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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

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GoceKU

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Tractors, tractors, they are the workhorses of the countryside, many people have reached their age because some of the manual labor has been done by machinery most of it powered by a tractor. Compared with cars, trucks, buses and boats they are the easiest to fix only thing to be aware is, nothing is light everything is cast steel and 5x bigger than it needs to be so it can last. Tractors i've worked on splitting them to do clutches, diff gears, brakes, seals is not that hard if you plan it out, i've used my cars, with a bar bolted to the front to separate them and put them back together.
 

GoceKU

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I've been busy at work but this evening i had some time to spare and get couple of things done on the little niva, most of them are to convert it to run on LPG (propane), first thing i did is to shorten the tank mount, i had to weld in two bolt in the ends so i can bolt it down, the law says it need a bar in the back to be more sturdy in case of a rear end collision. The front of the tank is secured by rubberised straps and is against the back seat. So to Place the tank i had to install the side trim and back seat i also washed and installed the rubber floor mat for the trunk it is ripped in many places but i still installed it i can always install one more on top of it. Then i drilled and bolted the plastic connectors (vents) that go thru the floor, the Niva is difficult to install things here because is has big frame rails all over, so i had to used extra long bolts and bolt everything, then started to bolt things one by one, mount, straps, testfited everything, dis assembled and painted all the brackets and final assembled everything with new lock nuts and big washers, then i moved on the mounting the LPG filler neck, i put it next to the petrol cap inside the fuel door with the adapter i made on my lathe couple months ago.
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tjb

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Aside from having my wife help lift the half axles in place, I did all the work myself. The shop hoist worked out well; a great investment. A second hoist would have made the job easier. Reassembling the two halves was a bit of a problem. I wheeled the rear end into place with the rear wheels. I had attached an 8' length of 3" channel to the draw bar which let me tweak the orientation horizontally and vertically. Moving slowly and checking alignment often was the key.

I'm glad your experience working with acrylic was good.
One of my neighbors has a large channel iron beam stretched across the ceiling in one part of his shop - with about 9 or 10 feet of ceiling clearance. That setup is perfect for splitting large tractors. The clutch in my 383 actually gave out working on his farm, so we did the repair right there. With two of them and one of me, it went unbelievably smoothly.

Regards,
Terry
 

dulltool17

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When I was a kid, a good friend of our family (actually a cousin) was working on his John Deere. I don't remember which model, but it had dual rear wheels and AWD, so was pretty big. He h ad it split front & rear. The Front came off the supports and he ended up with it on his knee. No one was around, so he ended up lifting it back up onto the support himself. He was a biiiiig man, who had previously lifted and carried my Grandmother's 300# safe on his shoulder after our farm was destroyed by a tornado, so I can just imagine him doing this. He never worked on tractors alone after that.
 

RJSakowski

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One of my neighbors has a large channel iron beam stretched across the ceiling in one part of his shop - with about 9 or 10 feet of ceiling clearance. That setup is perfect for splitting large tractors. The clutch in my 383 actually gave out working on his farm, so we did the repair right there. With two of them and one of me, it went unbelievably smoothly.

Regards,
Terry
Were I able to suspend a length of channel. I probably would have. Unfortunately, my barn has less than 8' ceiling height and if I were to straddle the main beams with a length of channel, I would decrease the clearance to about 6' which makes that approach impractical. I did use one of the main beams to lift the cab for clearance. I have split my much smaller Ford 8N using the beam as a sky hook though.
 

tjb

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Were I able to suspend a length of channel. I probably would have. Unfortunately, my barn has less than 8' ceiling height and if I were to straddle the main beams with a length of channel, I would decrease the clearance to about 6' which makes that approach impractical. I did use one of the main beams to lift the cab for clearance. I have split my much smaller Ford 8N using the beam as a sky hook though.
You gotta use what you've got! I'm just thankful to have a neighbor that has one.

