Maybe I'm just blowing smoke here, as I'm NOT an experienced welder. But I own a Millermatic MIG welder and have used for several projects. What's always bothered me was that the blanketing gas (CO2) shuts off as soon as you release the trigger. I've always been paranoid that with the gas shut off, the fresh, hot weld can oxidize. So I devised a circuit that would keep the gas valve open a while (0 to 10 seconds) a the end of the weld.
My little MSC band saw has been annoying me for far to long with it's short stature, flimsy legs that let it walk all over my garage whenever I ask it to do something for me. And, when I do want it to move somewhere if effectively resists with its sharp sheet metal leg bottoms.
So, this is what it got.
Treadmill feet on the end with the handle.
And snow blower tires for the motor end.
It is a huge improvement!
Today i started on mounting the seats in the Little Lada, the seats are from a Peugeot 605 which is a 4 door and much bigger and wider than the little Niva, i was able to find manually adjustable seats but they don't tilt forwards, so i'm modifying the sliders using the parts i machined to make them tilt and lock, I only managed to modify and mount only passenger seat on the front side the french who made the seats know how to make a good seat, also wanted to see how big of a rim i can turn in my lathe, 17" won't fit, the relieved part clears but the inside edge doesn't clears.
Thanks! Mine is pretty much the cheapest MIG unit that Miller sells (Millermatic 135, 115V wire feed welder). Don't know if they have this feature in their better units. But even if they did, I'd not expect it in the "bottom of the line" one I got.
As for Miler paying for the idea ... would certainly be nice, but just a dream. But by posting it here, I've put it in the public domain. So they'd have no legal obligation to pay for or acknowledge it if they used it. Ah, well ... I'm retired, and OK with the nest egg I have.
And as with Rick Sparber ( https://rick.sparber.org ) and many, many others (including all those who post here and on other forums, send articles to the various machinists' magazines, or make those great Youtube videos) my goal is to help others to succeed. Same with the articles I submit to Home Shop Machinist/Machinist's Workshop. I enjoy the kudos from my peers, and the occasional "like."
Here is the thing I made.
Its purpose is to position a 3-D camera so it can rotate 360º around the subject's outstretched arm to document upper arm flab.
The client is a skin product testing lab. It is of my design. They told me what it needed to do and I figured out how to do it.
The base is made of Baltic Birch plywood and painted with spray pickumup truck bed coating. That stuff is great. It covers well, needs no priming and is tough as nails.
the original idea was to weld the joints, but I wasn't up to it. It is 16 ga. aluminum square tube. I practiced for hours but couldn't manage two successful welds in a row. I think the problem was the thin edge end of one tube butting against the side of another. The corner made that piece thicker and more of a heat sink. I couldn't get past the difference in thickness. Try as I might, I couldn't make the puddle go down the seams. Hot enough to puddle the side melted the end away.
So, I resorted to plan B, attatch the tubes with joints and hardware. A detail of the noodley elbow joint. This took a long time to make.
All those holes at all those positions and angles were difficult to clamp tight and square, and drill. Clamping and drilling it under the head of the mill was complicated and tedious.
The hub and counter weights so the arm would balance with the weight of the 3-D camera. It has a disk break and clamp to hold position attached by a T-bushing of delrin-like plastic.
The USB cable from the camera passes through the axle shaft so it won't wrap around the axle.
The hub was equally tedious to make with a flange, section of square tube and two .25 x 2" straps. Welding would have been so much easier and faster. The weights are mounted on an oak angle attached with a 5/8" bolt, fender washers, and 1 inch bushings
This is a detail of the camera mount. A couple of arka clamp mounts so the camera can adjust forward and back, and a Panoramic swivel so it can swivel. It focuses with two laser dots that converge. Upper arms aren't cylindrical or symetrical, so the camera has to move in and out and rotate to compensate and keep the dots in the center of the upper people arms. Each image requires at least 4 images from 4 angles. That's why the 3D camera has to travel around the arms.
The raw camera images are fed into a computer which assembles them to make a virtual arm that can be twisted and turned and viewed from all angles.
made a little stand out of stainless for a wood carving Ulmadoc did for me, sanded the wood and stained it. I think it came out really nice and a big props to Mike for the carving, thanks!
also went to the scrapyard to get rid of some alu scrap/ chips and some dead Christmas tree lights. Came home with some alu sheet 3/32 x 2x3.5ft), pipe, plate, some stainless rod, a cute little copper cake tin and this chunk of stainless (16lb alone!). 6lb alu and 17lb of stainless for $10 after taking off the $2.65 I got for my crap.
shortly I'll be making a mortar and pestle for the wife's Christmas present out of some 3" stainless round and some 1" stainless rod, also from the same scrapyard. I have to ration myself or I would have space to move in the garage.
Today i continued working on the trunk lid for the little Niva, i had one big hole to fill and some considerable amount of welding to do to repair this panel, started with the big hole on the right corner, then i welded the big piece all the way around and finally moved to the smaller pieces, i waited in between tack welds for the panel to cool down to avoid distortion but i still have some but is not too bad, i'll need to ground back some of the welds before flipping it over and welding some more, this took some time also my welding mask is so bad i'm literally welding blind.
