What job did you do today in your shop?

Argo cover (for the most part) finished and out doing its job:

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Feb 17, Nova Scotia, +10c and heavy rain. It feels like getting shot with a million bb’s all at once if you step outside.

Unbelievable. Just crazy weather this year. I’m beginning to wonder if I needed the snow tracks at all…..

I also found out why the lh brake/steering locks up when the temp drops below freezing. It seems water is somehow getting under the body and dripping on the tops of the two mater cylinders.

The water somehow managed to get inside the master cylinder (despite having a seal) and because the brake fluid is dot 5, it was sitting there as a big slug of water. Freezing temps would turn it into ice and lock up the master cyl piston.

So I drained the master, filled with fresh dot 5 and flushed it out to the caliper. Still need the temps to drop to make sure that was the problem.

So I’ll need to do something to shield the two master cylinders from water dripping on them. I think I’ll just make a snap on cover with a drain line and print it off in ABS on the 3D printer.
 
I would imagine that is so. Actually I know that is so owning and having operated both types of machines, although they both involve pulling and pushing levers, and paying attention. Welcome to the forum. Mike

MagdalenaFinkel said:
In contrast to other machines in the machine shop, and excavators operate differently.
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Awhile ago I bought a Jacobs 20N chuck with a 3MT arbor. The cool thing about this chuck is it opens to hold up to 1" diameter. But the MT3 taper was a bit rough, and under a good load, it would start to slip in the tailstock.

I looked up the spec on the 20N, and found it had a 5JT taper. eBay has by actual count a zillion MT3 to JT5 adapters, so for $25 or so I got one that claims 0.0003" runout one side to the other.

The JT5 side was impressively big, more than I expected, and of course it was hard to separate from the chuck. Wedges for this taper would be pretty large and I don't have any. I chucked up a 1" rod in the lathe, and chucked the 20N on to that, and parted off the old MT3. This made it easier to get the chuck held in the mill vise, and I drilled down through the body of the chuck into the old arbor. Then with just the right backing piece from the scrap collection I used a pin and the HF 20T press to push out the old arbor, which came loose with a huge pop. The new arbor fit as it should and a couple of light taps and it was seated, ready to go.

A picture makes it all clear:

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Made 30 contoured delrin adapters for a customer to allow him to convert his wine fridge from wooden shelves to metal shelves on drawer glides.
The adapters rest on an existing “ledge” in the fridge and attach with a couple countersunk sheet metal screws. Then a 6-32 button head attaches the glides to the adapter.
The only real challenge was the ledges weren’t perpendicular to the fridge wall. I had to factor in a 9 degree drop.
I made him a drilling template (not pictured) as well so his mounting locations in the fridge would line up with existing holes in the glides. Used .500” x 1.0” cold rolled to allow him to drill .105 pilot holes.
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For reasons I can’t explain I enjoy the occasional job from customers that don’t know machining. I like the challenge of trying to understand their perspective and enjoy their enthusiasm as they watch their ideas materialize.
 
First night on the nightshift after being on dayshift for 6 months or so . My co-worker has a triple bypass operation today and I'm filling in his shift for awhile .
 
I need to run .025 solid mig wire but could not find my .023/.025 drive roller for my 255 Lincoln Wire-Matic welder. I called around and was unable to come up with one and did not want to wait days for one on line. While on line I was floored by the price of the roller. It now costs $80.00 to $100.00 dollars for the roller that not to long ago was $14.00. So I spent an hour to make my own, and this is what I came up with. After I installed the new roller I am happy to say it worked, and I saved money. An original is on the left and mine is on the right. Thanks for looking.F1FA39D8-8C3D-48AE-B7F9-B4589DF6C182.jpeg
 
Charles scozzari said:
I need to run .025 solid mig wire but could not find my .023/.025 drive roller for my 255 Lincoln Wire-Matic welder. I called around and was unable to come up with one and did not want to wait days for one on line. While on line I was floored by the price of the roller. It now costs $80.00 to $100.00 dollars for the roller that not to long ago was $14.00. So I spent an hour to make my own, and this is what I came up with. After I installed the new roller I am happy to say it worked, and I saved money. An original is on the left and mine is on the right. Thanks for looking.View attachment 443750
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How did you make the keyway? Did you use a broach?
 
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