to check bot cylinders for piston movement. It turned over just fine, even though it has a broken rod. The way it broke was one in a million. It’s ok though, I have other engines that will make massive power for a small racing mower/go kart. I’m trying to do wheelies and be able to go at least 50-60. I doubt it’s possible to do both without a transmission, but I could definitely hit 60-80 mph with the gearing I have calculated and the engines I want to build.

Nice, the scatter shield can be fabricated out of plate steel with your welder, it's just to make sure the pieces of cast iron don't kill anyone when the flywheel grenades.

When I was building engines I used an sold an awful lot of parts from these guys.

ARC Racing

www.arcracing.com

Their connecting rods and flywheels were mandatory for most of my builds. Tim Iskendarian

https://iskycams.com/shop/

can put a custom grind on your cam if you don't want to, or can't get one from Dyno Cams

Racing Cams and Parts | Home | DynoCams

Experience Peak Performance with DynoCams Products - Pioneering Camshafts and More! Our Exclusive Lineup of Precision-Engineered Parts, from Springs to Rings, Sets the Standard.

www.dynocams.com

You may want to check which engines are most popular and have parts availability before committing to a build.

John

 

[FTlatheworks]

Nice, the scatter shield can be fabricated out of plate steel with your welder, it's just to make sure the pieces of cast iron don't kill anyone when the flywheel grenades.

When I was building engines I used an sold an awful lot of parts from these guys.

ARC Racing

www.arcracing.com

Their connecting rods and flywheels were mandatory for most of my builds. Tim Iskendarian

https://iskycams.com/shop/

can put a custom grind on your cam if you don't want to, or can't get one from Dyno Cams

Racing Cams and Parts | Home | DynoCams

Experience Peak Performance with DynoCams Products - Pioneering Camshafts and More! Our Exclusive Lineup of Precision-Engineered Parts, from Springs to Rings, Sets the Standard.

www.dynocams.com

You may want to check which engines are most popular and have parts availability before committing to a build.

John

Thank you. I’m pretty in the loop with those companies. Unfortunately arc doesn’t make anywhere near the same variety. None of them do anymore. My goal is to eventually have enough tools to be able to make my own custom high hp v twins.

To your point, I only buy the engines I can get custom parts for. I only build verticals because of price and, no primary and secondary clutches required.

No one messes with verticals anymore, which amazes me, considering the verticals are the same as the horizontals, as far as stroke and bore. The only difference is the blocks and sometimes oil pressure. Even though the verticals are the same many of these companies refuse to sell you aftermarket engine parts if they know your building a vertical engine. They dont want to be involved with mower racing anymore. This is mostly the tractor pulling manufacturers.

I’m familiar with arc and they only really carry very small kart engine parts, and Briggs vanguard parts.

My goal is to eventually be able to make my own custom engine, or be over 100 hp alcohol burning engine. I want to be able to get into making parts available for all the most obscure and cheapest old engines even verticals. Probably will never happen, but it’s a dream. The other dream is to be able

do you know how to calculate what amount of balance weight a synchro balanced camshaft needs to delete the balancers or avs systems on single cylinder Briggs? I have multiple old avs Briggs engines that I planned on taking apart and trying to turn crank counterweights to delete the avs system because no one makes the brass counter weights anymore. I think I could turn them on my lathe, but I couldn’t get arc, or ec carbs to sell, or tell me the dimensions, or weight required to delete the avs system. I know the math and the formula for it, now I just need to take the engine apart and do the math, but i have to many other projects going at once.

 

[tq60]

Back to the cylinder.

Loate a chunk of sharpening stone and maybe good round files.

Or, just GOOD sandpaper.

Good sharp sandpaper can cut steel quite well.

Make a backer with some wood, cut it to shape of wall, about 1/2 inch wide.

Use this to apply pressure to sandpaper to just clean up the damaged spot.

Goal is to remove high spots and ridges, the rings will go right over the damaged spot just fine.

Once this is done, hone it out.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Back to the cylinder.

Loate a chunk of sharpening stone and maybe good round files.

Or, just GOOD sandpaper.

Good sharp sandpaper can cut steel quite well.

Make a backer with some wood, cut it to shape of wall, about 1/2 inch wide.

Use this to apply pressure to sandpaper to just clean up the damaged spot.

Goal is to remove high spots and ridges, the rings will go right over the damaged spot just fine.

Once this is done, hone it out.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

This, but go slow and careful and use bluing to show where you're at.

Oh and Flat, your machining is much nicer than your welds, but your welds make me happy.

 

[FTlatheworks]

Back to the cylinder.

Loate a chunk of sharpening stone and maybe good round files.

Or, just GOOD sandpaper.

Good sharp sandpaper can cut steel quite well.

Make a backer with some wood, cut it to shape of wall, about 1/2 inch wide.

Use this to apply pressure to sandpaper to just clean up the damaged spot.

Goal is to remove high spots and ridges, the rings will go right over the damaged spot just fine.

Once this is done, hone it out.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

I usually just use ball hone, or spring loaded honing tool. I will have to try this.

 

[FTlatheworks]

This, but go slow and careful and use bluing to show where you're at.

Oh and Flat, your machining is much nicer than your welds, but your welds make me happy.

lol, why? Cause of how overkill and sloppy they are?

Keep in mind it’s a 110v fcaw welder that’s on its last leg. I Have trouble with the clamps and good continuity. I am much better than what you’re seeing, but I didn’t care much cause these parts will be trashed pretty quick. Just needed to make the thing operate first.

I will either make nicer, or purchase after. Also, I didn’t have any experience, just started doing it. I’m much better now, but don’t have my own mig setup yet with gas.