2020 POTD Thread Archive

mattthemuppet2 said:
it's just 2 bits of 3/8" (?) rebar bent into U/V shapes so they wedge into the bottom corners of the tank and tied together with fence wire at the top. Pretty ghetto to be honest. They've corroded a bit, but overall they've held up well. I just brush them off with a wire brush after every use.
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Ah. Thanks. I'm probably over-thinking it but having multiple direct paths for oddly shaped items seems like a good idea. I bought about a 5 pound box of Arm+Hammer Washing Soda several years ago, still have probably 3/4ths of it left.
 
no you're totally right, shadowing can be an issue with electrolytic derusting, particularly on more complex shapes (like a lathe bed for example). I didn't really find any difference using one piece of rebar on the moving jaw of the Wilton vise, but there aren't really any nooks to worry about there. I did find multiple anodes useful when I was refurbing an Atlas lathe though.
 
lordbeezer said:
A fifty cal armor piercing bullet makes a nice sharp punch. Just cut the jacket off. 30 cal bullet for size comparison View attachment 332893
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I’m guessing you are enlisted or LE or in the reserves. What I’m saying is you must get 50 cal for free because I knew they were expensive. But a quick google shows 6.20 per round. It looks like a nice sharp hardened punch but I couldn’t go that route.
 
Was enlisted army 70-74. Retired LE. Cores come out as in picture. Been using one in picture for awhile. Never deformed yet. Still sharp. Have one in brass holder in shop
 
That’s cool. FWIW.... as many guns as I’ve owned and often as I’ve fired guns, never touched a .50 cal.
I’ve been tempted many years ago to get one of those bolt actions...but thankful my impulsive behavior didn’t get the best of me that time. That was 25 years ago and they were around 1700.00 then.
Anyway, I’ve always been intrigued by that caliper. But it’s out of my league. I’d have to drive a good ways just to shoot the damned thing. I’m much mellower now. But there’s still something about a round with that range that still intrigues me. it’s just an awesome round, and yet.... I know I’d never need more than a 30-06 or a 308.
By the way....is it tungsten or depleted uranium?
 
Not sure. Magnetic. Weights 342 grains.
 
mattthemuppet2 said:
no you're totally right, shadowing can be an issue with electrolytic derusting, particularly on more complex shapes (like a lathe bed for example). I didn't really find any difference using one piece of rebar on the moving jaw of the Wilton vise, but there aren't really any nooks to worry about there. I did find multiple anodes useful when I was refurbing an Atlas lathe though.
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I have a bunch of rusty steel brackets that I’d like to derust. What do you use for a power supply?


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DavidR8 said:
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any Older automobile transformer type battery charger works fine. I’ve used 100 amp booster commercial heavy duty shop battery chargers and even a trickle charger. But a 10 amp Car battery charger seems to be ideal in my opinion for big stuff like a vise. The main key is Arm & Hammer Laundry Booster. Some have used regular baking soda. But the Arm & Hammer Laundry Booster works best in my opinion.
A 10 amp charger is more than enough. It works pretty quick but basically 12 volts and 2 amps up would be enough in my opinion. You certainly don’t need a dedicated power supply. An old desktop power supply will work too because I’m pretty sure I’ve seen quite a number of people have used that.

and any steel plate will work. The steel quickly degrades. I’ve also read that if you want to not have to constantly get new anodes.....graphite works best. I’m talking about big pieces of graphite. But that’s expensive and why rebar is always a good cheap alternative. But if you have a nice piece of scrap sheet metal....then in my opinion that’s ideal.
 
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I have a 10A30V power supply that I bought to use for anodising that also works well for derusting, but an old style battery charger (no fancy electronics) works just as well as Tim points out ^
 
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