Saving a Logan 825

[Nogoingback]

I finished a dial recently and did it the same way as you did, but yours came out better looking than mine.

 

[bhusted]

I finished a dial recently and did it the same way as you did, but yours came out better looking than mine.

What part didn't come out right? There isn't really anything super fancy or special about my setup.

 

[Nogoingback]

My dial came out fine, but yours just looks a little nicer. Your line width looks slightly narrower than mine. What DOC
did you use when cutting the lines.

 

[bhusted]

Wait for me to screw up stamping the numbers before we compare dials...

For the DOC I went .010 and then turned a few thousandths off the OD to clean up the burrs from scribing. Did you use carbide or HSS?

 

[Nogoingback]

Wait for me to screw up stamping the numbers before we compare dials...

For the DOC I went .010 and then turned a few thousandths off the OD to clean up the burrs from scribing. Did you use carbide or HSS?

I used carbide (because I had them), but next time I would use HSS. I broke the tip on the carbide tool backing out after a pass, so after that I had to retract the tool each time.

I can see why your lines look so good with the clean up pass you made. I used a very fine foam backed sanding
pad that I use to polish up parts. They create a better suface finish, but they don't really remove any material to speak of.

 

[bhusted]

I used carbide (because I had them), but next time I would use HSS. I broke the tip on the carbide tool backing out after a pass, so after that I had to retract the tool each time.

I can see why your lines look so good with the clean up pass you made. I used a very fine foam backed sanding
pad that I use to polish up parts. They create a better suface finish, but they don't really remove any material to speak of.

I used a carbide tool and haven't had any trouble with chipping the insert making dials like these. Don't think I've indexed the insert since doing the original dial, so it's done 3 dials, and several threading jobs. Retracting the tool probably makes it difficult to get a consistant marking depth. Once I set the depth, I lock the cross-slide by tightening down on one of the gib screws. I made a quick little arbor to mount the dial on for my cleanup of the OD and the back face. I'd recommend trying that.

 

[Nogoingback]

Retracting the tool wasn't my preferred option, but actually I chipped the tips twice. They were cemented carbide tools. At that point,
retracting the tool seemed like the best option since I was running out of tools. I actually think the marking depth worked out pretty
well, but of course the next time will go better. This was the first time I had done this job. I'll plan on an OD cleanup pass next time.

 

[AmericanMachinist]

The dials look really great!

The cleanup pass is smart. I wonder if the lines would be further accentuated by applying cold blue prior to the cleanup pass.

I look forward to seeing the number stamping process.

 

[eeler1]

Just checking in, after several months. Progress is looking good. Always a tough choice, buy new and start making chips, or get an old machine and restore it. One plus for doing all this work is that you now know that machine intimately and how all these components work.

 

[bhusted]

Not a lot of progress to report, but I've been still working on the Logan on and off as my new work schedule will allow. One thing that I did find while setting it up on the test stand is that I have an issue with the toolpost. Since this is my second lathe, it has always been my intent to repair it and then decide to sell one. I mounted an import AXA toolpost on the Logan and found that I could not bring the tool low enough to get it on center. The picture below is taken with the toolholder resting on top of the compound. For the turning tools, the difference is 0.075-0.080, but the grooving tool is more than 0.125" too high.

There are a couple of options as I see it, but wanted to hear from others on the best course of action.

• Move to 3/8" tools. Most of the insert tooling I have is 1/2" so I'd have to replace it
• Mill off some of the bottom of the tool shank to bring it low enough to be on center.
• Mill off some of the top or bottom of the compound.
• Replace the compond with a solid block at the proper height. I don't cut a lot of tapers where I need the compound, but I do prefer the method of using the compound when threading.
• Anything else I'm not thinking of?

Thanks for any help or wisdom.