New (to me) Logan 200

[TomKro]

I'm starting to think that JB Weld is more useful than duct tape! I've used it to re-attach knurled steel pins in plastic handles, but I had no idea that it sanded OK.

I can't recall who made the suggestion, but soaking things in Pine Sol also works well. It sure saves time cleaning things up, and doesn't really smell too bad. Only down side is a thin black film, if you forget where you put your parts.

TomKro

 

[TomKro]

Bushing guidance?

One of my countershaft bushings looks like it was run dry and cooked the bushing and the end of the shaft. I have a new shaft and a few new bronze sleeve bushings.
The existing bushings have an oil slot cut into the bottom, tapered a bit to stop the oil from running out. Not quite sure if this was original setup.



Is it OK to just file a slot in the new bushings, or does it have to be something fancier?
The manual indicated "oilless bearing", but I'm wondering if I should get some Oilite bushings and not bother to cut the slots?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[TomKro]

Still making slow progress, but I finally have the countershaft bushings fit to the shaft.

It took a hydraulic press to get the bushings into the holders, and imagine my surprise when the shaft would no longer fit through the bushings.

I purchased an adjustable reamer, but that didn’t work out well. The slightest change in reamer OD caused the reamer to lock up and gouge the ID of the bushings. I’m still not sure if the bushings were too hard, the reamer too “inexpensive”, or just plain old operator error. I ended up wrapping fine sanding cloth around a ½ inch drill bit, and very slowly opened up the ID. I let the bushing holder spin slowly in one hand, while the other held the button on a battery operated hand drill. Rocking the bushing holder back and forth along the bit, and stopping to periodically clean the cloth actually worked pretty well. A little crude, but it's done.

I included a picture of the setup. If you’re one of those guys feeling sad that all you have is some itty bitty lathe, just remember that a 7 x 12 beats an old hand drill any day of the week.


As to other things...
Still painting parts. I tried rattle can Rustoleum self-etching primer for some of the small parts, and that appears to lay nice onto to the cast metal.

Having fits trying to get the pin out of the gear cover hinge. I’ve already been banging on that casting a lot harder that I should. Not sure what to try next.

Also been cutting some steel to “jack up” the bed a few inches, using 2 x 4 steel tube and angle iron between the cast legs and the feet of the bed. I’m thinking of using small pans under each bed foot, and a removable pan between the feet (sitting on the horizontal angle Iron). Still some holes to drill before I can see if it works out.

TomKro

 

[Redlineman]

Hey;

Adjustable reamers are for hogging, mostly. No the bronze is not too hard. Yes cheap tools can be trying. I broke a blade on mine the first time I turned it. Yes they can be finicky to adjust. You need patience and a light touch! Finish off with a flex hone and you have it done quickly. THAT would have been the tool for you.

Yes, the oil slots in the bushings are useful. I just used a die grinder to make them in mine recently. Yes bushings get tight when pressed into a smaller space. You can either try to compensate when you machine it, or fit it afterwards. The way calculations usually go for me, I'd chose the latter.

Not sure which pin you refer to. LA-230 on the change gear guard? You better be careful there. I can see snapping an ear of that cover real easy. Soak and soak with penetrant. Try to determine where it is stuck. Heat. Even a very small hole drilled in the casting to allow penetrant into the inside. Anything but breaking something. Post a pic.

Raising the bed is something I've been thinking about as I near reassembly. I'm 6'5"!

 

[stevecmo]

Tom,

Good to see you're making some progress. :thumbsup:

If I remember correctly that pin is knurled at the top end. It should drive out from the bottom if it was installed correctly the last time it was out.

Hope that helps and keep after it.

Steve

 

[TomKro]

Redlineman:

Bushing Issues: I had no idea that adjustable reamers were intended for deeper cuts. The blades on my reamer appeared to roll over a bit and cut deeper than I preferred, so I gave up on that route. The flex hone looks like the perfect tool. I didn’t realize they came in such small sizes (3/4 OD). My flex hone was my pinky and extra fine sandpaper. Regarding the slots – I guess I have to push those bushings back out to get the slots cut deeper from the inside where the oil feeds from. As to the bushing ID – I really should have known it would happen – it took a hydraulic press to slide them in.