Regards,
Terry
 

GoceKU

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Today i decided to switch what i've been doing last few weeks, and to do some machining, i welded this wheel spacer about a week ago and today i chucked it in my lathe and started making cuts. I was told this is a high carbon steel, and expected C45 but cuts more like 4140. The weld had few hard spots and they broke two inserts but the 1K62 had no troubles cutting it, on the first cut the saw cut was very noticeable probably too much pressure on the blade i put on a 2 degree taper on the middle, and plan later on to machine a indention for stick on centre caps.
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mattthemuppet2

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made an ugly but functional motion sensor LED light for inside the garage



the idea is that it gives off enough light for my wife and kids to find their way into the car, without having to turn on the main lights which they'll then forget to turn off. On the first instance, it was completely unsuccessful, but I have high hopes :)
 

Janderso

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POTD was crawling in the attic of my shop to string 20A 220 and 110 lines to my new to me Tormach 1100 Series 3. Yes, it's ALIVE! Haven't made any chips yet, have a big learning curve to go through still. My wife is a Unigraphics designer and is pretty adept at SolidWorks too. So I'll start using Solidworks and go to Fusion 360 for the CAM/post processor. Once I get the hang of Solidworks, will probably go to Fusion for the CAD also. Previous owner of this mill was a Fusion user and spoke very highly of it.

First thing after powering it up was to install and tram the Saunders tooling plate. One of the things that attracted me to this particular used mill was the owner didn't go cheap on the accessories. The Saunders tooling plate (aluminum) is about $900. He bought two matched/ground Glacern 6" vises too, certified for height on the deck within 0.0002". Trammed those in too with the (you guessed it) actual Indicol spindle adapter and Interapid DTI. Once trammed in, I covered the tooling plate with some Saunders rubber pads. These came with the mill, receipt shows they were $5 each. Should do a nice job keeping chips out of the tooling plate holes, will cut a couple to better cover the area around the 4th axis.

The Tormach has a nice tool(ing) storage compartment under the mill which now houses some extra parts, 6 or 8 sets of Aluminum vise soft jaws, 2 tombstones for the 4th axis, 3-jaw chuck/5-C collet holder for the 4th axis, T-nuts, hold downs, way oil, lifting bar, etc.

Also cut a couple of pieces of plywood for a 16" x 30" cart that'll hold some of the tooling. I've got 60+ TTS tool holders for this mill, so going to break out the Brother label maker and start labeling things here shortly. Once nice feature on the Tormach (and I'm sure others) is I can populate the automatic tool changer with 10 tools and have it automatically cycle them over the electronic tool setter and record the tool heights. The mill also came with a Tormach granite surface plate and height gauge with a USB link to PathPilot for recording the tool heights, so will probably use both methods and do some learning.

Still have a lot of work to do before I make chips. The cooling system uses a 1/2 HP sump pump with a plastic tub set to the LH side. The mill came with 5 gallons of water-based coolant, need to mix it up and do a little plumbing.

I'll use the mill with the open enclosure this year and come up with a design for a full enclosure probably next spring (too many other things to work on . . . .). The mill also came with a MistAway filter/oil collector that will eventually get plumbed into the finished cabinet. These go for $1350 on Amazon and are supposed to do a really good job sucking the coolant out of the air. My unit includes a HEPA filter that goes on top, close to the one pictured below but mine will need about another 15" of head room. More to follow, still have 3 boxes of stuff that came with the mill to go through.
Thanks for looking,

Bruce


Crawled into the barn attic to run a couple of power lines to my new to me Tormach 1100.
View attachment 297537


Saunders Tool fixture plate covers to keep most of the swarf out of the 1/2" fixture holes. The top half of the holes are reamed to around 0.501" (1/2" dowels slip in/out with some effort), 1/2-13" tapped holes through the bottom half. The rubber sheets have 1/2" plugs that drop into the fixture plate holes to secure them in place.
View attachment 297538


Using the tooling cabinet to store extra soft/hard jaws, tombstones and other hardware
View attachment 297539View attachment 297540


Mill came with 60+ TTS tool holders and 50+ ER20/ER16 collets, Haimer 3-D probe, and an ETS that's in (hopefully) some of the boxes I haven't gone through yet.
View attachment 297541


Using a 16" x 30" HF cart to hold some of the tooling. Parallels, 4th axis tail stock, electronic tool setting height gauge on the bottom, more commonly used stuff up top.
View attachment 297542


MistAway MA700 unit, have the same one with a HEPA filter on top to keep from breathing coolant fume/vapor
View attachment 297543
Bruce,
There is no going back man. You have entered a new world.
Bon Voyage my friend
 

Cadillac STS

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For the project above I needed a drill bit extension for the 7/64 drill hole that I press fit the 1/8 rod in.

