Logan 200 - Figuring this thing out!

[Janderso]

I pulled everything out of the buckets and boxes. Here's what I see, I'm figuring out what things are from the Logan manual.



The ways look decent, not dinged up or damaged.

The carriage still has its felt wipers in place. The compound rest screw is bent, but it came with a spare.

Some minor surface rust on the pulleys, but I think it should clean up.

No leather belt, just a continuous rubber belt.

Came with a 3-jaw chuck installed:

Also included a 4-jaw chuck and a couple of face plates:

Included a turret:

Tailstock is in decent shape. I'll need to clean out the taper. I don't see any accessories for it, so I'll probably look for a live center and maybe a chuck.

Has a rest. It's been broken and brazed back together, maybe not super well:

The crossfeed assembly is here, though the crossfeed nut is broken:

Looks like another compound base, with the chip guard broken off:

Also broken: the apron. Looks like maybe it fell over and the apron took the brunt of it:

The half nut broke, but it came with a spare:

It came with a spare apron, but it's smaller than the broken piece. I think the stamped part number is "LA-111," though I can't find anything on that part number.

The power feed gears are here, looks l

Looks like a great project!!!
Sorry for the duplicate pics.

 

[Laminar]

More progress.

I made up a latch to keep the drive belt door closed.

Then I went ahead and got the motor all wired up.

And she spins! The four step pulley actually ends up being pretty deep and interferes with the belt guard. I may just get a couple of single pulleys of the right size and then swap to the size I need when I need it. I got the indicator set up on the carriage to start looking at alignment.

I need to move the switch box over just a bit as it actually interferes with opening the cover (oops). I should probably pull it off the casters and finalize its actual location on the floor. It's kind of too bad, as I'm tall so I like the height it's at now. My apron should show up today so I can finish putting all of those goodies together.

 

[Laminar]

Two boxes showed up yesterday. Another forum member was in need of an LA-111 apron and had accidentally bought an LA-350. What luck! We both threw our wrong aprons into a box and shipped them to each other. I pulled it out and cleaned it up then threw on a few coats of paint.

My goodie box from LittleMachineShop came in with some simple tooling - a few 1/4" tools, some blanks, some center drills, some boring bars, an 8mm chuck key, and a tailstock chuck and taper adapter.

Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to finish assembling the apron and get this thing set up for real!

One thing I'm not clear on is installation and removal of the chucks. The manual details how to engage the back gears to prevent rotation, but I'm not sure what I need as far as a chuck wrench or anything else goes. I assume it would depend on my specific chuck. Any thoughts?

 

[Laminar]

One other issue is the pawl on the back gear actuator. It appears that the pin that holds the pawl in place presses in from one side but does not go through. My pin is in place but the pawl is missing. What's my best option for removing that pin? Just drill it out?

 

[T. J.]

One thing I'm not clear on is installation and removal of the chucks. The manual details how to engage the back gears to prevent rotation, but I'm not sure what I need as far as a chuck wrench or anything else goes. I assume it would depend on my specific chuck. Any thoughts?

I lock the back gears and use a crescent wrench on one of the chuck jaws. In normal use, it shouldn’t require more than steady firm pressure or a few LIGHT taps to dislodge the chuck.

If your chuck has been on the spindle a while, it may be really stuck. Just take care trying to get it off with the back gears locked, otherwise you could break a gear tooth.

 

[tq60]

The back gear control on these is a weak link as it can slide out by itself.

Our Logan has missing teeth due to this and do not want to mess with it as we do not use it at this time, the 14.5 SB for most things and the LS 16x54 for the big stuff.

We do use the back gear lock with the biggest crescent wrench on one of the jaws to loosen our chuck.

But we take up all slack, apply pressure to wrench then do a thumping action with elbow to nudge the wrench and it loosens up

This is on ours that we spun on by hand and did the 1/4 turn seating turn.

If you never have had the chuck off do NOT use back gear.

Put in slowest belted direct drive then use something like a c clamp someplace to stop rotation.

Again, biggest crescent wrench on a jaw of chuck at a comfortable angle where you can apply pressure then apply additional force without letting up.

A constant force with a bump usually does the job.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Laminar]

I made chips!

Is there a list of the actual bushing dimensions? I figure I should be able to make my own, I just need to know what they're supposed to be. The carriage wheel has a bit of slop to it as do the power feed gears.

 

[Nogoingback]

One other issue is the pawl on the back gear actuator. It appears that the pin that holds the pawl in place presses in from one side but does not go through. My pin is in place but the pawl is missing. What's my best option for removing that pin? Just drill it out?

That might be your only option. I looked at mine and the shifter rack is drilled all the way through.

I made chips!


Is there a list of the actual bushing dimensions? I figure I should be able to make my own, I just need to know what they're supposed to be. The carriage wheel has a bit of slop to it as do the power feed gears.

Not sure which bushings your referring to, but most bushing are standard sizes and can be ordered from McMaster-Carr.

 

[Shiseiji]

I'm wondering if anyone recognizes what this compound base is originally from:

I suspect it was purchased to replace the broken piece I have, but it is not in the original manual or drawings. I'm not sure what the long slot is for. The taper doesn't fit the saddle taper, though the gib is not in place. I'll have to double check and see if there's a part number stamped into it.

This is a taper attachment cross-slide. Too bad you didn't get the rest of it.

Ron

 

[Shiseiji]

Sorry about the second answer on the taper cross slide, should have read all the way through first.

This technique was posted for removing a chuck with success and it's KISS. Put a bar across the chuck jaws and hang a weight on it. Try to work some Kroil or PB Blaster into the threads. Give it time and it will loosen the chuck. Use "something" to protect the ways as when it gives it will probably be sudden. Just an "opinion" on tooling. As other's have said, these things were built for a low HP, rpm, and HHS tooling. I suggest you look into a HHS diamond/tangential tool holder. The cost, IMHO pays off very quickly in $ because you don't have to buy inserts and time because the grind is really KISS. If you get them from Gary at eccentric engineering, I suggest you also grit your teeth and buy a piece of Crobalt. Again, no time to grind and it lasts a really long time. Don't need a green wheel. Kills me it's made here in the US and I can't find a retail outlet. It isn't great for threading, for that I use HHS or a HHS insert tool from AR Wagner via Little Machine Shop. But the inserts are expensive if broken. It was a learning curve, but sometimes just have to pay for the lessons. I've gotten a hold of an Armstrong threading tool, learned others have ground them down to fit the AXA holders. Put off as I pack for a move. Good luck! Looks like it's come along really well!