Bed Height: I’m only 6’ even now – been shrinking a little. My neck is shot and I don’t want to be leaning over too much. I should gain about 3 -1/2 inches with the new rubber feet, the 3/16 thick angle, and the 4 x 2 tube lying flat under the feet of the bed. I picked up two heavier ¼ sheet aluminum pans to sit between the tube and the bed feet. Still not sure how it will work out.

Stevecmo/Redlineman: Here’s the pin.



It appears the bottom of the pin (the end without the knurl) has been hammered over a little – maybe from the last time it was put together. I still need to wrap a rag around it to soak it, and possibly file the wide bottom off the pin (?). A few heat/cool cycles should help, and maybe try the drilling trick if all else fails. I just don’t want to crack that door casting.

Many thanks for all the suggestions.
TomKro

 

[Redlineman]

Hey;

Adjustable reamers are not an exact science, and work much better on a longer bore, like a tube, I think. Live and learn... just like pressed bearing clearances! I'd not get too worried about the oil slotting. Half the thickness of the bushing or less is fine, I'd wager. As long as there is a place for oil to pool, it is good.

Keep in mind that the pin is the expendable part, if you haven't already. If you have to drill it out, so be it. You can come up with something else pretty easily. Yes, I'd imagine the problem is that the end is peined over. It's probably very soft, like 1018. You might side file it down, or end file it off flush to the bracket. A soft drift, or a bunch of small hits with a harder one will likely work. Backing up the portion the pin is coming out of against something really solid is always more than helpful in doing these extractions, of course, if a bit cumbersome often times. And... get the paint and grunge off any portion of the pin that has to slide through hole, eh?

As long as you preserve the cast housing, who cares how you get it out, eh?

 

[TomKro]

Redlineman:

Presently, I'm just letting that little pin soak. I agree with you completely, and I'm not concerned with saving the pin - just about anything would work as a hinge pin and likely look better without the exposed knurled edge. Mostly, it's just an issue of being cumbersome to hold and work on. There is a little gap between the hinge and the door, so I think I can even get the end of a hacksaw blade in there, if needed.

As to the bushings, originally I wasn't too concerned about oil travel, because each holder has two bushings (7/8 inch long at each end) leaving a pretty decent oil pool between them (~1/4" wide). Also, there sure is a lot of bearing area for a 1/2 horse motor. I may be able to reach in there with a small rotary tool bit to avoid having to push them out again.

I can't get to the Logan until this weekend. Hopefully the next pic you'll see is a painted up door casting with a fancy new pin.
Thanks,
TomKro

 

[Redlineman]

Hey;

I just made some new shaft bushings for my Prentice Gearhead. It had oil troughs in it before, and I redid them. All I had was a .250" carbide burr on a die grinder. A bit large, perhaps, but it's what I had. I'd have liked .125. Whatever, they are done and working.

 

[TomKro]

Redlineman - You're inspiring me - I'll have to find a longer cutter for my little Dremel tool. Glad to hear your bushing mods came out well.

I made some progress on the door this morning. Last night I tried a few heat/cool cycles with more penetrating oil. I even chilled the ends of the pin with ice after heating the cast "ears" of the door. Unfortunately, no luck with that.

I wanted to try to keep some pressure on the pin while applying heat. I just happen to have a short stack of 1/2 inch Belleville washers that fit over the end of the pin, so I hand drilled and tapped (1/4-20) the knurled end of the pin and used a screw and some smaller washers to crank in a little pulling tension on the pin. Upon tightening, the pin started to move. I had to assemble/disassemble the stack a few times - it was really in there tight - but the pin is finally out. I'll post a pic when I get a chance.

Take care, TomKro