Put a steel rod in the lathe. Using same 7/64 bit drill in one inch. Then on the drill press drill all the way through and tap all the way through for two 1/4 - 20 set screws.

It worked perfectly for what it needed to do.

Quick and simple extension to get into the deep spot.

297960
 
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GoceKU

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Today was a very unusual day, trying to get some work done in the big garage. I had a big plan to get the LPG, Fuel, exhaust, and cooling system completed. The LPG was first because the exhaust and cooling gets run on top of it. So i measured and picked a rubber lined copper pipe that was about a metar too long and run it underneath the little niva and connected it to the high pressure tank that i mounted in the trunk. I left it loose at first than i run the fill line because of the location i had to go from inside the car to the outside and then back inside. I picked out the longest line i had and it was very tight, then i secured the tank in place and tighten the lines, then i went underneath the little niva ( my injured back loved it) and using galvanized P clamps secured both fill and delivery lines as high as i could, i used self drilling big headed screws that i drilled directly in the frame. Then i coil wrap the extra pipe and connected it to the valve and filter, then i presurased the system and tested for leaks with some soapy water. I was getting phone calls about every 30 -45 minutes by this time. But the phone calls intesitafited to less then 10 min between them so after looking thru my spares wich i did when on the phone i found me a new Bosch oxygen sensor and managed to mount the front part of the exhaust and the sensor. By this time i was more on the phone then underneath the little niva so i stopped working. I'm getting excited to get it fired and hear the new exhaust.
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Janderso

Jeff Anderson
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Been watching videos to figure out my DRO PROS EL400.
Figured out the bolt circle. There is probably four ways to go about this. A rotary table would be in addition to.
You guys probably think this is kids stuff. It is, so i’m A kid.
I just looked at the clock, 2:42 AM. Been getting up earlier and earlier these days.
It was fun!3AB48CA3-9D25-4D78-95DB-E302EDF44076.jpeg
 
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BGHansen

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Bruce,
There is no going back man. You have entered a new world.
Bon Voyage my friend
You couldn't be more correct about slippery slope. Fortunately, my 40' x 96' barn is getting pretty full, so not too much more going into it unless I get rid of some stuff first. The Tormach is really low-end for accuracy relative to what I've seen written about a Haas mini-mill for example. But I'm not making parts for the space shuttle and figure 0.003" give or take will be close enough. Fortunately, the machine I bought was pretty well tooled so I haven't had to break the bank adding things like tapping heads (came with 3) or probes or tool setters. One of these days I might even get a chance to start using it! Currently helping my better half build a new chicken coop in the shop. Photos to follow, our chickens will live in better digs than a lot of people.

Bruce
 

Janderso

Jeff Anderson
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You couldn't be more correct about slippery slope. Fortunately, my 40' x 96' barn is getting pretty full, so not too much more going into it unless I get rid of some stuff first. The Tormach is really low-end for accuracy relative to what I've seen written about a Haas mini-mill for example. But I'm not making parts for the space shuttle and figure 0.003" give or take will be close enough. Fortunately, the machine I bought was pretty well tooled so I haven't had to break the bank adding things like tapping heads (came with 3) or probes or tool setters. One of these days I might even get a chance to start using it! Currently helping my better half build a new chicken coop in the shop. Photos to follow, our chickens will live in better digs than a lot of people.

Bruce
You know Bruce, when you get proficient wait that CNC gadget, you may not want to use the manual tools.
Say it ain't so.
Golly, your barn sure is big! Good for you!
 

T Bredehoft

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It was fun!
My wife and kids just don't understand how it can be fun. I did "punch the numbers" hand keying programs for about 10 years. I had the use of two machines which had been retrofitted with CNC Controllers but they needed M-Codes and I became proficient. I made subroutines for the alphabet and numbers, did all sorts of what i considered fancy work. The machines did have canned subroutines for ramping down to bore holes. and tool offsets.
But it was FUN.
 

