2020 POTD Thread Archive

I saw a YouTube video on making single triangular insert dovetail cutters, looked like an interesting project. So I had some random metal around and just kind of hacked these two pieces out, one 1/2” shank and one 5/8” shank. Why different sizes? Ummm, kind of missed my target the first time, which became the 1/2”. The inserts are TCMT something or other, they were parts bin pieces. And suitable for “what did you buy today” I needed a 2.5mm tap for 5he insert screw, and found this kit of small metric taps for about $12 on eBay. They claimed HSS, and sure enough, no problem at all tapping the dovetails...one is 303 stainless, the bigger is a mystery metal. You can see a finish difference.
I tried them on aluminum, and was impressed. Seemed at least as good as the multi-fluted cutter I had around.
The cool trick I picked up from “this old Tony” I believe, was making a pointer tool to chuck up in the mill, just the diameter of the insert hole, and push the insert around in X and Y until it’s located perfectly. That’s the zero point for drilling the screw hole.1C0CA761-F8FA-456B-890E-309B78B29079.jpeg
 
After leaving the paint to harden in my slightly warm garage i masked the part of the bumper that needs to be black and sprayed it, in this garage i only have the 50l oilless compressor that i bought couple of mounts ago that has a bad pump on it, but it still makes around 2 bar and that was enough to finish the job, i used nitro base mat black paint and it covered nicely. Then i installed the headlights, changed couple of light bulbs and one of my horns then installed the freshly painted grill, license plate holder and plat itself, then the upper part of the grill and the signature Lion badge in the middle. The hood, fenders and grill had factory paint and lasted 24 years outside let's hope this paint lasts half that time.
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You do the most incredible quality work, GoceKU!
 
After seeing a build by Stefan Gotteswinter on his channel I blatantly stole some of his design and built a carbide hone.
Sorry no photos of the build, my camera phone died.
Recycled a small 1800 rpm motor from the tilting mechanism in a hospital bed. Cut away the gearbox and matted a pulley to the 1/4 gear it had for a shaft. The disk spins at 500 rpm, speed stollen from Accu-Finish.
The disks came from China via Aliexpress 800,1000 and 2000 grit at about $1.50 each plus shipping.
The aluminum backing plate has a centering hub, two drive pins and two magnets to secure the disks. Interestingly I epoxied the magnets in, the epoxy expanded as it cured, had to grind the magnets down to sit flush.
Leaves a near mirror like finish on carbide, photo doesn't show it on the old insert I tired.

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Greg
I want one so bad.
I am gathering components to build one.
I'm waiting for the motor and controller from China.
Great job!!
I\ll have to check out Steffan's channel
 
I want one so bad.
I am gathering components to build one.
I'm waiting for the motor and controller from China.
Great job!!
I'll have to check out Steffan's channel
Get ready for some good ones. His videos are Top Shelf - IMO.
His series on scraping was great.
NYCCNC just did a tour of his shop recently - that's good also.
 
After seeing a build by Stefan Gotteswinter on his channel I blatantly stole some of his design and built a carbide hone.
Sorry no photos of the build, my camera phone died.
Recycled a small 1800 rpm motor from the tilting mechanism in a hospital bed. Cut away the gearbox and matted a pulley to the 1/4 gear it had for a shaft. The disk spins at 500 rpm, speed stollen from Accu-Finish.
The disks came from China via Aliexpress 800,1000 and 2000 grit at about $1.50 each plus shipping.
The aluminum backing plate has a centering hub, two drive pins and two magnets to secure the disks. Interestingly I epoxied the magnets in, the epoxy expanded as it cured, had to grind the magnets down to sit flush.
Leaves a near mirror like finish on carbide, photo doesn't show it on the old insert I tired.

Greg
You'll have to charge up the camera and take the top cover off and get us some picts. :cool:
I want to see the motor, that'll be cool.
 
You'll have to charge up the camera and take the top cover off and get us some picts. :cool:
I want to see the motor, that'll be cool.
Popped the top today for ya.
The o-ring drive belts, was quite surprised how well they grip, with no tension on them.
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Waiting for a 0.5 uF run capacitor for the fan motor. The spindle runs on 6200 bearings mounted in aluminum housings.

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Greg
 
Popped the top today for ya.
The o-ring drive belts, was quite surprised how well they grip, with no tension on them.


Waiting for a 0.5 uF run capacitor for the fan motor. The spindle runs on 6200 bearings mounted in aluminum housings.

Greg
Mine is going to look like a hack compared to that.
 
And now we break away from all this really important progress for something that, quite frankly, seems totally useless. I'm rotating the tires on my toolbox. Boring. Actually, maddenly fristrating erm frustrating is what it is. The reason for such an excruciating endeavor? The floor. I had let bygones be bygones & ended up with quite the pile underneath. So, when I dropped the nut for my sidegrinder disc attachment, I sprang into a cleaning mode that evolved into making the toolbox casters steer from the end that was needed all along. Next comes the tool cart! As a side note, A young friend stopped by to lend a hand leveling my woodshed & found the missing nut for my sidegrinder straight away! Thinkin I might need new glasses. But, a 2 car garage gets mighty full when trying use it as a machine shop / car parts storage, so this seems necessary.

Toolbox in place for 20 years.


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At the pitstop, as it were.

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Somehow, with fewer tools & about 1000 pounds of weight lighter, this was easy to assemble when new.

Back to real projects below!
 
When I sold my old Logan, I also lost the aligning tool that lets you true up a part in the chuck before final tightening. If you have not used one of these, they quickly become indispensable. I had a couple random ball bearings and a couple of 1/2” square bar stock drops, turned a couple matching hubs, and tapped the ends of the drops. Making two, and mounting back to back in a dedicated tool holder lets me quickly true up either the face of a bigger diameter shorter part, so it is perpendicular to the spin axis, or true up a longer round bar so its axis aligns as co-linear with the spin axis.

Just bring up the bearing so it lightly touches the part and forces it to run true.

BTW I made the white Delrin knob for all my tool holders...much less fumbling around now.


:) EFD535DF-2E28-4B45-9C5B-CCE67D890A23.jpeg
 
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