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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

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GoceKU

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Today i had some good news and some bad news, good news the material i've order come in after two weeks, this is some 30x40mm 1/4 inch wall tubing, from what i'll be making a gearbox and transfer case brace and mounts the oem mounts are junk so i'll be re engineering the entire mounting and protection for the driveline, the steel place did not have such small but thick wall tubing in stock so they ordered me some, the bad news come when i started to look in the the front wings on the little Niva, i pop off some cracked filler and realized the whoever ever "fix" those wings simply pop retted some metal and put on a plastic filler over the top, on the corners he even used thin aluminium sheets, i did not expect to have to redo the entire front end , even the front panel in between the headlights has lots of rust, this won't be fun to fix or do body work, i may focus on the new cross member and underneath to let the disappointment pass.
IMG_20181123_192220.jpgIMG_20181125_184233.jpgIMG_20181125_184239.jpgIMG_20181125_184248.jpgIMG_20181125_184730_1.jpg
 

Boswell

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Feb 27, 2014
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GoceKU, By the time you finish there is not going to be much left of the original Niva.
 

GoceKU

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GoceKU, By the time you finish there is not going to be much left of the original Niva.

That may not be a bad thing, especially for electrical and rubber components, because the factory ones are rubbish.
 

Franko

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My beloved hot tub kicked the bucket this year. Repairs are more than I can justify so I have to get rid of it.
I can get it hauled off for $300 or do it myself. I can't spare the $300.
The city will take anything that's under 6 feet. The tub is 7.5' square, so I'll have to quarter it.
It's heavy, about 950 pounds and I don't have a helper.

I removed all the panels and pumps and whatever else would come loose. I hoped that maybe I could mostly peel it down to the tub, but the foam is such a mess that isn't practical. So, I sawed the tub from the inside on the four sides down to the bottom. The cuts didn't go all the way through to the outside. The plan is to turn it upside down and finish the cuts on the bottom and outsides. My heavy duty Sawsall went through the fiberglass and hoses easily.

The plan was to slide the hot tub off the deck and turn it upside down in the yard on some 4x4s.

I wrapped a chain around the back of the tub and secured some straps to a couple of deck piers and used two come-alongs to pull the tub about a third of the way over the edge of the deck.
Twelve years ago, I could scoot the hot tub with muscles when it was empty. Not so, now.

IMG_1177.JPG

Then I used a floor jack and a tall screw jack to tilt it up as high as I could then used a farm jack to tilt it to as high as I could get it.
This is where it got dangerous. I had to keep tapping the base of the farm jack forward with a sledge hammer as it got higher. The ladders were a feeble attempt to shore it up. It's a good thing it didn't come off the jack.

IMG_1178.JPG

A friend agreed to come over after work and helped me give it a mighty push to tip it off the deck. I may could have done it myself, but if I couldn't, I would have been in a pickle. Fortunately, it landed stood up on its side and one more push to tump it over upside down.

IMG_1180.JPG

From here, I'll finish the cuts and hopefully it will be in four pieces. I have helper that can come on the weekend and help me get the quarters on a cart to haul to the curb.

This was a sad project to start. But, I'm over it now and in the get-er-done mode.
 
Last edited:

Boswell

Hobby Machinist since 2010
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752
gotta luv a Sawzall. Glad you got turned over safely.
 

bakrch

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Nov 24, 2018
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16
I finally made a 1/2" indexable tool for my Holdridge 3D radius cutter (to utilize the 80 or so DCMT inserts I have). The issue is that their indexable tools only work with their over-priced inserts ($20+ a pop). I really dislike this practice, so I set off to hopefully save people the aggravation of having to deal with their antics.

Left side of the first picture is the brazed tool the unit comes with. The central tool is the actual 2" long indexable tool Holdridge sells (which I modified to fit standard inserts). The right side is the one I made.




My findings show that the only reason a DCMT (1/4 IC) will not work is due to the insert pocket being milled to the 11-degree relief angle of the Holdridge insert. This pushes the insert out so the holes of a DCMT will not align with the screw hole on the tool. Straighten these sides on their tool and you are good to go. BUT, the tools are expensive at around $90 a pc, so if anybody wants my .STEP file I would be happy to share it.

It took me a whole 1hr to make, well worth the time.

 

Cadillac

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Mar 12, 2018
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795
My beloved hot tub kicked the bucket this year. Repairs are more than I can justify so I have to get rid of it.
I can get it hauled off for $300 or do it myself. I can't spare the $300.
The city will take anything that's under 6 feet. The tub is 7.5' square, so I'll have to quarter it.
It's heavy, about 950 pounds and I don't have a helper.