POTD was fixing a walker for my dad. He suffered a stroke about 5 years ago which really sapped his mobility. The walker side frames fold up for storage. He tends to lean really hard on it and peeled one of the corner braces off from the side frame. The corner braces are held in place with a tinner's rivet, he peeled the bracket right off the rivet.
Pretty simple fix. The tinner's rivet is around 0.186" in diameter, so same as a 10-24 screw. I used a long cap screw so the shank went all the way through the tubing and bracket. The bracket would pivot to some extent on the bolt, so made sure I had one long enough so the bracket was bearing on a smooth shank, not the threads. 10-24 bolt was slipped into place along with the corner brace and the bottom marked with a paint pen. That told me how far up to thread the cap screw. Did that work with a die held in a vise.
Dry fit things together with a regular nut and marked the bottom of the screw with a nylock nut set in place. Cut the screw with bolt cutters and cleaned up the end with a 2 x 42" sander.
Fix works great! Too bad there isn't such an easy fix for folks who've had a stroke, but that's life. At least he'll be able to shuffle through Cracker Barrel again!
Quick POTD for my lathe's QCTP tool holder racks. Wouldn't you know it, have a few new tools on their way and I ran out of space . . . Tons of designs out there, my racks use uni-strut. They make extension bars for them, but I used low profile uni-strut so TIG-welded another 6" on each one. The uni-strut is zinc-plated, so sanded that off first around the weld area (just in case the safety Nazi's read this). Still had a little of the white powder, but (for the safety nazi's) I had a fan going to blow the fumes away.
The Grizzly extension was easy to put back in place, dropped onto the vertical supports using the same holes drilled in the uni-strut. Not so lucky with my Clausing lathe, so drilled a couple of new mounting holes to slide the rack down the splash shield to the left. Was drilling the holes and noticed a funny sound coming from the drill press . . . Opened the cover and voila, turkey feathers! Yeah, mice making a nest in my drill press.
So where'd the feathers come from? We raise turkeys for slaughter. Had a tom a couple of years ago that weighed 72 lbs.! Breast meat alone was 22 lbs. We give them all the corn they can eat, they go from chicks in the spring to 35 - 70 lbs. in 7 months. Anyway, here's my better half with Thanksgiving dinner. My morbid sense of humor, but it just struck me very funny to see her with the bagged bird with the legs and butt sticking out. Guess next year I'll clean up the feathers after plucking instead of leaving the task to the mice. . .
Final product on the lathes. Yes, CDCOtools knows me very well . . .
Nice fix. Be thankful that he uses it, my Dad would hardly be caught dead using the one I bought for him. Sold it for a fifth of cost when we sold off the estate, still had the little nubbly things on the wheels.
I’m on a kick of repairing broken things around the house. My new project is fixing the latch handle on my Andersen sliding glass door. The original latch was made of some sort of cast mystery metal. Of course, it is weak and it broke. The molded latch was connected to a small metal “key” with a brass pin. Initially I was going to replicate the molded part, including cutting the slot and making a new brass pin (if the original didn’t fit). It dawned on me that it would be far easier to make that section as a single part. (It was made separate by Andersen to simplify the mold most likely).
My plan was to drill two holes on the turned part and spot weld through the holes to attach the handle section. That failed miserably. I didn’t hit the welds with enough time and they came apart during clean-up.
I cleaned up the parts and decided to drill and tap them for a screw to attach them instead. That came out pretty good. I will be using JB weld to cover the screw hole before I sand and paint it.
I finished the snowblower conversion from 3PTH mount to front mount and got all the hoses set up but didn't have any dust covers or plugs for the QC's (quick connects). The place I bought the QC's from doesn't carry any dust covers or plugs that size. So I figured I would make some plugs. Haven't figured out how to make the covers yet though.
Here's a pic of a smaller 1/2" QC and 2 of the 3/4" plugs I made. The bright shiny one is before heat treating and dunking in an oil bath.
and here are 2 of them in the rear QC's. There are 2 more in the front.
Today i had a hour to spare so i keep on working on the trunk lid, i did little grounding on welds but i turn it upside down and cut off the gas struts mounts, they have been ripped out and welded on with an arc welder, they are thin and have an old style mount hole, i decided to change them, i'll be using different struts and those mounts cover over the horrible welds, then i moved over to the inside repair, i took my time and welded it without any holes. The weather is getting really cold and the big garage has no heat so i'm taking only smaller jobs to finish them quickly.
I stuffed up a cool looking handle for my new cross slide.
I broke a 6mm tap, no warning and tapping by hand when it shattered.
I drilled a 9mm hole followed by a 14mm hole then a 5/8" hole to give a stepped hole that fit the handle tightly, hammered som al foil into the bottom end for continuity and set it up in the eroder.
It is under the kero when working and the little pump squirts into the burn hole.
Tommorow I hope to get it all out.
Bah humbug I say.
I have portable heaters, but they are too small to make a difference the big garage is 158 square meters with tall ceilings so until i divide it or get a big burner type heater it will be slow going, i may try and rig up an car webasto diesel heater.
It's never been my intention to document me fixing this car, this is an machining forum after all, i'll stop posting about it if any one means it, i only wanted to share what i'm working on in my shop.
Sorry if I gave you with wrong idea. I did not mean you should not post! I am enjoying following along with your efforts! I guess I was trying to say it should be more prominently featured in it's own thread. Can't wait to see it in action.