Looking for a better mag base

[ThinWoodsman]

Not sure why people have such problems with the fine-adjust-at-top style. Just keep it locked down tight if you don't use it, and it won't bother you. One in awhile, it's pretty handy for ensuring the (plunger) indicator tip is properly perpendicular to the work. Not even sure when fine-adjust-at-base would even be used, unless you are zeroing the needle by position instead of just rotating the dial.

Anyways, like everyone else said: get a Noga, perhaps more than one. They make a huge difference. It's the arms that make the difference, not the actual base, but if you look for the arms as parts they're basically the cost of an entire unit.

 

[ttabbal]

I prefer not to spin the dial on DTIs. The only ones I have are tenths reading and it's really difficult to get right that way. With the base adjust, I just tweak that a little and I'm right on.

 

[DavidR8]

I prefer not to spin the dial on DTIs. The only ones I have are tenths reading and it's really difficult to get right that way. With the base adjust, I just tweak that a little and I'm right on.

This is the issue I have with my DTIs and the top adjust. With my tenths DTIs I cannot seem to do the adjust without spinning the dial. Maybe it's a practice thing for me.

Last night I disassemble my large single knob base and polished up the pivots and the filed the ends of the tension rods smooth. Made a difference to the action but the head is still pretty clunky.

 

[MrWhoopee]

The snake style holders look like they might be a good option. Have any of you bought one?

The proper name is "donkey dick". I have one of the Flex-bar brand, which I acquired while working in bio research. It has a rotating knob FAB. It's never been rigid enough, even after tightening the cable. The magnet is not strong enough and the push-button release is too stiff. Never used a Starrett.

 

[MrWhoopee]

I recently scabbed this one together using a Mighty-Mag base I got with the Dead Man's tools in '80. No fine-adjust, but a powerful magnet and surprisingly rigid.

 

[ThinWoodsman]

I prefer not to spin the dial on DTIs. The only ones I have are tenths reading and it's really difficult to get right that way.

That's true, DTIs are a bit finicky. I've been mostly using plunger-style indicators - larger face, less trouble to adjust, not as much trouble with cosine error, and you can change the tip to match what you are doing. The DTIs have all been in a drawer gathering dust since I acquired tenths plunger-style indicators.

 

[Tozguy]

The proper name is "donkey dick". I have one of the Flex-bar brand, which I acquired while working in bio research. It has a rotating knob FAB. It's never been rigid enough, even after tightening the cable. The magnet is not strong enough and the push-button release is too stiff. Never used a Starrett.

Yikes, maybe if we called it by another name it would work better

 

[Larry$]

I have a Noga that works very well. The base adjustment is far better than a top adjuster, at least for me. I use it for both the 3/8" hold and the dovetail DTIs. Finally got a nice Mitutoyo DTI, no more needle jumping around.
Now I need to get a better holder for the quill on the mill. Present one is a cheap import, not worth its cheap price.

 

[darkzero]

Now I need to get a better holder for the quill on the mill. Present one is a cheap import, not worth its cheap price.

Nogas cover that for me too. The Indicol style clamp one I rarely use but would be the most versatile.

 

[DavidR8]

Mill-wise I use the Starrett 196 rigged up so that it fits in the ER-32 collet. Is there an advantage to having it mount on the quill?