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The Voron kit build thread
- Thread starter Ken226
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
- Messages
- 1,214
I picked up one of these 5" Touchscreen displays on Amazon for about 30$. Supposedly its compatible with Raspberry Pi and Orange Pi.
kuman 5 inch Resistive Touch Screen 800x480 HDMI TFT LCD Display Module with Touch Panel USB Port and Touch Pen for Raspberry Pi 3 2 Model B RPi 1 B B+ A A+ SC5A https://a.co/d/eufwJPi
Taking Measurements from the CAD model, It looks like if i use the front skirt panels made for the 250mm version, on my 300mm version, It will leave about a 6.5" gap in the middle, which will be just about right for the 5" display.
I spent some time today modifying the .step file for the Mini12864 display that comes with the kit. It was quite a bit of work, but I think this will work for the 5" touchscreen.
The red bezel insert is screwless and snaps in (hopefully) using 3 circular dovetail snaps, if everything goes as planned.
kuman 5 inch Resistive Touch Screen 800x480 HDMI TFT LCD Display Module with Touch Panel USB Port and Touch Pen for Raspberry Pi 3 2 Model B RPi 1 B B+ A A+ SC5A https://a.co/d/eufwJPi
Taking Measurements from the CAD model, It looks like if i use the front skirt panels made for the 250mm version, on my 300mm version, It will leave about a 6.5" gap in the middle, which will be just about right for the 5" display.
I spent some time today modifying the .step file for the Mini12864 display that comes with the kit. It was quite a bit of work, but I think this will work for the 5" touchscreen.
The red bezel insert is screwless and snaps in (hopefully) using 3 circular dovetail snaps, if everything goes as planned.
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
- Messages
- 1,214
Two questions...
1.) My understanding is that this touch screen uses the GPIO pins on the SBC. Is that ok?
2.) Would you mind sharing the STEP file?
Yea. For the touch screen to work, I'll have to connect to the Orange pi using the 26 pin GPIO.
I had to order the 26 pin mal/female cable on eBay. Oddly, I couldn't find one on Amazon at all.
I've already hooked the screen up to my laptop via hdmi and can say for sure, it works. But, definitely no touchscreen using HDMI.
4-inch 26-Pin 2.54mm-Pitch Male/Female 26-wire IDC Flat Ribbon Extension | eBay
This cable is made to connect a Gertboard to a Raspberry Pi. It can also be used any other applications that requires 26-pin male/female ribbon/ IDC extension cable. The ribbon cable featured a 26-pin Male connector on one end and a 26-pin female connector on the other end.
www.ebay.com
I'll edit and upload the step file in a sec. You want the .step, or .STL? I'll just load both.
Edit to add: The forum wouldn't let me upload .step files. It gave an error message.
Last edited:
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- Jan 6, 2017
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I uploaded the .stl and .stp files to printables. You should be able to get them here:
www.printables.com
Disclaimer:
I havn't test printed one yet. It may not fit, and my CAD model might require some modification later, once i have a printer to test fit with. I have one printing now, but am still about 10 hours away from being able to verify that the screen and bezel all fit together.
From what I read on another forum, that I probably couldn't possibly find again if I actually needed to,, that particular screen has been used successfully with Orange Pi and something called "klipperscreen". "Klipperscreen" will be another thing I gotta search and learn about in the near future.
Edit to add:
Bummer. I just realized that the 26 pin GPIO cable I ordered is only 4" long. Not sure how I missed that. I ordered a 24" long male/female one I found on eBay.
Printables
www.printables.com
Disclaimer:
I havn't test printed one yet. It may not fit, and my CAD model might require some modification later, once i have a printer to test fit with. I have one printing now, but am still about 10 hours away from being able to verify that the screen and bezel all fit together.From what I read on another forum, that I probably couldn't possibly find again if I actually needed to,
, that particular screen has been used successfully with Orange Pi and something called "klipperscreen". "Klipperscreen" will be another thing I gotta search and learn about in the near future.Edit to add:
Bummer. I just realized that the 26 pin GPIO cable I ordered is only 4" long. Not sure how I missed that. I ordered a 24" long male/female one I found on eBay.
26-Pin (2x13) 2.54mm-Pitch Male/Female 26-wire IDC Flat Ribbon Extension | eBay
This 26-Pin (2x13) Male to Female 2.54mm-Pitch 26-wire IDC Flat Ribbon Extension Cable features one 26-pin (2x13) Male connector on one end and one 26-pin (2x13) Female connector on the other end. Connector A: 26-Pin Female IDC Connector, 2.54mm pitch.
www.ebay.com
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
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I printed the prototype and found two obvious problems.
Not enough space for the GPIO connector and not enough space for the backlight switch.
I fixed those issues in the model, and uploaded the new .step and .stl to Printables.