BGHansen

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You know Bruce, when you get proficient wait that CNC gadget, you may not want to use the manual tools.
Say it ain't so.
Golly, your barn sure is big! Good for you!
Hi Jeff,

Like everyone always says, "build it bigger, can never have too much space". Our original barn was a 40' x 56' x 10' with a 5" reinforced cement floor. Then I bought a Case 580 backhoe and a Ford F600 dump truck. So added on a 40' x 40' x 12' addition which still has a dirt floor. Back 40'x40' has the Case, the Ford, a Massey 35 tractor, 8 full cords of firewood, quad, John Deere mower, 5' x 10' utility trailer, brush hog, finish mower deck, and some other "stuff". Plan is to sell the Case and Massey within the next few years and buy a Kubota L-series diesel. Am probably going to have cement poured in the back half too which should run about $3500 for a 6" slab.

My shop is primarily in a 32' x 40' area of the 40' x 56' barn. Have a partition wall with a 12' slider dividing the two sides. Have a toilet and sink in the shop side though the bushes just outside the doors get watered regularly . . . . I've got wood and metal in the 32' x 40' side primarily because I store my brother-in-laws Rinker speedboat in the winter. Hoping he gets tired of boating so I can move the wood stuff to the back half, but the back side will be his to use as long as he needs it.

Yeah, freely admit we're spoiled. My wife was the one who told me to go to Denver with our son to pick up the Tormach. So currently working on a new chicken coup for her in the shop (photos to follow), and not playing with/learning the Tormach. I'll make up an aluminum sign engraved with something like "Coup designed by Tracy Hansen" and put it over the door when it's done.

Bruce


Our little slice of heaven in Charlotte, MI
298034

Area to the left of the barn is my wife's raised garden.
298035
 

savarin

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Having had the work spin many times in the past and catch me and being fed up with never being able to place "G" clamps in the correct position I felt it was about time I had some table clamps just for the drill press.
I started with around a metre of 8x25mm mild steel bar and cut a bunch of lengths off with the trusty angle grinder.
t-clamp-1.jpg
Then I mounted them in the 4 jaw to clean up the ends and ensure each set are equal in length.
t-clamp-2.jpg
This worked even with all that stick out with no problems.
Next I rounded the ends of the six verticals with a woodworking router bit
t-clamp-3.jpg
This was done in one pass each side to give a sort of rounded profile for the feet of the clamp.
Heres all the bits prepped up ready for welding
t-clamp-4.jpg
The six long pieces are chamfered at 45' so as to provide plenty of weld depth. It doesnt look it in the photo but both ends are done.
One complete clamp clamped up for welding, the short length inbetween the two sides is a spacer only.
t-clamp-5.jpg
No pics of the welding but heres the first one after a bit of sanding to clean it up.
The threaded stud is M8x1.25
t-clamp-6.jpg
And the reason for one long leg?
So it can sit down in the outer ring of the table.
t-clamp-7.jpg
But it doesnt have to
t-clamp-8.jpg
The two feet sit flat with no rocking.
I should have made these years ago.
ps. thats the cleanest that table has been since purchase.
 

GoceKU

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Last few days i've realised that the Little Niva has taken me close to double the time i expected because of the hidden rust issues, so after fixing most of them the right way is a shame to rush it at the end and fixing problems with the wiring now when is apart is much easier than later. Russian electrics are horrible and when i bought this car nothing worked i spent two evenings fixing broken wires and got some things working but with the dashboard out is much more accessible, so today i made and fitted a main distribution panel, i used Peugeot box and main fuses the niva never had main fuse they were known for catching on fire from electric shorts. I also installed three relays and a diode also two more 40 amp fuses for the radiator fans, i run thick wires to both fans and configure them to have two speeds maybe in the future if i add A/C i run two cables for switching the fans, one in the cabin and one to the thermo switch on the bottom hose, i used protective sheeting on all the cables and some nito wide tape to protect this wiring i also made a bracket to secure the battery and cut a piece of thick rubber for the bottom. Letter on found out the bracket is hitting the positive terminal so i put some red heat shrink but it will rub thru i'll have to modify it again, and lastly i cable tie everything. This took me close to 8 hours and my hands are tired from all the crimping new terminals and insulating.
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RJSakowski

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For the project above I needed a drill bit extension for the 7/64 drill hole that I press fit the 1/8 rod in.

