2020 POTD Thread Archive

That is spectacular work! It is amazing that you did that in only three weeks. Very impressive.

Can you give us frames of reference? Height/diameter/weight/material?

Regards,
Terry
Hi Terry, The pawns are from .750" round aluminum stock. Base width is ~..745 - .740 from basic skim/clean-up cut. The rest are simple .250 steps for diameters to keep it simple. So, base = .745, next step up is .50, "neck is .250 and head is .50. Pawn height is 1.0" overall. Knight, Rook, and Bishop start out from 1.0" stock & follow same principles. Base is 0.995 +/-, next step up is .750, neck is .50, etc. overall height is 1.75". King and Queen start out as 1.0" stock. and they are 2.5" high. All made from 6061 T6 round bar stock from the local scrap yard.

Sorry, don't know the weight of any of the pieces, didn't even think of that when making them. Due to me starting wayyyyy to close to Christmas, I kept them as simple as possible in both the turning aspect and the milling (knight's head and Rook's ramparts are only milling required). Knights really needed to be better thought out, but they are at least recognizable for what they are supposed to represent.
 
Hi Terry, The pawns are from .750" round aluminum stock. Base width is ~..745 - .740 from basic skim/clean-up cut. The rest are simple .250 steps for diameters to keep it simple. So, base = .745, next step up is .50, "neck is .250 and head is .50. Pawn height is 1.0" overall. Knight, Rook, and Bishop start out from 1.0" stock & follow same principles. Base is 0.995 +/-, next step up is .750, neck is .50, etc. overall height is 1.75". King and Queen start out as 1.0" stock. and they are 2.5" high. All made from 6061 T6 round bar stock from the local scrap yard.

Sorry, don't know the weight of any of the pieces, didn't even think of that when making them. Due to me starting wayyyyy to close to Christmas, I kept them as simple as possible in both the turning aspect and the milling (knight's head and Rook's ramparts are only milling required). Knights really needed to be better thought out, but they are at least recognizable for what they are supposed to represent.
Thanks, Dave.

I had a feeling they were 6061 T6 - much lighter to handle. That is a very nice finish. Kudos.

When do plan on starting an over-the-top chess board worthy of the set?

Regards,
Terry
 
Thanks, Dave.

I had a feeling they were 6061 T6 - much lighter to handle. That is a very nice finish. Kudos.

When do plan on starting an over-the-top chess board worthy of the set?

Regards,
Terry
Grandson has already asked that!! Going to start with a fitted box (wood) for them first!

Finish has been buffed with a cloth wheel - - - I know, cheating.....
 
Grandson has already asked that!! Going to start with a fitted box (wood) for them first!

Finish has been buffed with a cloth wheel - - - I know, cheating.....
Looking forward to it.
 
Today i've noticed lots of brake dust on one wheel, feel it and is was warm, so it's sticking. Because i'm using it to get to work i put it over the inspection pit to fix it right away. The brake caliper is fine i can push the piston back by hand, i've removed the rubber brake line, even push wire thru it not clogged. Clean the pads where the brake pads slide, no problem there and it's still slightly sticking, i'm at a loss what can be causing this, also i've noticed my front tires have rolled edges on the inside and outside, any experience or knowledge is very appreciated.
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no idea on the tires, other than worn joints (deteriorated rubber bushings), but for the brake I would simply replace the hose on both sides. Sometimes they breakdown inside and can swell up with fluid present, so that although they appear to be clear off the car, when they're on the car they can prevent flow in one direction over another. Haven't had it happen to me, but I've read about it a bunch of times and that "sticking on" symptom is a classic.
 
Pistons could be getting stuck at times if worn or caliper bore worn.
 
I agree with checking the hose. Also, I would look at the caliper, its the seal that pulls the piston back, if the bore to piston clearance is too big, the seal will not pull the piston back.



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Rolled edges on tires may indicate under inflation.
I would change brake line(s) or caliper, which ever is least expensive. Make a trial run. If still dragging then change the other. But I have seen plenty of bad calipers but few bad brake lines.
Just my $0.02 worth.

Chuck
 
Rolled edges on tires may indicate under inflation.
I would change brake line(s) or caliper, which ever is least expensive. Make a trial run. If still dragging then change the other. But I have seen plenty of bad calipers but few bad brake lines.
Just my $0.02 worth.

Chuck
I'm running 3,5 bar (50 PSI) in the front tires, and i keep up on my tire pressures i may try going higher pressure. As for the brake line, i'm sure is not collapsed, you can see the wire thru it, i also managed to stretch it straight and look all they way thru it. The french at the time this vehicle was built took a lot of pride and they used good materials, i'll be installing worse rubber line then i'll be taking off. You can see the date 04 of 1996 and that line is still soft and there are no cracks in it at all, all the writing is like new. I'm leaning more to the caliper or ABS pump, this car is so heavy it never activates the abs system, perhaps there is a blockage in the pump.
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