Enco 110-2032 switch wiring

OK I see. Your nomenclature is throwing me off. In post #21 you mentioned "inch/jog" switches- those are the main contactors. One for forward and one for reverse. High power relays. Don't push the test buttons on both of those at the same time, fireworks will happen. It'll ruin your day.
Then what does that F/R lever on the front do? Or rather, what is it supposed to do? Is it a gear shift for the leadscrew?
 
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The last photo I sent showing the two buttons marked C-16G are what I was calling the inching/jog switches. Nothing else causes any movement of the lathe. Not the apron lever or any lever on the front panel of the lathe. Other than these two buttons the lathe is dead. I apologize for my ignorance of lathe terminology. I've never been formally trained. All I ever did was read a lot and had a friend spend a lot of time showing me how to operate this lathe. He owns a well drilling company and used his lathes for turning and threading. That's about all I ever learned on this lathe and it's been years since I used it. Turning and external threading is all I desire to do with this lathe. I really don't know the purpose of all the front levers. If I can get the lathe to run I've got another friend coming over to help me re learn simple lathe operation. I do have a newer mini lathe that I use occasionally but I have a manual!! And youtube is full of information on this mini lathe.
I also have two milling machines I use a lot.
Thanks Danny
 
I hear ya. Looks like the main contactor circuits are working, it's the lower half of the diagram that needs troubleshooting.
I found some pictures online that should help me reverse-engineer the circuit, I'll keep working on it and let you know. There is a little fuse in there
have you checked it's ok?
In the mean time, see if you can get your meter to work on ohms so you can check continuity. There is a battery inside the meter for that
function- it may be dead and corroded- check it out. You can also find cheap Radio Shack meters on Ebay. Old fashioned needle type meters are
fine for this kind of stuff.
I'm guessing the front F/R lever is for leadscrew direction.
-M
 
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PS:
The fuse is fine. The old one is clean yet for fun I replaced it with a new one when I first started trying to use the lathe. The fuse must be ok because the temporary switches work. I believe the are powered through the fuse from what I can see.
 
If you mean the contactors, no they are not fused directly. When you push the test buttons instead of the coil pulling them, you are physically forcing the contacts together to run the motor.
The fuse is for the low voltage 24v stuff which we are trying to fix
 
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Pushing contactor causes motor run so problem is control.

Read cheap fix with lots of work.

With your ohm meter Chek every switch.

That little omron relay may have bad contact and result in no operation, we have a few bad ones.

You need to start at the end and work to opposite end.

You have a string of Christmas lights that are dead, need to find the bad one.

Looks like many wires are numbered so good.

Start with a notepad, pencil and voltmeter.

Check and confirm 24 vac at transformer.

Leave one wire of voltmeter attached to the transformer and on your notepad make notes, any wire numbers or switches.

Use other meter lead to FOLLOW the voltage.

See where the wire goes and confirm voltage.

Whatever it connects to confirm it works.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
I'm attempting to reverse-engineer the schematic for his machine- This may be a first if I am successful
 
Just got my multi meter in yesterday.
I can begin to measure. Unless someone has a schematic I'll draw one as I check for voltage and continuity.
Thanks Danny
 
Hi there, I'll make a short list of tests you can do
-Mark
First, test your switch with the meter set to ohms (any range will work if it's not autoranging)
Check it in all 3 positions and write down which terminals connect in each position
Post your results here, then I'll have you do a couple tests on the control box
 
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