Put a steel rod in the lathe. Using same 7/64 bit drill in one inch. Then on the drill press drill all the way through and tap all the way through for two 1/4 - 20 set screws.

It worked perfectly for what it needed to do.

Quick and simple extension to get into the deep spot.

View attachment 297960
I do this quite frequently. Rather than set screws, I just put some super glue in the hole before inserting the drill bit. I haven't had one come loose to date, The advantage is that the extension diameter can be much smaller which can useful in tight quarters.

In cases where I had to drill deep holes, I have turned down the shank of the drill so it could fit into an extension of the same diameter, I made an 18" extension for a a 5/16" drill to drill through holes for all thread in my neighbor's patio benches. Because drilling through wood can generate quite a bit of friction, I brazed the joint on that one.

The largest one that I have made was 4 ft. long for a 1-1/32" S&D drill bit. In that case, I made a collar with 1/2" holes so I could use a 1/2" shaft.
 

jdedmon91

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Released this video Monday. The saw fixture my interest some forum members. This lets me saw up rectangular stock to odd sizes in my horizontal band saw. So I can do other things.


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mmcmdl

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Lost my clevis pin for the Kubota bucket for the LAST TIME ! I don't know why my cotter pins break and the pins walk out , but it always happens at the worst times . 2 6" 3/4" diameter pins with double lock collars are now on . Lets see how long they stay on .
 

GoceKU

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Yesterday i spent the entire day grabbing gears on the road. Today i had few hours to spare so i continue working on the Little Niva i started with mounting a pre filter on the fuel line, then i bolted the fuel valve on the firewall and run a new rubber line to the fuel pump then a short line to the fine fuel filter and one more line to the carburetor. With this the fuel system is finish apart from the wiring for the LPG, then i went and pressure wash the heater housings i used a heavy duty degreaser. I cut new spange strips to stop air bypassing the heater core and when i first put it together i installed the heater core backwards with the lines facing the cabin so i had to take it apart and redo it, finally i assemble it and painted the rusty lever at the bottom, i greased all the cables. I stopped at this point because i want to insulate the fire wall before i install the heater and with the heater installed i'll finish the cooling system.
IMG_20190708_175238.jpgIMG_20190708_181151.jpgIMG_20190710_103845.jpgIMG_20190710_110357.jpgIMG_20190710_110556.jpg
 

jdedmon91

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I thought I’d post this here also. I received several spade drill blades from a viewer. So I created a holder for one of them, so I will make several more, for the rest



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GoceKU

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Today i had the day off work so i spent the entire day working on the Little Niva. I spent a lot of time insulating the fire wall with tar style sound insulation this process took me few hours then i installed the heater and made new heater lines i also connected the LPG evaporator and the expansion tank with this the cooling system is completed. I also went to get fuel i got 100 octane, 20 liters that should be half a tank. The little Niva is getting close to first fire after the repairs.
IMG_20190710_120742.jpgIMG_20190710_120746.jpgIMG_20190710_184939.jpg
 

jdedmon91

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I went by the local flea market a couple of times. I’ve picked up some punches. I wanted to make a stand so I could keep them on the workbench. So I made up this little stand. Here is the video


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Bi11Hudson

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Lost my clevis pin for the Kubota bucket for the LAST TIME ! I don't know why my cotter pins break and the pins walk out , but it always happens at the worst times . 2 6" 3/4" diameter pins with double lock collars are now on . Lets see how long they stay on .
At one time, before life got in the way, I was doing "groundskeeping" on a 5(m/l) acre plot to put a house on. I had a huge crop of clevis pins planted, but they never came up. I never found anything that would stand up for any time, I just kept plenty of extras in the tool box. Frustrating... ...

.
 
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