The new version requires more supports, as there are now openings on the bottom to allow access to the plug and the backlight switch.
Ill start printing one of these in the morning and see how it goes:
With supports:
Not enough space for the GPIO connector and not enough space for the backlight switch.
I fixed those issues in the model, and uploaded the new .step and .stl to Printables.
The new version requires more supports, as there are now openings on the bottom to allow access to the plug and the backlight switch.
Ill start printing one of these in the morning and see how it goes:
With supports:
Last edited:
Nice progress.
Received an email this morning. The LDO Trident Kit preordered some time ago has shipped. Soon I'll have the Trident parts that I've been collecting but haven't quite ordered the last of, plus the LDO Trident kit, and the PIF printed parts that are already here. I'm running out of excuses to build a Voron Trident 250. Eventually my plan is to have two Trident 250's. These are a bit different from the Voron 2.4 that Ken226 made in this thread in that the Trident's CoreXY Gantry is fixed at the top and the bed moves vertically on three Z leadscrews instead of essentially the reverse on the 2.4 where the bed is fixed at the bottom and the Gantry moves vertically by four belt drives. The Trident kit is a bit easier to build and should be less expensive however the cost difference is negligible. For a really large printer the bed weight grows faster than the gantry weight so the moving gantry makes sense. At 250mm build volume the Trident is a good choice.
This last weekend the Voron Design Group put out a livestream describing their latest design, called "Voron Tap". The final design documents will be released within a week or so. This is an advanced add-on to the Voron 2.4 or Trident that adds an optical switch to the printhead support carriage and allows the nozzle itself to be used to map out the Z height and surface flatness bed mesh. It is basically a new carriage that works with the mgn12 X rail and the StealthBurner toolhead. It is highly accurate and reliable and avoids all the complicated macros to pick up and park a probe like Klicky or Euclid. It avoids the temperature dependent and bed material requirement issues of the magnetic probes. Accuracy is much better than a standard motor microstep. Reliability is much higher than a small mechanical switch as used in many probes. Due to the fact that it uses the nozzle as the probe, it works with all bed material types and doesn't have offsets that are confused by frame twist, etc. It directly compensates for nozzle length and bed thickness increasing convenience of operation. It is a somewhat advanced update, and does add 45g to the toolhead mostly due to the 2" mgn9 rail that it uses to allow the toolhead to move in Z. It requires a stiff system so it does not work on bed slingers or other printers with less rigid setups as the probing force will move things enough to produce incorrect results.
Received an email this morning. The LDO Trident Kit preordered some time ago has shipped. Soon I'll have the Trident parts that I've been collecting but haven't quite ordered the last of, plus the LDO Trident kit, and the PIF printed parts that are already here. I'm running out of excuses to build a Voron Trident 250. Eventually my plan is to have two Trident 250's. These are a bit different from the Voron 2.4 that Ken226 made in this thread in that the Trident's CoreXY Gantry is fixed at the top and the bed moves vertically on three Z leadscrews instead of essentially the reverse on the 2.4 where the bed is fixed at the bottom and the Gantry moves vertically by four belt drives. The Trident kit is a bit easier to build and should be less expensive however the cost difference is negligible. For a really large printer the bed weight grows faster than the gantry weight so the moving gantry makes sense. At 250mm build volume the Trident is a good choice.
This last weekend the Voron Design Group put out a livestream describing their latest design, called "Voron Tap". The final design documents will be released within a week or so. This is an advanced add-on to the Voron 2.4 or Trident that adds an optical switch to the printhead support carriage and allows the nozzle itself to be used to map out the Z height and surface flatness bed mesh. It is basically a new carriage that works with the mgn12 X rail and the StealthBurner toolhead. It is highly accurate and reliable and avoids all the complicated macros to pick up and park a probe like Klicky or Euclid. It avoids the temperature dependent and bed material requirement issues of the magnetic probes. Accuracy is much better than a standard motor microstep. Reliability is much higher than a small mechanical switch as used in many probes. Due to the fact that it uses the nozzle as the probe, it works with all bed material types and doesn't have offsets that are confused by frame twist, etc. It directly compensates for nozzle length and bed thickness increasing convenience of operation. It is a somewhat advanced update, and does add 45g to the toolhead mostly due to the 2" mgn9 rail that it uses to allow the toolhead to move in Z. It requires a stiff system so it does not work on bed slingers or other printers with less rigid setups as the probing force will move things enough to produce incorrect results.
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
- Messages
- 1,214
My kit is scheduled for delivery Wednesday.
Ive been running my flashforge non-stop printing parts.
Unfortunately, my 5" screen housing is stalling the print process. Having had to adjust the model a few times and reprint is eating up time. Hopefully the version printing now has all the bugs worked out.