I removed all the panels and pumps and whatever else would come loose. I hoped that maybe I could mostly peel it down to the tub, but the foam is such a mess that isn't practical. So, I sawed the tub from the inside on the four sides down to the bottom. The cuts didn't go all the way through to the outside. The plan is to turn it upside down and finish the cuts on the bottom and outsides. My heavy duty Sawsall went through the fiberglass and hoses easily.

The plan was to slide the hot tub off the deck and turn it upside down in the yard on some 4x4s.

I wrapped a chain around the back of the tub and secured some straps to a couple of deck piers and used two come-alongs to pull the tub about a third of the way over the edge of the deck.
Twelve years ago, I could scoot the hot tub with muscles when it was empty. Not so, now.

View attachment 280914

Then I used a floor jack and a tall screw jack to tilt it up as high as I could then used a farm jack to tilt it to as high as I could get it.
This is where it got dangerous. I had to keep tapping the base of the farm jack forward with a sledge hammer as it got higher. The ladders were a feeble attempt to shore it up. It's a good thing it didn't come off the jack.

View attachment 280915

A friend agreed to come over after work and helped me give it a mighty push to tip it off the deck. I may could have done it myself, but if I couldn't, I would have been in a pickle. Fortunately, it landed stood up on its side and one more push to tump it over upside down.

View attachment 280916

From here, I'll finish the cuts and hopefully it will be in four pieces. I have helper that can come on the weekend and help me get the quarters on a cart to haul to the curb.

This was a sad project to start. But, I'm over it now and in the get-er-done mode.


Reminds me of two years ago mid December about 12” of snow on the ground. 2:30 clock out time at work. We get in our cars and head out. We have a windee road about a 1/4 mile to main road, We are a large company. Get past the first curve and find a six seater hot tub on its side in the middle of the road. Wtf surmised that someone had in the back of truck undid the straps and hit the gas. Fly dumped of course. Had to go get the bobcat and get rid of it for them.
Threw in the dumpster and the forks made short work of it.
I just winterized mine dread startup in the spring for just that reason. Looked like a nice tub.
 

Franko

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Feb 24, 2015
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It was a very nice tub, Cadillac. It was Hot Springs and cost a bundle 12 years ago. They are a double bundle, now.

It should be a crime to do what I did to it, but it was all but gone. The main very cool jet, the moto massage, was malfunctioning and the heater didn't work and it had a leak in one of the PVC joints way up where it couldn't be accessed. It would have been about $3K to have repaired. Used hot tubs don't get a very good price, plus the buyer has to be able to come get it.
I couldn't have given it away to anyone who would pick it up.
 

SubtleHustle

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All that is left is to blast the rust off of the sides and some paint.
Any suggestions for a color? My first thought is IH red.
View attachment 281058
That is beautiful! Fine job!! I bet a darker green would make that shine really pop. Just my 2 cents. No matter what, very well done!
 

dave_r_1

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Feb 3, 2016
Messages
469
Almost 2 years ago, I made a plow front-end for my walk-behind 52" hydro mower, and it's worked pretty good for me, except that it doesn't like starting when it's cold out (below about -15C or so). Last year, I upgraded the battery, starter solenoid and wiring to the starter, switched back to the original air filter setup from the remote setup I made for it, and figured out that I need to turn the choke on when I turn the engine off, as some moisture always seems to be in the intake of the carb, and that water will freeze and prevent the choke from fully closing (it's spring loaded going in that direction, but not in the other direction, when I turn the choke off, so I can push it through that little bit of ice).

From an email chat with a Kohler engineer (it's a Kohler CV22S engine), he suggested that getting warm air from around the muffler would help. Other versions of this engine, which have a different air filter/intake setup, Kohler sells a kit for doing this, but they don't make one for my version, as it was meant only for being used in the summer.

So, I made a new air filter housing so I can get warm air from around the muffler:
IMG_1308.jpg

It's not quite finished yet, as I need to make an end-plate for the heat shield around the muffler, and I've got some stick-on cork material to seal up the joints of the intake a little better, then I'll test it and see if it does make a noticeable different in intake air temps (well, I don't have a remote temp sensor, so I'll just use an IR gun to check if the intake housing gets warmer).

If it doesn't make a difference, I'll try reducing the gap between the heat shield and the muffler.

As for "real" machining content, I tried using my lathe to part of pieces of a muffler pipe adapter (1/2 of it for welding onto the heat shield, 1/2 for the air filter housing). I would get most of the way through, then just as the parting tool would break through, it would catch on the edge of the adapter, and wind up mashing it up into a ball. I'm a slow learner, so I did it twice. Third time, I just clamped it to the edge of a table and used a cutoff wheel on my angle grinder.

I also tried brazing the pieces together (you get see the part I tried, it's the brass-colored bit in the middle of the air cleaner housing). It worked, but not very well, I had trouble getting both pieces to the right temp, and I put WAY to much heat into the top flat plate, warping it pretty badly. I went back to mig welding, and that worked better. It looks terrible (I'm using flux-core), but I'm not burning holes in it like I I was even this spring. Progress!
 

