Next project: Craftsman 101.07301 6" lathe

[LX Kid]

Ordered new chuck and back plate. Just waiting on chuck to arrive. Now I have to get my lathe back up and running so I can face the back plate to fit the new chuck.

Started to reverse lay shaft and motor. Had I remembered that I would have to remove back gear and spindle shafts I probably would have left it as was. Already started the work now though. Gonna check and see if I can buy one of those take apart belts which I "think" they call an alligator belt. Can someone tell me the diameter of the motor pulley?

 

[LX Kid]

Going thru a junk box I found this four groove pulley. Problem is it's for a 5/8" shaft and my motor is 1/2" shaft. I just ordered a steel adapter bushing going from 5/8" down to 1/2" shaft. This will be much better than that large pulley I now have on the motor.

 

[wa5cab]

Kid,

The common name for the emergency repair belts is "Link Belt". I think that you are making a mistake in mounting the countershaft behind the motor. To begin with, that isn't the way that Atlas did it. Second, the spindle belt will have to be about three times as long as it currently is. Which is bad for several reasons. Regardless of what type belt you use (and the link belt is not the best choice), the longer the belt, the more vibration you will get from it. And the more it will cost. Plus, the belt tensioning mechanism must slacken both belts at the same time. It was designed to do that when mounted between the motor and the lathe.

 

[LX Kid]

Problem is right now, the way I have it, the lay shaft does nothing because disengaging does nothing because it tensions motor and layshaft with no release! I have been using the power switch for emergency and just rolling belt over to other pulley grooves. Without "buying" a proper motor mount, that works in conjunction with the layshaft, I'd have to spend another couple hundred bucks to buy it. With the new parts recently order I now have around $1700 in the lathe. On a good day it's probably only worth about $1200. It's kinda like making "chicken salad using "chicken s**t." Maybe if I get too much belt vibration I could add an idler pulley.

 

[Garryloy]

Problem is right now, the way I have it, the lay shaft does nothing because disengaging does nothing because it tensions motor and layshaft with no release! I have been using the power switch for emergency and just rolling belt over to other pulley grooves. Without "buying" a proper motor mount, that works in conjunction with the layshaft, I'd have to spend another couple hundred bucks to buy it. With the new parts recently order I now have around $1700 in the lathe. On a good day it's probably only worth about $1200. It's kinda like making "chicken salad using "chicken s**t." Maybe if I get too much belt vibration I could add an idler pulley.

As promised, here are the belt and pulley sizes on my 618 lathe:
Motor pulley --- two steps --- OD 1.65" and 3.23"
Jackshaft pulley --- two steps --- OD 4.45" and 3.21"
All pulleys measure 0.320" inside at OD
Motor belt 31.25"
Spindle belt 21.0"
Belts measure 0.375" wide

 

[LX Kid]

Thank you very much for the measurements!

My chuck arrived this evening so I put my lathe motor and jackshaft back the way it was. Faced aced the back plate for the new chuck. Wow what a difference a new chuck makes. Guess the old chuck was about 75 or 80 years old so it was about time. I stumbled across the saddle lock and and some other missing parts in a box, In the box were also the 3 reversing gears and back gear which I had to buy from Clausing last year.

 

[LX Kid]

FYI the bushings are sintered bronze (AKA Oilite), not solid brass. They should come pre-filled with oil and you do not need to add a hole in them to let the oil from the cups (SAE 20 or ISO 68 ND) through. That is the second mistake that many make.

The is the second of the two things you warned me about being a mistake. When I put the new bushings in I forgot what you told me and drilled it for oiling. Is this a bad thing? I have been oiling it often.

 

[wa5cab]

The main downside to having drilled an "Oil" hole through a sintered bronze bushing is that in order to always keep oil in the cup, you will have to frequently add oil. And of course, it will sling oil badly if you keep oil in the cup.

However, to correct the error will not cost you two more new bushings. With a scribe or jewelers file, make a visible mark on one end of each bushing in line with the oil hole. Fully loosen the the clamping screws that are tightened to clamp the bushing in place. Whether or not you will have to partially remove the spindle from the headstock depends upon how much spring there is in the two split journals, but rotate the bushings until the holes are at the 10:00 to 11:00 or 01:00 to 02:00 o'clock positions. And then reassemble whatever of the gears and pulley you had to disturb in order to rotate the bushings. Finish by re-tightening the screws. And unlike on the Atlas 612 or 618 or Craftsman 101.21400, do NOT add the low density felt plug to the oil cups. Keep the oil cups at least half full (whenever you DO add oil, of course fill the cup).

 

[LX Kid]

I think I've figured out a way to work around a motor mount assembly. In the picture you see an "X" marking the spot where I could put a hand operated idler pulley, with a longer belt, that would disengage the motor from the layshaft pulley. Once loosened the belt on the layshaft to gearhead could be adjusted. This seems to be the cheapest way for me to go without spending a whole lot of money. New chuck really works well.

 

[LX Kid]

One thing and it will be a quick fix , the lathe's risers (feet) you have reversed . The Atlas / Craftsman 6" had a 3 point mount , where as the 618 had a 4 point mount . IMO the 3 point mount was a very good idea . You can't get bed twist with a 3 point mount .
Mark .

Thanks for calling attention to the fact I have the feet reversed. I noticed the gear head rigedity is not so good with only having one screw to hold it in place. Well live and learn. Try and get them on properly tomorrow if I get a chance. Thanks again, Ron