Enco 110-2032 switch wiring

OK understood. You mentioned someone "playing around in there" so that might explain it. There may be a wire added somewhere.
But--- as long as the E-stop isn't compromised and still stops the machine then you are ok.

You need to spend a couple minutes and beep out the barrel switch- do that, and then we can wrap this up
Just find one pair of terminals that connects only in forward (apron lever up) and one other pair that connects only in reverse (lever down). Let me know
 
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Try 1 and 2 for first pair and 3 and 4 for the second pair
If that looks workable then jump 1 and 3 together and connect those to wire 6
connect 2 to wire 4
connect 4 to wire 5
 
This morning the 4/6 & 5/6 connections did nothing. The temp F/R buttons still work.
Tested the fuse and it shows ok.
Checked all other voltages at transformer and #6 wire. The #6 wire shows 24V from the trans former to the barrel switch. Connected 3/6 and nothing happened. No click, no light in Ormon relay.
My shop has considerable temp variations (currently cold).
I'm beginning to think the Omron has become defective.
I have checked and the Omron in this lathe is available and not terribly expensive.
Going to order one just in case if this sounds feasible to you.

Also the Barrel switch:
Forward is position 6/5
Reverse is position 1/2

Hope I'm not driving you crazy.
Also there is very little slack in the barrel switch wires where I've been testing and I could have accidentally put voltage where it didn't need to go and damaged the Omron.
Thanks Danny
 
You could pull out the relay and test the coil with your meter- save buying one if it's still good- the footprint is posted with my diagram (post 42)
No combination of touching the wires 3,4,5 and 6 should hurt anything.
I think we still have an undiagnosed bad connection in there- since you have a new meter we might as well track it down
tomorrow. The 3 and 6 start function needs revisiting- it's flakey
I actually enjoy this believe it or not- but we could have shaved about 20 posts if we had gone about it differently
 
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Power down the lathe (turn off breaker or unplug)
Pull out the little fuse
Measure continuity between #1 and #3 on the big terminal strip
 
The reading in ohms was Zero for Connection at terminal #1 and #3. Fuse in or out.
Also for fun I checked the Omron.
Same thing, no continuity in opposing connections.
I think I hate the Omron. Also checked both sides of the Omron by rotating the leads on the multi meter.
The only way I could show continuity was position #1 and #6 . You can see a metallic link and that's what it's reading.
 
Hold on- Zero ohms and no continuity are opposites. Zero ohms would be when you short the meter leads together
No continuity would be if they are apart (open circuit or infinite ohms)
What ohm reading are you getting for the relay coil? No continuity at all? A good MY2N would measure about 400 to 600 ohms
And the measurement from #1 to #3 should be a short- zero ohms if the E-stop is not pushed in
 
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Forgive me for my misuse of terminology. I assumed if two points resulted in a zero ohms there was no connection. IE: no resistance = zero ohms..
This is what I meant by "no continuity".
Let me look at my multi meter' s instructions.
So for I never looked at them.
I'll remeasure after I make sure I'm taking the readings properly.
I spent years at the old GTE company designing copper cable and ohms and db loss were critical. I designed but never actually took measurements.
Then fiber came along and all that went away in the fiber world.
Ok I'm going to be gone for a few days. I'll be back this Saturday.
Feel free to text but I'll be away from the lathe.
I apologize for my confused old brain ball.
Thanks Danny
 
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