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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

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rwm

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Very nice looking, Radials. Should it have a way to mount on the T slot???
Robert
 

Cadillac STS

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I've been needing a decent oil cup and made this one today from some loose pieces of scrap. The body is 2" diameter .120 wall tubing and the top/ bottom are 3/8" thick x 1-3/4 diameter slugs.

View attachment 301000View attachment 301001
Nice work.

To make it better put a magnet on the bottom. Press in the bottom cap a quarter inch to acomodate the magnet so it will stay where you put it on your mill..

If the magnet sticks out the cup will sit on that and it is not as stable as it could be. If the magnet is glued in and sets off the surface with the cup sitting on the surface the magnet force will be much less.

To get the magnet glued best be sure the magnet can get in below the bottom (Won't stick out). Put some glue in, epoxy or whatever works then the magnet. Now the important part. Turn the cup over on a metal surface with the magnet in and glue not dry but put it on some wax paper to dry. The wax paper will pull off easily after it is dry. What that does is let the magnet go right to the bottom of the can with maximum direct contact and the cup also maximum contact.

If the bottom cup won't move you could still put it in your lathe and carefully bore out a place to put a rare earth magnet. Like one the size of a nickel. And mount it with same method as above.
 

Radials

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Very nice looking, Radials. Should it have a way to mount on the T slot???
Robert
Thank you Robert. That's not a bad idea but I'm actually making some table covers as well right now to keep the chips out of the T-slots on the table. This one actually just ended up being the prototype as there are few things I want to to differently and begun making the second version already.

Nick
 

silverhawk

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What is it made from? Milled from Copper then sand blasted? Metal 3D printed?
To me, it looked like a 3D print that was then cast, so there are three ways to get the finish. My curiosity is there, too, as to how he made them.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

stioc

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Making progress on Harold Hall's tool grinding rest. May be I should create a separate thread while things are fresh in my mind in case it helps anyone else interested in making one.

Setting up for creating a 30-deg ball seat in this flat. I had may be a few mm to spare on my 9" lathe - definitely a pucker factor in case the setup slipped but 120RPM, .005" cuts and lots of patience won this game. Now I have to make another one to match... :eek 2:

Double and triple checking the angle lol




 
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Moper361

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Making progress on Harold Hall's tool grinding rest. May be I should create a separate thread while things are fresh in my mind in case it helps anyone else interested in making one.

Setting up for creating a 30-deg ball seat in this flat. I had may be a few mm to spare on my 9" lathe - definitely a pucker factor in case the setup slipped but 120RPM, .005" cuts and lots of patience won this game. Now I have to make another one to match... :eek 2:

Double and triple checking the angle lol

Steady steady wins the race Stioc looks like your getting the results.i actually made a radius tool for my lathe a while back .I designed it to be able to cut radiuses or concaves in which your case would serve the purpose well.



 

stioc

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Steady steady wins the race Stioc looks like your getting the results.i actually made a radius tool for my lathe a while back .I designed it to be able to cut radiuses or concaves in which your case would serve the purpose well.
I made a tool like this one but didn't think to use it, perhaps because I'm too lazy to remove my compound slide etc. Plus it's good practice, just in case I ever get stuck somewhere where my only means of survival is a lathe without the radius turning attachment LOL
 

38Bill

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So I purchased a new clutch pressure plate that was advertised as fitting my old truck. I received it this morning to find that it will indeed fit but only after the flywheel is drilled for a new bolt pattern. I started to freak out and then thought I can do that. I have a DRO on my PM932 that will compute bolt circles but the flywheel was too large so I had to use my rotary table. Worked very well but it required centering the rotary table and then centering the flywheel on the table so it was a little more putzy. I also power tapped for the first time and that was sweet. All the holes lined up perfectly. Now just need to install it all back in the truck. That's for tomorrow.
CLUTCH1.jpgCLUTCH2.jpgCLUTCH3.jpg
 

rwm

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So I purchased a new clutch pressure plate that was advertised as fitting my old truck. I received it this morning to find that it will indeed fit but only after the flywheel is drilled for a new bolt pattern. I started to freak out and then thought I can do that. I have a DRO on my PM932 that will compute bolt circles but the flywheel was too large so I had to use my rotary table. Worked very well but it required centering the rotary table and then centering the flywheel on the table so it was a little more putzy. I also power tapped for the first time and that was sweet. All the holes lined up perfectly. Now just need to install it all back in the truck. That's for tomorrow.
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Always a scary proposition! Do you just send it back or try to modify it to work?! We all have faced this dilemma many times. Great work on this.
Robert
 

rwm

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Thank you Robert. That's not a bad idea but I'm actually making some table covers as well right now to keep the chips out of the T-slots on the table. This one actually just ended up being the prototype as there are few things I want to to differently and begun making the second version already.

Nick
I did exactly that. Now after knocking over my oil can several times I am ready to bolt it down!!!
RObert
 

dave_r_1

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The bolts should be roughly equally spaced around the flywheel, but you might still want to balance the flywheel, as it spins at up to roughly 6K rpm about a foot or so from your body.
 