SubtleHustle

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Working on making a radius turner, for the lathe. I decided to mount it where the compound rest would go, so I got my first shot at cutting a dovetail. I've got to say, I am very pleased with how it came out.
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grotto

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Sep 18, 2015
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Well...was going to make a beautiful knob style chuck key, to adjust the back of my 4 jaw. Instead I had my first crash, on my mill. Ended up taking too deep of a cut, while climb milling, and it broke my 1/2" end mill, as well as put some scars on my work.View attachment 280745View attachment 280746
Had to finish up the squared off section by hand, ie filing. But it fits in the 4 jaw anyways.View attachment 280747View attachment 280748
Need to wait for my new endmill to come in, to finish it up...guess it's on hold for now.
On another note, I decided to use a piece of old aluminum ladder, that I was saving for casting, as a holder for my R8 milling attachments and collets.
View attachment 280750
That came out alright I guess..anyrate, thanks for looking.
Nice looking lamp! Did you make it?
 

dave_r_1

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Feb 3, 2016
Messages
469
To follow up my work from yesterday (https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/potd-project-of-the-day-what-did-you-make-in-your-shop-today.67833/page-30#post-626994), I was using it today, the temp was just below freezing, and after the engine was running for a couple minutes, the air cleaner housing was just on the edge of being too hot to touch with my hand, so I would say it works a little too well right now.

I'll probably go back to the junkyard and get the nozzle off the air cleaner where I got the flexible tubing from, as I think it has a temperature sensitive valve to control how hot the air going to the air filter gets.
 

Cadillac

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Mar 12, 2018
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A0E573C7-E361-44A0-BEFD-F5B00B18CDF5.jpeg
Wasn’t done in a day about 3days 2 hours at a time. That’s all the free time I can get sometimes. :( This is actually my first attempt at dovetails. Worked good no surprises. I have a bunch of 2 1/2 round so it seemed perfect for the project. Don’t have any pics of the dovtail work sometimes I get involved in the job and don’t think of it. Here’s a shot of drilling out a 15/16 hole talk about some spiral chips.
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Then I broke out the boring head and opened it up the 1.000. My second time using this boring head. I love it very well built and a pleasure using no makers mark it bores and faces.
D95B7835-DDE8-4755-94A5-5E24457E72AD.jpeg
Was happy with fit and finish. 8465FE6D-CABB-415A-918A-42C23D641593.jpeg
Next was slitting it. This was what I came up with to hold with the arbor I have for the slitting saw. Was a little challenging figure out how to hold and get the clearance.
One question I have is do you cut the hole slot at once full depth or cut a it with multiple passes? I did .100 cuts with no problem it was just my first time using slitting saw. Didn’t want to mess it up. Usually I’d cut on the bandsaw but I wanted a crisp, straight cut.
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After doing this I found I need to make acouple slitting saw arbors. All that’s left is to drill and tap a hole on top for setting height. I’m waiting for the 2” long fine thread set screw to come in. And I have to make the knurled adjustment ring that comes on tool holders. I need another day in the shop.
 

Alexander McGilton

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Nov 26, 2018
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Nice idea using round stock to make the holder, I might do the same but to make a MT3 tool holder. About the slitting saw depth of cut, it actually runs smother if its deep, more tooth engaged at once so it doesn't skip tooth to tooth. Much like table sawing thin wood verses resawing. If it squeals and burns the oil then you have lost the staggered tooth profile of the kurf and it's binding. Sharpen or throw away.
 

SubtleHustle

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Started my Boise Crane, restoration/metal conversion project today. Wish I had more time, but probably will not be able to continue again until next weekend. Gonna have a full week. Here's a few pics so far...
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Surprman

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For two years, the bottom 120 degree hinge on the door of my lazy-susan cabinet has been broken. To get stuff out we (mainly my wife) had to open it and hold the door up with our foot. I had not been able to find a replacement hinge ( but I was not looking very hard). It was a rainy day and I figured out that I could fabricate the broken part. It only took about 4 hours. Door works good now. Kind-of wish I did it sooner.

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pontiac428

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Did a "copy and paste" on both acme screws on my Atlas 10 along with new feed nuts. Got the backlash on the compound from .025 down to .008, and the cross feed from .055 down to .001. That's going to make a difference!


Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
 

ACHiPo

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303 stainless stand-offs for a vintage car luggage rack. Good learning experience, especially the polishing to a chrome-like finish. Not perfect, but I'm pretty happy with them.

IMG_1753.JPGIMG_1754.JPG

This is what they will look like when installed:
IMG_1262.JPGIMG_1264.JPG
 
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