Janderso

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So I purchased a new clutch pressure plate that was advertised as fitting my old truck. I received it this morning to find that it will indeed fit but only after the flywheel is drilled for a new bolt pattern. I started to freak out and then thought I can do that. I have a DRO on my PM932 that will compute bolt circles but the flywheel was too large so I had to use my rotary table. Worked very well but it required centering the rotary table and then centering the flywheel on the table so it was a little more putzy. I also power tapped for the first time and that was sweet. All the holes lined up perfectly. Now just need to install it all back in the truck. That's for tomorrow.
View attachment 301046View attachment 301047View attachment 301048
Good Job!
That's using the old noggin.
I don't know if I would have been able to pull that off. That's touchy work there.
 

38Bill

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The bolts should be roughly equally spaced around the flywheel, but you might still want to balance the flywheel, as it spins at up to roughly 6K rpm about a foot or so from your body.
We are talking about a Ford flathead that will never be turning 6K, more like 3.5K tops. The flywheel has been resurfaced and balanced. The shop says that they don't balance diaphragm pressure plates on the flywheel.
 

pontiac428

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The shop won't balance the rotating assembly? They should be happy to take your money to do that. A racing balance job from harmonic damper to clutch diaphragm, including crank, pistons, rods, wrist pins is standard fare. Even multi-diaphragm clutch packs can have the tabs indexed with a punch or paint to facilitate disassembly and reassembly after balancing. Of course, if you're shifting below 3K it's a non-issue. Like, not at all.
 

GoceKU

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We are talking about a Ford flathead that will never be turning 6K, more like 3.5K tops. The flywheel has been resurfaced and balanced. The shop says that they don't balance diaphragm pressure plates on the flywheel.
My logic is, if it is a daily driver, or a vehicle that you need to rely on, use only oem parts and keep it as standard as possible no crazy swaps or changes. If it's a weekend toy, race car then anything is acceptable, i don't know much about flathead's but as they old design i presume RPM are low, you should be fine without balancing i've done the same operation with a hand drill and a tap on a diesel and is still running in a car close to 10 years now.
 

38Bill

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Actually the manufacture of the Centerforce pressure plate balances them at the factory. They say to not balance them on the flywheel as that can actually cause them to be unbalanced due to their patented design. They have a system of moving weights that increase the clutch grip force. Anyway its a none issue in my application and the PP is perfectly centered on the flywheel.
 

GoceKU

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Today i'm back in the big garage up to my elbows in grease. The white Octavia has been in the back of couple of shots because i was waiting its turn to get fixed. This cars has been to 4 mechanic shops in the past two months and and is gotten worse it's started to leak oil and is running like crap. It's big problem is oil in the spark plug holes, and being coil on plug and an 08 is throwing every code it can. All the shops coated valve cover gasket replacement but none of them replaced it, because the valve cover is holding the camshafts. Yea the stupidest design ever having to take apart half the engine to deal with couple of leeks. So all the surrounding parts come off, fan belt timing belt one and two, yea twin cam with a small second belt to run the exhaust cam and after few hours i managed to get the valve cover and camshafts off. Yes this is a VW engine and you are lucky you did not get them in the US.
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mmcmdl

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Just finished up a " shop aid " . Made a fixture for drilling .030 holes in rubber lugs for our hollow mandrals . They've tried to tape these lugs to the OD of the mandral and try to shove the bladder thru without knocking these lugs out . When one falls out , it's 4 hours to get them back in . Now we can screw into the lugs with a 180 degree channel and they are locked in . The less experienced persons in the shop can now do it in 15 minutes or so .
 

hotrats

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Picked up a couple bench grinders at a couple flea mkts. 1st was a Craftsman with the tool grinding jig, mounted on a stand made from a drillpress. 2nd was a Milwaukee brand, "7 in. stones", with "Skil" labeled safety shields on it. It weighs about 80 lbs, can hardly hear it running from 4 feet away. Basically just cleaned and painted the Milwaukee grinder, replaced all wiring, installed LED lights in the safety shields. I mounted the Milwaukee grinder on the drill press stand, with casters so it's mobile. Couldn't be happier with the grinder, a world of difference from the HF grinder it replacedPic is from before finish. Other pic is a couple tractor 3/4" pins for a mower mount. The factory ones were very short, with the "R" type retaining pins. I made these two pins from a valve handle(top of pic), from the brewery I used to work at before it was closed. So, the old brewery lives on!grinder.jpgtractor pins (1).jpg
 

ddickey

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I made a dial making fixture. It took a lot longer than one day though so more like what have you made in the last two weeks, lol.
Anyway I bought the plans from Doug Ross AKA Rossbotics. Great project. Made some mistakes though. Nothing catastrophic though but had to adapt a thing or two.
Here is a link of Mr Ross' fixture.
IMG_20190901_081037959_HDR.jpgIMG_20190901_080926299.jpgIMG_20190901_080758605.jpg
 
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